67 Coronet manual to front disc.

[Brandy]

So.....after reading everything I could find here about this issue, these are the take aways…
I need a different plate, a bellcrank, a master cylinder and booster.

Yes? No? Maybe? ……...the discs are from a 76 Aspen/Volare. Do they have to be power or can I go with manual disc/ drum brakes? If so, what cylinder, booster, and bellcrank?

I have a nice master cylinder from a 86 Power Ram, but the booster is like a foot wide.


Thanks! Ghost.

 

[snakeoil24]

Yes, look at pirate jack for deals on the system. A body spindles also buy the kit from pirate make life eeasier also need the splitter valve and the balance valve

 

[R/T Boy 67]

I have manual disc drum brakes on my car and am very happy with them. I can't guarantee that you would be. It is a different feel for sure. You have to push a bit harder. You won't have to round up a booster, bellcrank, etc.

 

[oldbee]

So ghost, I have to ask..WHY?? Lol, I understand the process, but did you have 11” before? Jeff

 

[5.7 hemi]

Get the 11.75 rotors, 2.75 calipers, caliper adapters (dr diff), spindles from 73-76 A bodies or FMJ bodies and if you wish to stay manual get the 15/16’s mc from dr. diff.

Search around and you can save a few bucks here ‘n there.

 

[Brandy]

So, I can just fasten a M/C straight to the firewall, no bellcrank, and place a metering block in the system for front/back bias and go with that that?

 

[Brandy]

I have the spindles, discs, calipers, hoses already assembled. Just worried about the whole M/C deal. Is there any reason a specific size M/C need be used? In other words, can I remove the booster from the 86 M/C and bolt that up to the car?

 

[Brandy]

So ghost, I have to ask..WHY?? Lol, I understand the process, but did you have 11” before? Jeff

Why what, Jeff? Why did I go with front disc? 11" drums? Discs? Need more clues Jeff.

 

[Brandy]

Get the 11.75 rotors, 2.75 calipers, caliper adapters (dr diff), spindles from 73-76 A bodies or FMJ bodies and if you wish to stay manual get the 15/16’s mc from dr. diff.

Search around and you can save a few bucks here ‘n there.

Looked it up, thanks! The 15/16" M/C I mean....

 

[R/T Boy 67]

If you go with manual brakes, make sure the master that you use has the groove for the pushrod retaining ring. A 15/16 master will be easier to push. I would not go any larger than 1 1/32. I use the bigger master, but as I said I have to push quite hard.

 

[oldbee]

Why what, Jeff? Why did I go with front disc? 11" drums? Discs? Need more clues Jeff.

I’m just an “old school” guy I guess. I just like the old drums, mine are 11” & never had a problem.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Drums have way more surface area than disc’s, but they get hot and fade faster than disc’s. I saw an article sometime back about a place in So Cal that would drill the drums in a pattern to get rid of the heat and apparently it works really well.

 

[NJRR]

Looked it up, thanks! The 15/16" M/C I mean....

I used a Right Stuff 15/16" MC from Summit. It was about $70. Make sure you replace the rubber bushing that goes on the end of the push rod in the master ( has the groove).

 

[Brandy]

I’m just an “old school” guy I guess. I just like the old drums, mine are 11” & never had a problem.

Oh, I see. Well, I don't really know why, just seemed like the thing to do once I learned my pal Gary had a set of spindles....

 

[Brandy]

Zo this master cylinder has a 1 1/2" bore. The rear end does not fit through the stock hole on the plate. Will it be possible to use this one? Or?

 

[5.7 hemi]

Whoa! Do not use a mc with 1.5” bore, EVER! If going power brakes, use an 1.0-1.125, manual use 7/8-15/16.

 

[Brandy]

Whoa! Do not use a mc with 1.5” bore, EVER! If going power brakes, use an 1.0-1.125, manual use 7/8-15/16.

Good to know! Thanks! I will have to buy one I guess...