ddpsnake
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This kick down came off my 318 2bb,will it work with the 4bb holley I plan on using,. Never had that befor so un sure.71 Satellite.
kick down Question.
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PurpleBeeper
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Which Holley? Somebody here knows. I suppose all that matters is how the "slot" fits vs. the throttle lever on the carb. IF they're the same "throw" (movement distance forward & backward) AND in the same location (the slot arm) relative to the carburetor's throttle, then YES.
Otherwise, I think you'd have to
a. modify the bracket to move the whole kickdown forward/backward as needed
b. change the slot to make it longer....say by cutting the slot in half & welding in a couple rods or something (top/bottom of slot) to make the slot longer (in the front)
c. grind more metal out at the back of the "slot arm" to make the slot longer (in the back).
Not knowing any better, I would want to see:
a. how the throttle lever of the 318 2bbl. carb fit into the slot arm.
b. how far forward & backward the 318 2bb. throttle moved inside that slot.
c. duplicate that same "relative action" with the 4 bbl. Holley
I'm SURE someone on this site has done exactly what you're doing & knows better than I do.
Otherwise, I think you'd have to
a. modify the bracket to move the whole kickdown forward/backward as needed
b. change the slot to make it longer....say by cutting the slot in half & welding in a couple rods or something (top/bottom of slot) to make the slot longer (in the front)
c. grind more metal out at the back of the "slot arm" to make the slot longer (in the back).
Not knowing any better, I would want to see:
a. how the throttle lever of the 318 2bbl. carb fit into the slot arm.
b. how far forward & backward the 318 2bb. throttle moved inside that slot.
c. duplicate that same "relative action" with the 4 bbl. Holley
I'm SURE someone on this site has done exactly what you're doing & knows better than I do.
PurpleBeeper
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Hey Kerndog, it sounds like you've tried this before.... what exactly didn't line up or work right?
PurpleBeeper
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Just looking at the picture, the bottom/left (blue) piece that bolts onto the intake will probably bolt up to the 4 bbl. intake (or only take a slight modification to bolt up). The transmission is in the same spot, so the long arm going down to the transmission should be usable. That leaves me "thinking" that you'd just have to modify the "slot arm" and/or that little rod that attaches near it with the cotter pin in the end. OR...am I completely dreaming?
And don't drive without it.
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I was short with my answer....
The throttle lever on a 2 barrel carb is further to the firewall since the 2 barrels sit almost in the middle of the engine. The throttle lever on every 4 barrel engine that I have seen is further forward by at least 1 to 1.25 inches. You can sometimes weld an extension on the stock 2 barrel KD rod but what really matters is that as the carburetor is at WOT, the KD linkage is also at the end of its travel. The lever on the transmission for this has a section of travel that has almost no resistance to it. This portion has little to no effect of the kickdown function. It is during the point where there is resistance that the transmission upshift points, downshift points and line pressure are controlled.
Driving without it connected means that the transmission functions on its base idle transmission settings and pressure. Imagine revving the engine to 6000 rpms with only 15 lbs of oil pressure...it won't run very long like that!
ddpsnake
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I do not plan on driving with out it.This kind of set up is new to me.I may as well try to find the 340 set up.Thanks for the help as usual.
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It wouldn't be a bad idea to consult a service manual or some aftermarket repair book. Some of them are pretty good in explaining how it works and will/should shed some light on how the KD rod should be adjusted. There are also aftermarket setups too that work good from what I've read.
JG1966
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I just made a swap to a Holley 750 DP on a 340 72 RR with a one piece that looks a lot like that, but the rod that goes to tranny lever looks shorter on yours than on mine. It took me some tinkering, bending and fabricating, but I got it right. Unless you use a cable, you will almost certainly need the Holley throttle lever part no. 20-7. I had to use a nut and bolt on the slot at the carb to increase rear travel to get throttle to move tranny lever all the way back at WOT. My slotted arm was not threaded or adjustable and that made it tricky. It's not ideal, obviously, but it works. Also, If you look at the adjuster "box" down at the tranny -- I'm not sure if yours has this -- I had to grind off the round stopper (still seen in photo) and thin the rod so I could get about 1/4 inch more movement of the box toward front of car. That allowed me to attach right at the point where you start to feel some pressure on tranny lever.
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ddpsnake
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JG1966 Thanks for the help,I do have the holley leaver on my 600,my set up looks a little like yours,but it has the clip at the end,no box for adjustment,there is an adjustment at the top with a slot.
Triple Black 73
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I had to swap the 2bb linkage with the 4bb when I got my Charger back from Alabama because there wasn't enough movement or throw for the linkage to kick down a gear. The 2bb linkage was hitting the engine and the firewall. The 4bb just dropped in place prefectly.
I would recommend getting a cable kickdown for $30:
https://www.summitracing.com/ga/parts/sum-200034
I would recommend getting a cable kickdown for $30:
https://www.summitracing.com/ga/parts/sum-200034
ddpsnake
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Well i have thought of it,but can someone shed any light as to how it work out for you.
Triple Black 73
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I already had the 4bbl linkage. My dad installed the 2bbl linkage (for reasons unknown) and threw the 4bbl link in the trunk. I swapped it the first weekend I could drive the car on the street legally as I quickly noticed it wasn't shifting down at WOT.
The cable I posted is a lot simpler to install to a Holly as the original linkage was design for thermo-quads.
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Do your self a favor and go to ebay, search for 727 transmission kickdown cable, and buy one of the Lokar-style setups. They work great, cost about $30, and will save you hours of aggravation.
ddpsnake
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Well,its been some time since I work on the kick down adjustment,so with the engine on the stand i did some frig-en with it.As you can see I was able to use what I have.There is some adjustment with the slider don't know if thats whats its called,and some at the rod.The carb still has to be rebuilt,and linkages detailed.Thanks for all the help. Cheers.
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Is that a nut behind the throttle shaft on the 'slider'? The kickdown linkage has to move at the same time the throttle moves and needs to be able to not interfere with full throttle either. Aftermarket setups are not covered in repair manuals but there's enough info in them to get you going on the right track....
ddpsnake
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The slider moves freely,it does move the same time.When your on a tight budget you use what you can.Thanks for looking.
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