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Edlebrock Power packages

mpro69rr

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How does everyone feel about the edlebrock power packages for a 383 69 RR? Will the RPM Air Gap fit under the hood (I've searched for this)? I don't think my bottom end was rebuilt so will it handle a new top end like this power package? My goals are for at least 400hp to cruise around and light up the tires when I want. I won't be doing any drag racing. Thanks Guys!
 
I have a different model so don't know whether the hood will clear, but the air cleaner will sit high and you will most likely want a drop base air cleaner anyway. I read there are better cams, but the rest of the combination is good. I would look into a cam depending on compression and gearing. New valves and a more aggressive cam might reveal other issues in the valvetrain like worn rockers or rings. The rockers can be swapped if that comes up. The final drive ratio is also worth considering. It is worth getting it checked out by a machine shop.
 
that RPM cam would be a real torque killer in a 383; which doesn't make an abundance of torque to begin with.
 
It's 50 years old, if it has not been rebuilt, I would suggest you rebuild it and tune it.
Add a good ignition and RPM or Weiand intake.
You will likely be surprised at the performance.
 
I have a different model so don't know whether the hood will clear, but the air cleaner will sit high and you will most likely want a drop base air cleaner anyway. I read there are better cams, but the rest of the combination is good. I would look into a cam depending on compression and gearing. New valves and a more aggressive cam might reveal other issues in the valvetrain like worn rockers or rings. The rockers can be swapped if that comes up. The final drive ratio is also worth considering. It is worth getting it checked out by a machine shop.

That's what I'm going to do, have it checked out first.
 
It's 50 years old, if it has not been rebuilt, I would suggest you rebuild it and tune it.
Add a good ignition and RPM or Weiand intake.
You will likely be surprised at the performance.

I keep on going back and forth if I should rebuild the bottom end or not. I guess the best thing I could do is have someone look at it.
 
I think if it were me, and you knew the short block was good, i'd do the e-street heads with RPM intake and definitely use less cam than the RPM cam.
 
That's what I'm looking for!

Just to make sure you understand what Lew was saying: Torque killer = Bad thing. Not to be confused with killer torque.....
 
How's your oil pressure and what's the compression show? Does the oil stay clean or have a bad smell. I've done lots of top end mods to high mileage engines with many telling me the rings would go and on and on. Never happened but the bottom end was in good shape....
 
Just to make sure you understand what Lew was saying: Torque killer = Bad thing. Not to be confused with killer torque.....

Oh, that's not good....
 
How's your oil pressure and what's the compression show? Does the oil stay clean or have a bad smell. I've done lots of top end mods to high mileage engines with many telling me the rings would go and on and on. Never happened but the bottom end was in good shape....

Oil pressure is great, not sure about compression. Oil stays clean, haven't smelled anything bad.
 
Just to make sure you understand what Lew was saying: Torque killer = Bad thing. Not to be confused with killer torque.....

I'm looking for something with great torque.
 
I'm looking for something with great torque.
383's are torque deficient. the more you cam them the worse they get. which means you need more rear gear, more torque converter and less drivability. I like 383's and used to beat on them a lot. the more radical I got the worse mine ran on the street, and the major culprit was too much camshaft. a small solid lifter (comp cams xs268 or 282 magnum) would be ideal, but you can have a lot of fun with something simple like a comp cams 280h. you can have custom cam ground. PRHeads on this website is a comp dealer. I like other brands also. just don't get silly chasing the root beer stand idle.
 
383's are torque deficient. the more you cam them the worse they get. which means you need more rear gear, more torque converter and less drivability. I like 383's and used to beat on them a lot. the more radical I got the worse mine ran on the street, and the major culprit was too much camshaft. a small solid lifter (comp cams xs268 or 282 magnum) would be ideal, but you can have a lot of fun with something simple like a comp cams 280h. you can have custom cam ground. PRHeads on this website is a comp dealer. I like other brands also. just don't get silly chasing the root beer stand idle.

Thanks! This is getting more confusing the more I look into building the top end. Now I'm thinking I should stroke it but I'm not looking for gobs of HP just between 400-450. I want a nice streetable car, I'm not going to the drag strip.
 
i was looking thru an edelbrock catalog and they have a test/graph of a 383 and 440 both with the same power package. the 383 did 421hp/417ftlbs of torque. the 440 did 469hp/515ftlbs of torque. looks like the 440 did everything 500rpm sooner with almost 100ftlb torque increase which means less gear or converter. I also noticed on the graph that the 383 had about 310ftlbs of torque at 2500rpm. the 440 had about 450ftlbs of torque at 2500rpm. 140ftlbs of torque increase! that's an rpm range were most driving occurs. 421hp for the 383 is respectable when you consider a stock 4bbl engine only made 280hp, but I don't think 417ftlbs of torque at 4500rpm is where i'd want to be. truth is 375 real net horsepower and 425 real net ftlbs of torque is very realistic and a drastic improvement over stock. 440 performance in a 383 is a challenge.
 
The 69 383 hp was rated at 335 hp and 425 ft*lb. Unless it was ordered with AC.
 
The 69 383 hp was rated at 335 hp and 425 ft*lb. Unless it was ordered with AC.
Chrysler says they only made 280hp. Chrysler admits to over rating the 383's. see if you can find the October 1967 hot rod magazine article where Chrysler gives edelbrock a 383 to dyno test. look at the mopar engine manuals for real net horsepower. everything falls back to 280hp.
 
i was looking thru an edelbrock catalog and they have a test/graph of a 383 and 440 both with the same power package. the 383 did 421hp/417ftlbs of torque. the 440 did 469hp/515ftlbs of torque. looks like the 440 did everything 500rpm sooner with almost 100ftlb torque increase which means less gear or converter. I also noticed on the graph that the 383 had about 310ftlbs of torque at 2500rpm. the 440 had about 450ftlbs of torque at 2500rpm. 140ftlbs of torque increase! that's an rpm range were most driving occurs. 421hp for the 383 is respectable when you consider a stock 4bbl engine only made 280hp, but I don't think 417ftlbs of torque at 4500rpm is where i'd want to be. truth is 375 real net horsepower and 425 real net ftlbs of torque is very realistic and a drastic improvement over stock. 440 performance in a 383 is a challenge.

I think I am going to give Hughes engines a call and see if they can set me up with something. Another problem with the rpm heads (they have angled plugs) is the headers, you have to have the least amount 2" round at the head. I don't want to buy new headers. I'll look for something with straight plug. Hughes engines actually has a dealer up in Winter Park FL which isn't far from me.
 
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