72 charger SE body

[Gearhead72]

I'm evaluating the body of my 72 SE charger to see if it's worth restoration or a resto mod project. I have had it since I was 16 I'm now almost 47.
The car has been sitting outside since 1996. I'm looking over the rust issues and find most problem areas are typically and sheet metal is available except for the drive door jamb. The panel that holds the door switch for the dome light. Does anyone know of a source for this metal.
Also I found that the smaller window of the SE has a filler panel Bondoed in. It appears factor but sketchy. I can't believe dodge would build it this way. The mud is almost 1/2" thick . Has anyone seen this before?

 

[YY1]

I am on the fence about saving my 72 SE.

I HATE that filler panel on the quarter that is 72 only SE only.
It also causes the drip rail to be different, so you can't just eliminate the filler panel and have it look like it's not missing something.

I believe you can modify E body lower cowl panels to work.

Have you looked closely at/felt around the actual cowl vents?

That area is super common to rust through on 71-74.

Mine needs both quarters, a roof, the dutchman (which I have), and that driver's side lower cowl panel, but the cowl it's self is clean.
Labor is gonna be a bitch.

But...it's one of 503 built with a 400-4, automatic and a 3.23 SG axle.

 

[YY1]

...and you may want to expedite your decision making process.

AMD reproduction quarter panels are currently on sale and no more are going to be manufactured for the foreseeable future.

 

[Bb70charger500]

I have a 73 I'm parting out some sheet metal is the same post up some pictures of what you have

 

[moparmarks]

I have the hinge jams.

 

[Gearhead72]

I am on the fence about saving my 72 SE.

I HATE that filler panel on the quarter that is 72 only SE only.
It also causes the drip rail to be different, so you can't just eliminate the filler panel and have it look like it's not missing something.

I believe you can modify E body lower cowl panels to work.

Have you looked closely at/felt around the actual cowl vents?

That area is super common to rust through on 71-74.

Mine needs both quarters, a roof, the dutchman (which I have), and that driver's side lower cowl panel, but the cowl it's self is clean.
Labor is gonna be a bitch.

But...it's one of 503 built with a 400-4, automatic and a 3.23 SG axle.

Thanks for the info. That is the same car as mine 400 4 barrel the rear dif is not an 8 3/4 its smaller.
I have to get it into my shop to get it apart to check on the cow and inner firewall.
I'm thinking I'll find more rust. Right now I need door skins, quarter panels, rockers fenders and the driver's door jamb metal. I don't think the car is that valuable so I'm still evaluating it

 

[Gearhead72]

...and you may want to expedite your decision making process.

AMD reproduction quarter panels are currently on sale and no more are going to be manufactured for the foreseeable future.

Thanks for the heads up. I think I'll get them now anyway. If I change direction I can always sell or trade them in the future.

 

[Gearhead72]

...and you may want to expedite your decision making process.

AMD reproduction quarter panels are currently on sale and no more are going to be manufactured for the foreseeable future.

Awesome. I just bought both. Thanks again that was a huge savings.

 

[Gearhead72]

I have a 73 I'm parting out some sheet metal is the same post up some pictures of what you have

Will do but I probably won't get the chance until the weekend

 

[YY1]

Any time I'm looking at 71-74 B, I take off the plastic screens over the cowl, and get my hand and arm in there as far as I can.

You can usually feel around 90% of the base of what I call the "vent stacks". If they are rusted through at the base, or really crusty- I pass.

Sound like you got a lot of potential metal work- ewwww.
(unless you like that kind of stuff)

I ran my car through the online price guide and with all the accessories that add value (AC, hideaway lights, bucket seats, 400-4, etc) to the base 72 SE, it says my car should be worth almost as much as a rallye, or an E body in similar condition. Not even counting the 8 3/4 SG as a value add.

http://www.collectorcarmarket.com/collector-car/prices/1972-dodge-charger-value.html

 

[Gearhead72]

Any time I'm looking at 71-74 B, I take off the plastic screens over the cowl, and get my hand and arm in there as far as I can.

You can usually feel around 90% of the base of what I call the "vent stacks". If they are rusted through at the base, or really crusty- I pass.

Sound like you got a lot of potential metal work- ewwww.
(unless you like that kind of stuff)

I ran my car through the online price guide and with all the accessories that add value (AC, hideaway lights, bucket seats, 400-4, etc) to the base 72 SE, it says my car should be worth almost as much as a rallye, or an E body in similar condition. Not even counting the 8 3/4 SG as a value add.

http://www.collectorcarmarket.com/collector-car/prices/1972-dodge-charger-value.html

I'll have to check that out. I do have extensive metal work . if the gutter way is rotten I might have to pass. Most of the rust spots are normal replacement sheet metal panels. But the door jamb is questionable. And if there is rust between the fire wall I might have to pass.

 

[Gearhead72]

I have a 73 I'm parting out some sheet metal is the same post up some pictures of what you have

I have a 73 I'm parting out some sheet metal is the same post up some pictures of what you have

This is the drive side jamb behind the hinge top and bottom of jamb which I can probably fab a price and patch it.

 

[Gearhead72]

I have the hinge jams.

Are they replacement panels or cut from a charger? . I posted pictures in a reply to another member. Take a look. I'm not a body guy. I know it can be fixed but not sure how difficult.

 

[Bb70charger500]

This is the drive side jamb behind the hinge top and bottom of jamb which I can probably fab a price and patch it.

View attachment 920725 View attachment 920726

I'll get some pictures of the parts car there alot better then that definitely

 

[moparmarks]

Are they replacement panels or cut from a charger? . I posted pictures in a reply to another member. Take a look. I'm not a body guy. I know it can be fixed but not sure how difficult.

All my stuff is original drilled from desert cars. Your hinge jam would be alot easier to weld in a patch piece or or complete jam. It is rusted right at the hinge area. I would probably just patch it with a piece form another jam. Replacing the whole jam is difficult with how it is welded to the rocker.

 

[moparmarks]

Looking again at your pics you may be better off replacing the whole jam.

 

[Gearhead72]

All my stuff is original drilled from desert cars. Your hinge jam would be alot easier to weld in a patch piece or or complete jam. It is rusted right at the hinge area. I would probably just patch it with a piece form another jam. Replacing the whole jam is difficult with how it is welded to the rocker.

I'm thinking the same thing.
From the vertical seam forward towards the hinge are solid. The door is secure with no flex even when applying pressure up and down on the open door. What is the price? I think I only need the driver's side. I have to poke around the passenger's side to make sure it's solid.

 

[Gearhead72]

Looking again at your pics you may be better off replacing the whole jam.

I need to replace the rockers any way.

 

[YY1]

Have you located rocker metal?

I bought some hand formed from C2C and they were decent.

I was not able to locate any others.

I have heard some of that company's other panels are not that great but the 71-74 rockers looked good.

I did not use them, though I sold the car and then sold the rocker panels at Don Garlits.
Someone paid almost retail price for them!

 

[Gearhead72]

I haven't looked. I thought amd had them on sale for 135. But I might have been looking at the wrong model.