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Before and after Wilwood upgrade

///Matt

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title says it all!

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Nice. I'm waiting for my kit to arrive. How easy was it to fit?
 
Nice. I'm waiting for my kit to arrive. How easy was it to fit?

Pretty easy to get on there, if you have all the right tools. You’ll need a 12pt 1/2” socket, and a couple of torx bits (i THINK t40 and t45), so if you don’t have those, you have to have them to put the rotors together... don’t forget your bearing grease, brake lube, and red loctite.

Also, you’ll need a couple of 15/16” sockets and a buuuuunch of elbow grease (or ideally an impact) for the lower control arm nuts. I think 1-1/16” for the axle-nut. (I’m already out of the garage and drinking, haha)

And pray for functional brakeline fittings at the wheelhouse. One side of mine was great, old line out - new line in. The other side was rusted together, and seized to the metal line, so now I get to replace some of the metal line into the engine bay. Needless to say, I haven’t gotten to bleed and test em out yet... but they sure look nice!!

Oh and the nut-kick: if your car has driver-side Left Hand threaded lugs.... it doesn’t anymore. So you’ll need 5 more RH thread lugs.
 
Matt, how much weight did you save per side.
 
Matt, how much weight did you save per side.
I don’t know, as I haven’t weighed the drum stuff. The disc stuff is lighter, but honestly I was surprised at how not-heavy-as-I-expected the factory drum and backing plate were... The car is my wife’s daily, and I wanted her to not have drum front brake woes.
 
No master cylinder change or proportioning valve change needed?
 
No master cylinder change or praportionipr valve change needed?
I have the proportioning valve, but i’m not putting it on until after I drive it and see if I really want it.

Wilwood says the M/C will work... we’ll see after I drive it! Ha
 
The passenger side brakeline fitting rusted together too badly to save at the wheelhouse connector... so I had to get bendy and replace a section of line.

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Got it bled and road tested. The brakes work well, though I do believe I will be adding in the proportioning valve. Harder stops lock up the rear without locking the front, so yeah. The factory dual/power master cylinder works well, it’s just bit easy-braking with light pressure, followed by a pretty solid grab with a little more pressure. A bit more progressive of action would be nice, but they stop well, straight, and without fade.
 
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