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Dana 60 U-joint

AR67GTX

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Helping my Buddy with a 69 4-speed Hemi RR track down a vibration issue. Noticed when under the car that the rear u-joint was loose (as in trunnion slid back and forth in the Dana 60 yoke. Caps were seated OK. Pulled the u-joint and it measured about 3.65 inches outside of cap to outside of cap which is a 1350 u-joint I believe. Next used calipers to measure the distance between the cap retainer tabs in the Dana yoke and came up with a dimension of 3.75 inches. So there was ten thousands to much width (seemed like more yanking the driveshaft side to side). I think officially a 1350 is supposed to measure 3.62" so could be as much as 13 thousands play. Nothing corresponds to that dimension of 3.75". After 3.62" 1350 the dimension jumps to over 4 inches - that may be a 1410 u-joint.

Anyone see anything like this before? It has a Spicer yoke I believe but I don't recall the number on it. At first I thought maybe it used 7290 inside clip caps but that doesn't make sense on a yoke with u-bolts. We're stumped.
 
We just ran into this on my son's Duster. U straps alone won't hold the side to side motion on the yoke joint. You either need to have the small tabs on the outside of the yolk or inside C clips depending on the design of the yolk. In our case snapping the C clips on the inside of the yolk solved the problem.
Good luck.
 
Inside measurement of yoke is the one to take. The clips on inside should be close to tame as inside of yoke minus a thousand or two.
 
Back in the late 60's, I have actually spread the yoke on a 742 sure grip housing. Did this at the same time I twisted the stock drive shaft. I found this out when I replaced the drive shaft and a new U joint wouldn't fit right. This was a 383 car, so not the larger U joint.
 
The 3.75" dimension was from the inside to inside of the retaining tabs cast into the differential yoke saddle - basically intended to be same as out to out on the caps of the u-joint plus a slight margin for assembly. I guess a spread yoke is a possibility although I wasn't sure how that would happen since u-joints don't have to be pounded out of it like a driveshaft yoke. But maybe a heavy clutch dump with big tires could do it.

I'm wondering if a .05" shim in the bottom of each cap would compromise the strength of the u-joint?

Does removing and replacing the yoke on a Dana mess up the pinion preload and gear pattern?
 
In the picture is a 7290 yoke, the clips on cups should be appox. 2.625" apart to fit inside cup saddles. 133o yokes like your GTX have small tabs to center yoke.
u1.jpg
 
My u joint came with different thickness clips.
 
In the picture is a 7290 yoke, the clips on cups should be appox. 2.625" apart to fit inside cup saddles. 133o yokes like your GTX have small tabs to center yoke.View attachment 738522

This is on my Friends 69 Hemi RR. What clips are you referring to? His Dana yoke has small tabs to center the u-joint. Is this an incorrect yoke for a Dana 60?

So since our dimension is 2.75" inside of cast tab to inside of cast tab then he must have a somehow damaged yoke - one that has spread apart from abuse??

His driveshaft end takes a standard outside clip retaining u-joint (a 1350 I believe). The cap measured roughly 1.2" and specs are 1.188". But it's a rebuilt shaft so not sure if end is correct. Transmission end looks like a 7290 u-joint in it.
 
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My u joint came with different thickness clips.

The problem is on the differential yoke flange where the u-joint caps are retained by small cast in tabs on the yoke seats for the U-joint caps and with U-bolts and nuts that secure it. Clips are not used on these particular caps. I'm not sure it's the same as Fran Blacker's picture above since the tape measure covers the area where the small tabs are cast in the ends of the yoke.
 
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This is on my Friends 69 Hemi RR. What clips are you referring to? His Dana yoke has small tabs to center the u-joint. Is this an incorrect yoke for a Dana 60?

So since our dimension is 2.75" inside of cast tab to inside of cast tab then he must have a somehow damaged yoke - one that has spread apart from abuse??

His driveshaft end takes a standard outside clip retaining u-joint (a 1350 I believe). The cap measured roughly 1.2" and specs are 1.188". But it's a rebuilt shaft so not sure if end is correct. Transmission end looks like a 7290 u-joint in it.

A '69 Hemi car did not have a U bolt type yoke from the factory. What it sounds like your buddy has is, one of the Direct Connection or Mopar Performance yoke conversion kits. Don't remember the part number of the kit but long out of production. Anyway, they used an odd ball U joint that had two different sized cups on the same joint. So, a standard replacement U joint will not work. A call to someone like Mancini's may shed some light.
 
It may not be a stock yoke. I figured at first that it must require an adaptor type u-joint but can't find anything to match up with the 2.75 inch outside dimension and 1.188 cap diameter.
 
It may not be a stock yoke. I figured at first that it must require an adaptor type u-joint but can't find anything to match up with the 2.75 inch outside dimension and 1.188 cap diameter.

I have one of these kits somewhere in the shop. I wound up not using it in the end. If I can find it, i will post PN's. The U joint itself may have a PN as well. No promises though. Just an attempt.
 
I have one of these kits somewhere in the shop. I wound up not using it in the end. If I can find it, i will post PN's. The U joint itself may have a PN as well. No promises though. Just an attempt.

OK - Thanks
 
Pictures no tape measure. Snap rings fit inside saddles. Note inside is machined. It has threaded holes for 1/4"-28 bolts, cup size is 1.125" as I remember. It's for sale $50 plus shipping. Small groove where seal rides can barely catch finger nail. Could polish out or speedy sleeve. If you want it measure your friends cup diameter so there isn't a problem and I'll recheck size.
yoke.jpg
yoke1.jpg
yoke2.jpg
 
I think that is a bit different than his yoke. He let me know by text that he spoke with the mechanic who rebuilt the rear and he seemed to agree the yoke must have spread. He's planning to order a new one and have the mechanic install it next week - probably for a 1350 u-joint. This is an original Hemi car but it's got a replacement drive train and he's not too hung up on keeping everything completely original.

Thanks for all responses.
 
I appreciate it but from his text I think he had already found a source for a replacement he planned to order and I figure he wants one for a 1350 u-joint since that's what his drive shaft is configured for and that way he won't need to use a combination u-joint.
 
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