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Not mine 489 sure grip craigslist.

Obviously something strong. Around here I know numerous guys selling them for $250-300.
 
Probably huffing fumes from the tail of their Chevy or Fords and thank all Mopar prices must be triple what their crap sells for.
 
What do people smoke before they post numbers like these? 1250.00 for a suregrip missing the yoke. lmao
Hoping that someone else is smokin and hit the purchase button!

:lol:
 
Uh oh I sure hope somebody buys it or he might crush it
:rofl:
 
That's a cone type.....it should be free
 
What do people smoke before they post numbers like these? 1250.00 for a suregrip missing the yoke. lmaol

Well, it does say "Powder Springs" after the price :lol:
 
Bean,

Your “crushing it” reference is funny. You are obviously referring to the idiot who crushed his 70 Charger, because too many callers were not interested in the car. He showed us who’s the boss, didn’t he? I would say that he cut off his nose to spite his face.

Enjoy the car hobby!

Vinny
 
Its a barn find with patina for a rat rod.
 
$910.00 All new from DR Diff.
Still too rich for my blood. I need one of those $250.00 units.
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You've had bad dealings with a cone type LSD?
broken every one that I've beat on. There is just 1 small 1/4 in pin that holds the cross shaft in the case. there is no lub slots on it for the side gears. the gears seize to the shaft then it spins in the case shearing the pin and wrecking the case and the unit is junk, no parts to repair it available. I have about a half dozen that I figured I could build 1 out of all the busted ones....I still have not gotten enough parts to do that. they were the original through away diffs.
 
I've beat on them too. Generally when you shear a pin, it's because the cones are worn and are not locking up like they should and you end up with some 'one wheel peel' and when that happens, chances are it's going to gall a spider to the cross shaft and shear the pin. When you end up with just one tire spinning, most think that if they get on it hard enough, it'll make it lock up but it won't. It'll just self destruct. Several years back, a buddy was running a 70 440 Challenger RT at the track with a cone unit turning low 11's and I 'tightened' it up some and told him at the first hint of one slick not turning to pull it out and I would go through it again but do NOT try to make it lock because it won't. It was many years before he brought it back to me. It was still in good shape as far as the pin was concerned and all I had to do was machine the cone's faces and add some shims. That was 10+ years ago.

Over the years whenever I got a cone unit, I just put it aside for me and sold the clutch types because everyone thinks the cone units are junk so I got more money for the clutch units. Several years ago, someone gave me a cone unit and the thing still looks brand new inside! Yeah, the clutch units are very good but I've seen plenty of those that looked like scrap inside too. Thing is, you can buy replacement parts for them if needed but people seem to know how to trash anything no matter how good it is. Btw, I've never killed a cone type SureGrip and if you knew me, you'd call me a liar just because of how I've treated most of my cars. Most that don't know me well have asked how many times have I rebuilt the trans, rear end or engine. Half the time, I don't believe how the stuff holds up either! lol.
 
I have seen the machine the cone and shim trick but most of mine were broken before I could do that.
 
so what is the verdict on these will they hold together behind a BB stroker with 3.91 and small tire! I've never had one all I have had experience with is D60's and not much experience there never broke one!
 
so what is the verdict on these will they hold together behind a BB stroker with 3.91 and small tire! I've never had one all I have had experience with is D60's and not much experience there never broke one!
Never was a cone type SG for the Dana.....and the clutch type SG's for the Dana is much bigger than the one for the 8 3/4 and are much better even though the design is the same. The one on the left is the Dana unit :D.

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Cranky , i hear and see what your saying about the bigger is better, but will the cone type sg stay together for a street driven car or will it blow up with the first hard use! I certainly don't want a driveshaft flopping around wrecking a 13,000mile BellII.
 
High horsepower heavy stick cars with good traction is what kills the 8 3/4 rear.....no matter if it has a cone or a clutch type SG or even a spool for that matter. High horsepower automatic cars can too. I always paid attention to the tracks that the car laid down (cone or clutch). If one was a bit shorter than the other I'd do a manual check by seeing how hard it was to turn one tire that was jacked up and the car in neutral. Block the front wheels and don't set the parking brake. If you have to grunt to turn the wheel, then it's probably still doing it's job. If it doesn't take much to turn it but there's still some resistance, it needs to come out and for sure don't hammer it if you can't pull it anytime soon because it'll eat itself if you do keep on trying to make it lock up. Generally, the SG unit doesn't blow up when they quit operating like they should but you can shave the teeth off of the ring gear doing high rpm launches with a stick car and sticky tires. Automatics are generally more kind to the drive train. When you do shave teeth in an auto car, it will usually take out the sprag in the transmission....
 
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