Painting the interior?

[BeeKool]

I got some POR15. And some seam sealer.
Before I start I have a few questions.
1. I found some places where it looks like it would be a good idea to put some seam sealer on before I paint. How long does it need to cure before I paint over it?

2. Im guessing I should just paint over the body plugs. They are likely old and brittle. Is that the correct thing to do?

3. How far back do I paint? Into the trunk or stop before then?

 

[flypaper]

i kinda like you,so here is some friendly and good advice..
throw the por 15 in the garbage!
that is where it belongs
if i wasn't able to sand blast away that rust,
i would get a big wire wheel on a angle grinder (not some candy *** bull crap on a drill)
hit that rust as best as i can with it.(you might even chew up a wheel or 2)
(use goggles.you will be like a porcupine with the metal flying off the wheel)
then treat it with phosphoric acid (you can get it at homies depot)
that will kill all your rust
and then top it with epoxy primer.
if you don't have a spray gun,eastwood sells it in spray bomb.
putting por 15 over it is just hiding the problem and
it will still be festering underneath that crap.

 

[flypaper]

don't paint the body plugs
they are very pliable if you get a hair dryer on them
to soften them up,then they will come right out

 

[BeeKool]

don't paint the body plugs
they are very pliable if you get a hair dryer on them
to soften them up,then they will come right out

The rust is only minor surface rust. I have some rust killer and got some grey primer. I'm not sure which if I will use the primer or the POR15 will probably be a decision later today. I will try to remove the plugs. Instead of painting over them.

 

[Mike67]

I'm not sure why people bash POR15, I think the stuff is amazing.
It is very hard to remove later but that is the on drawback that I see...I'm going to be using it on mine....

 

[BeeKool]

I'm not sure why people bash POR15, I think the stuff is amazing.
It is very hard to remove later but that is the on drawback that I see...I'm going to be using it on mine....

I think I'm going to use the POR15 it will preserve the floorpan on the inside just like the rubber undercoating preserved the outside

 

[Mike67]

Just clean it as good as you can ...go to town!. Wear 2-3 pairs of gloves!

 

[BeeKool]

Wire brushed and wire brushed and vacumnEd and cleaned the floorpan with this stuff. It works really good, but be careful because it's hard on the lungs.

Then I applied some rust killer, (probably not necessary but why not?) And reapplied some seam sealer because cleaning the floor made most of the original come up.

The rust neutralizer dried to a dark translucent color. I forgot to take pictures but it is looking like a good foundation. Tomorrow after work I will apply the POR15.

 

[Mike67]

Busch light???? I thought Iowa was Natty territory???

 

[BeeKool]

Busch light???? I thought Iowa was Natty territory???

Lol. I prefer Heineken or Old Mill heavy but I'm trying lose a few pounds. So 3 beers per night while I work on the car.

 

[BeeKool]

Got the front part of the floor pan painted with POR15 up to the firewall tonight. Tomorrow I will do back to the trunk and up the firewall.
Like the stuff so far.

 

[Z-Man]

View attachment 396381
Got the front part of the floor pan painted with POR15 up to the firewall tonight. Tomorrow I will do back to the trunk and up the firewall.
Like the stuff so far.

Bee Cool, I used Por15 many years ago with rust neutralized. It worked great for me. I'm sure people have different results. The piece of metal I did Sat out in rain for about 5 yrs. Still looked the same shiny black. Hope I could help. Don't cover the plugs.

 

[BeeKool]

Don't cover the plugs.

Plugs are removed.

 

[Mike67]

One of the things I liked about it was the self leveling characteristic. I did the rear end on the mustang with $0.79 brush and the thing looks like its powder coated! Very smooth and very even...
Looks good BC!

 

[Superb Bee]

I used to be a por15 fan boy, and I say it still works really nice, but it isn't the best thing out there nor is it the best price.
Get a gallon of rust bullet and the rust bullet sprayer with the converter in it, rinse it, wire brush it, spray it again for good emasure, rince it, and then coat it with the rust bullet paint, then you can sand that and lay color right on top of it.
Its like $200 for the converter and a gallon of the paint, but it goes a lot further than por15, I have used both and rb is the product to use..

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Bullet-...rd_wg=dnHVN&psc=1&refRID=3ABXFEZJCJ0B0FPXEXFW

 

[BeeKool]

It's not too bad.
The POR15 cleaner and POR15, a tube of seam sealer and a box of 50 rubber gloves was $94
I looked for Rust Bullet. Parts store didn't have it. Given all that Ivery already invested what's $94.

 

[Superb Bee]

It's not too bad.
The POR15 cleaner and POR15, a tube of seam sealer and a box of 50 rubber gloves was $94
I looked for Rust Bullet. Parts store didn't have it. Given all that Ivery already invested what's $94.

was that a gallon of por15? I thought it was much more expensive than that, it used to be.

I have a few gallons of the metal blast (I buy the 5 gal pails and pour it in the sprayer), and I have some of the automotive paint.
My practice for the trunk, underneath, engine bay, and passenger compartment, , spray and scrub it clean with the metal blast, then one last time with the metal blast, and rinse with hot water.
Then let it dry very well, and spray it with the rust bullet coating, 3-4 coats (a gallon will do 4 coats on the bottom, trunk, interior, and engine bay of a b-body) (test it with a glove, if you can touch it and the glove has no color, put your next coat), I thin the rust bullet with xylene and spray it with a 1.8 tip hvlp gun. Then I let that set for a few days to a week (normally work on them on the weekends), then spray it down with water and just a fast wet send with some 600 on a block, it takes me alone 3-4 hours to do all the surfaces, just a quick job, no need to get nuts about it. Rinse it and dry it well, tack cloth it all and then single stage urethane right over the top of it, 2-3 coats and the car is jammed up and ready for assembly when all that dries.

I know you are doing it your way but I figured I would give me experience and methods incase anyone reading this is interested. the POR 15 will work just as well I am sure, and you are saving some time brushing it on.

 

[BeeKool]

It's a bit thicker. I will look over good tonight and see if it needs another coat.

I question if painters tape will hold the stuff back. I don't want POR15 going through the holes of the inner firewall into the engine bay.

 

[Superb Bee]

I have done it, use a good tape an use a felt squeegee to make sure it stuck in there, do around all the holes first, then paint the bulk of it. wont be an issue.

 

[BeeKool]

Finished painting the interior. Painted as far as I could up the firewall back to the trunk.

Despite it being 45 degrees outside I still built a nice fire and got the shop heated up to 70 degrees.

Should help the POR15 on the floorpan as well as the heater box housings that I rattle cannes dry nicely.

Tomorrow the MC/Booster go back in.