Sniper EFI chassis fuel line routing '68 Coronet

[rmchrgr]

Looking for pics/ideas on how to route the supply and return lines in a sanitary and safe manner for a Sniper EFI or other return-style setup. This is for a '68 Coronet with frame connectors and full 2 1/2" exhaust.

I am not using stock lines or mounting locations, this will be 'custom' made. I'm going to use push-lock style hose from the pump and injector connections to the frame rails and AN style adapters and bulkhead fittings for the connection points to 3/8" aluminum tubing.

The plan is to utilize the outside of the passenger-side frame connector to mount the longer lengths of hard line. I've done this before on my Duster and know it can get a little tricky routing the lines back inside the frame rails and up to the throttle body. The areas that appear most difficult to route the lines safely are where they would cross over the rear frame kick up from the tank outlet, down by the pass. side front spring hanger and then the trans cross member area where all the structural framework ties in to the firewall and inner fender. For sure I'll be drilling some holes in new spots to pass the lines through but am trying to avoid doing so in conspicuous and/or unsafe places.

Just wanted to see if anyone has used this particular approach and how it was handled.
Pics pics pics!! I will post mine when I get it figured out for sure.

Thanks,

Greg

 

[Sahara]

I’m in an identical situation with my ‘70 Coronet so I’m following this.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Ive done 2 of them there really isnt a good way to run it. I just followed the original line. But a future suggestion would be to run a duplicate metal line in the same location as the supply line and only change over to EFI hose where needed. The return line is a little fat and hard to hide.

 

[rmchrgr]

The majority of the lines will be new 3/8" tubing as recommended by the Sniper instructions. I have some nifty dual line clamps so I can route both lines the same except where one needs to go one way or another. Aeroquip -6 fuel injection push-lock style hose will be used where flexible lines work best; close to the throttle body or coming in/out of the fuel pump connections in back.

The existing hard line I yanked out of the car was 3/8" aluminum but was crudely done and not worth trying to make it work. Trust me, staring from scratch with all new stuff is the best option.

 

[CoronetDarter]

Just finishing up a Tanks Inc. in tank pump for my FiTech FI.
This is the engine compartment side of the trans crossmember. The 3/8" fuel line follows the original hardline path. The power wire for the pump is sheathed in a DEI hi-temp covering for protection. The third wire is from the O2 sensor off the collector.

This is the trans crossmember from the rear. It took me a while but the power wire can be fished through the cross member rail. There was just enough room past the SFC.

Ran the hose and wire inside the rocker panel.

Took basically the same path as the hardline across the rear frame rail into the trunk area. Even reused some of the holes from the original mounting clips.

Secured the hose and wire under the trunk. The hose feeds into the inline fuel filter and the power wire drops down to the tank.

Here you see a vent line going up to the roll-over valve and another vent line to the OEM hardline. Plus two fuel lines -out and return - and the 12 ga power wire.

Just another angle. EFI is such a mess.

 

[Jeff Brundage]

I ran mine up the passenger side also. I have rms rear 4 link with tailpipes up and over the housing, and subframe connectors.

 

[Jeff Brundage]

This is at the front as it turns up to the firewall.

 

[Jeff Brundage]

I would recommend having the least amount of rubber hose as possible.

 

[CoronetDarter]

This is at the front as it turns up to the firewall.

View attachment 838267

Custom bent hardlines are a much cleaner install.