Ammeter ?

[Nacho-RT74]

small red ones are for the key in buzzer which is an acc on the car not part of the ign system... must be removed from original switch plug and added into the new ign switch plug ( no particular order ). They are red into column but black on dash harness ( at least on mine ).

Black on ign switch... I never have known what is for on ign switch, but sure you don't need it. New ign switch should get instructions sheet... Once I got to save a pic of the instructions sheet of that ign switch setup on the web but is incomplete. It states every setup existant and what is needed to make on that replacement switch to match it with your car

I think you can cut it from the very end of the wire at ign switch end and rmov the full wire or simply remove and isolate the terminal from plug ( you choose ) and replace that cavity on plug with your existant orange wire setup for the shifter lettering.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

This is the kind of instruction sheet it should get

We need to find what it says the Note where it says SEE NOTE on diagram LOL

 

[Moparfiend]

This is the kind of instruction sheet it should get

View attachment 553868

We need to find what it says the Note where it says SEE NOTE on diagram LOL

You da man Nacho lol. Yup it would be nice if they sent me along some paper work but you know how expensive paper is these days.....I will isolate and shrink wrap the black wire and insert the orange one. Then I will hook up the two red buzzer wires.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

This is the ign key sensor which got the two red wires. You should be able to see that white piece just right down the cylinder

 

[Moparfiend]

This is the kind of instruction sheet it should get

View attachment 553868

We need to find what it says the Note where it says SEE NOTE on diagram LOL

You da man Nacho lol. Yup it would be nice if they sent me along some paper work but you know how expensive paper is these days.....I will shrink wrap the black wire and insert the orange one. Then I will hook up the two red buzzer wires.

This is the ign key sensor which got the two red wires. You should be able to see that white piece just right down the cylinder

View attachment 553924

View attachment 553925

Thanks yes I carefully removed the old ignition sensor wires and orange wire from the old connector by cutting away the plastic molex connector material such that I did not bend the metal contact.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

The later factory replacement ignition switches (3747092) are designed to cover quite a few years of production. The original Molex style terminals can’t handle the heavier current loads on the later accessory loaded cars. Very common to see the large red and large black wire Molex terminals over heated, sometimes destroying the connectors. The factory by-passed these connections in favor of Packard style terminals on some later models. The replacement switch supplies those terminals for that application, with instructions on how to modify. The instructions also describe the small black wire in the cavity #6 position. This wire goes to ground while cranking, again for a later model application. As mentioned, needs to be removed from the connector and the gear shift indicator lamp wire (orange) needs to go there if so equipped.

I replace the ignition switch Molex connectors on my projects with Anderson Powerpole connectors.

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors

BTW, you can get a removal tool to remove the Molex terminals from the connectors without having to destroy the connector should that be necessary.

Did mention in post #97 that the locking plate sleeve needed to be removed to get access to the roll pin on the locking plate. Sleeve is there to prevent the roll pin for dislodging and locking up the steering while the car is moving, be sure it gets back on.

 

[Moparfiend]

The later factory replacement ignition switches (3747092) are designed to cover quite a few years of production. The original Molex style terminals can’t handle the heavier current loads on the later accessory loaded cars. Very common to see the large red and large black wire Molex terminals over heated, sometimes destroying the connectors. The factory by-passed these connections in favor of Packard style terminals on some later models. The replacement switch supplies those terminals for that application, with instructions on how to modify. The instructions also describe the small black wire in the cavity #8 position. This wire goes to ground while cranking, again for a later model application. As mentioned, needs to be removed from the connector and the gear shift indicator lamp wire (orange) needs to go there if so equipped.

I replace the ignition switch Molex connectors on my projects with Anderson Powerpole connectors.

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors

BTW, you can get a removal tool to remove the Molex terminals from the connectors without having to destroy the connector should that be necessary.

Did mention in post #97 that the locking plate sleeve needed to be removed to get access to the roll pin on the locking plate. Sleeve is there to prevent the roll pin for dislodging and locking up the steering while the car is moving, be sure it gets back on.

THanks for that great information 72RR! Yes I guess I missed the roll pin info on your post. Thanks again for your continued interest and support on this thread!!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The replacement switch supplies those terminals for that application, with instructions on how to modify. The instructions also describe the small black wire in the cavity #8 position. This wire goes to ground while cranking, again for a later model application. As mentioned, needs to be removed from the connector and the gear shift indicator lamp wire (orange) needs to go there if so equipped.

finally somebody clears me up that!!! so, is ground??!! would like to get an instruction sheet pic of those just for future references. Shame the pic I got doesn't show that

. As mentioned, needs to be removed from the connector and the gear shift indicator lamp wire (orange) needs to go there if so equipped.

actually needs to be removed having or not the shifter lettering light ( column shifter or floor shifter ), because underdash harness allways carries the orange wire on our cars... if not, will get a short if lights are on and you are cranking... if like you said is just grounding while cranking

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

finally somebody clears me up that!!! so, is ground??!! would like to get an instruction sheet pic of those just for future references. Shame the pic I got doesn't show that



actually needs to be removed having or not the shifter lettering light ( column shifter or floor shifter ), because underdash harness allways carries the orange wire on our cars... if not, will get a short if lights are on and you are cranking... if like you said is just grounding while cranking

Let me add some punctuation to make it more clear;

“As mentioned, needs to be removed from the connector. (period, all earlier vehicles having an orange wire in cavity #6 on the dash harness side of the connector) and the gear shift indicator lamp wire (orange) needs to go there if so equipped.”

Yes, if left in place on an earlier car, it will short out the dash illumination circuit the first time the lights are on and the switch is moved to the crank position.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

right click... save! LOL

Being OFF topic:

I'm wondering why some around car would need a cranking stage trigger ground ? what device will get that source ?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

The Chrysler Imperial wiring diagrams show that small black wire is connected to the brake warning light circuit and the “Wheel Slip Control System”, early version of ABS. I believe the intent is to verify the brake warning light function at start up, as the brake warning light was used by the WSCS, or “Sure Brake” as it is also described in the service manual, to alert drivers of its operational status or lack there of.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I’m thinking a signal like that on cranking stage could be used for some kind of alarm or antitheft system

Mmmmm... Brain cranking!!!

 

[Moparfiend]

Happy New Year guys!

Getting close. I now have the ignition switch pulled through the column. I removed the black wire and installed the orange trans lettering light. Then I added the teo red key buzzer wires on the last two slots.

I plan to try and start the car with the switch not mounted to make sure all is good this way first.

One question, I need to wire my electric choke to a switched clean 12V source. Any recommendations for hooking her up?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Ignition 1, dark blue wire in the engine harness, at the ballast resistor or at the alternator.

 

[Moparfiend]

Yes Ignition 1 is what I was after thanks!

 

[Moparfiend]

Ignition 1, dark blue wire in the engine harness, at the ballast resistor or at the alternator.

Hi 72RR sorry I know this has been covered a zillion times but I want to make sure I understand this completely.

The balast resistor is an easy place to tie in so thats good. I can use a double spade.

However looking at this more closely are you referring to the regulator output node? The regulator is set to 12V from the alternator output correct? This would be the resistor feed to the coil when not cranking correct?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Assuming your charging system is stock for a ’70, you have an isolated field alternator, two smaller field wires at the alt. Regulator controls alt output on the green wire, varying the ground. The blue wire at the alt is Ignition 1, the same circuit as the blue wires at the regulator and ballast resistor. The aftermarket electric choke heaters don’t pull a lot of current, less than 500ma. Can be connected to the blue wire, pretty much at any point.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Hi 72RR sorry I know this has been covered a zillion times but I want to make sure I understand this completely.

The balast resistor is an easy place to tie in so thats good. I can use a double spade.

However looking at this more closely are you referring to the regulator output node? The regulator is set to 12V from the alternator output correct? This would be the resistor feed to the coil when not cranking correct?

Since 70, the coil feed was brown to not get confused with the elect reg positive feed what also feeds the alt field. Changing the coil wire to brown from the earlier blue wire setup won't make the confusion of get two blue wires on engine harness to diff purpouses. Mech reg/one field alts setup from previous years doesn't get the field blue wire so the only blue wire on these was for the coil.

The reg blue wire is just for turn on the reg and sensing voltage, not anymore to feed the alt field FROM regulator like on previous years. The regulated source from reg is now the negative field, taken from chassis by reg and feeded through the green wire up to alt


in one image... this is how it was made on 73 and lates since the choke control unit was standard on these.

Any blue wire on engine harness is JUST the ign 1 netwire, and is PRE ballast.
Then on engine bay the only extra blue wire you'll find is the feed for the AC compressor clutch.

 

[Moparfiend]

I am still not 100% understanding what my options are for the electric choke. My wires to the alternator are in bad shape so I can’t tell color wise what feild F is what. The both now look black.

In addition the choke needs 12V and the way I understand the start circuit is that it bypasses the dropping resistor by supplying 12V to the brown wire directly to the coil. Such that there is no voltage drop to the coil during starting.
Then once the starting sequence is over 12 V to the coil is supplied through the regulator and dropping resistor there by dropping the voltage to approximately 9V.

So some of my questions are:
1. Is the regulator in 9.6 V regulator or a 12 V regulator?
2. The connection to the choke should always be 12 V therefore being connected to the coil side of the circuit. But I think this is incorrect and this is where I’m confused

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Forget about the coil, bypass, brown wire to the coil. Ignition 1 (ignition switched/run power) is present on the blue wire/wires in the engine harness. You will find these wires at one end of the ballast resistor, at one of the field leads at the alternator, and one lead at the voltage regulator. If the wire colors are not clear, disconnect the field leads, get out a volt meter and check with the key on. You will find only one wire that measures battery voltage there with the key on.