Overcharging battery -- still

[JG1966]

I have been chasing this overcharge for a while, and you guys have helped keep me pointed in right direction. Thank you. But I'm still too high, and electronics is definitely my weak link so please bear with me. 72 340 RR
I'm charging at about 15.25V. I get 1.5 voltage drop from battery + to blue alt wire (with car running), and 1.4V drop from battery + to blue ign wire at voltage regulator (key on run).
I've gone over all the connections, cleaned everything with wire brushes, etc, redid some connections, took apart steering wheel/column and inspected and cleaned visible ignition switch connections.
Let's assume (just for now) that VR is good, alternator and battery are good and all grounds are good (I'm certain they are).
Still, electronics is tough for me, and I have a hard time "picturing" the current flow.
Here are two questions
1. Do either of those two above tests (1.4V and 1.5V drops) narrow down "where" my voltage drop is?
2. If not, what is a test I can do to narrow down if the voltage drop is at the bulkhead, inside the car or inside the engine bay?
I'm just trying to rule out as many places where drop could be. Thanks

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Assuming a bone stock electrical system, the most common problem source for that voltage drop listed is the ignition switch Molex connector. Work your way back with the voltage drop tests to the battery to isolate where the issue is at various points. Connections involved are the ign1 (blue wire) terminal in the bulkhead connector, the blue wire in the ign switch Molex, the ign switch, red wire in the ign switch Molex, ammeter connections, battery feed bulkhead connector terminal, fusible link disconnect, and the fusible link.

Your mentioned measured voltage drop includes all of the above connections.

 

[70chall440]

Not trying to be a pain, but just putting some things "out there" just in case.

- how are you determining the output of the alternator and have you tried multiple devices?
- what type alternator are you using?
- are all of your pulleys stock, or better said for that engine?
- is it possible that you are over spinning the alternator?

 

[JG1966]

Not trying to be a pain, but just putting some things "out there" just in case.

- how are you determining the output of the alternator and have you tried multiple devices?
- what type alternator are you using?
- are all of your pulleys stock, or better said for that engine?
- is it possible that you are over spinning the alternator?

Thanks, 70Chall. Nothing is a pain. I appreciate any input.
I've only used one multimeter, and it's kind of a cheapie. I was actually shopping for a better one today for that reason. But I've used a multimeter to determine output.
The alternator is a 95 amp Powermaster 17519. It's about three years old.
All of the other pulleys are stock for the engine.
I still have my stock alternator and will measure the pulley to make sure it's the same size as the Powermaster, if that could cause an overspin.

 

[JG1966]

Assuming a bone stock electrical system, the most common problem source for that voltage drop listed is the ignition switch Molex connector. Work your way back with the voltage drop tests to the battery to isolate where the issue is at various points. Connections involved are the ign1 (blue wire) terminal in the bulkhead connector, the blue wire in the ign switch Molex, the ign switch, red wire in the ign switch Molex, ammeter connections, battery feed bulkhead connector terminal, fusible link disconnect, and the fusible link.

Your mentioned measured voltage drop includes all of the above connections.

Thanks 72RR. Pardon my ignorance, but what is the fusible link disconnect? I have a fusible link on the thick red wire between the starter relay main stud and the bulkhead. Is that it? (I did a Mad Ammeter bypass years ago, if that matters).
And how do I check the ignition switch for voltage drop if I have to take everything apart to get to the switch? That's one issue I can't wrap my head around. Do I test with switch still in place?

 

[JG1966]

Assuming a bone stock electrical system, the most common problem source for that voltage drop listed is the ignition switch Molex connector. Work your way back with the voltage drop tests to the battery to isolate where the issue is at various points. Connections involved are the ign1 (blue wire) terminal in the bulkhead connector, the blue wire in the ign switch Molex, the ign switch, red wire in the ign switch Molex, ammeter connections, battery feed bulkhead connector terminal, fusible link disconnect, and the fusible link.

Your mentioned measured voltage drop includes all of the above connections.

Just to clarify, when I check voltage drop at all of those connections, are those all done with engine running or key on run?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Thanks 72RR. Pardon my ignorance, but what is the fusible link disconnect? I have a fusible link on the thick red wire between the starter relay main stud and the bulkhead. Is that it? (I did a Mad Ammeter bypass years ago, if that matters).
And how do I check the ignition switch for voltage drop if I have to take everything apart to get to the switch? That's one issue I can't wrap my head around. Do I test with switch still in place?

Would have been a disconnect at the fusible link originally. You can test voltage drop across the ignition switch at the Molex, bottom of the column. Inset your VOM probes into the back of the Molex terminals on the blue and red wires, on the ignition switch side of the Molex while running.
All tests need to be done while under load, running.

 

[JG1966]

Would have been a disconnect at the fusible link originally. You can test voltage drop across the ignition switch at the Molex, bottom of the column. Inset your VOM probes into the back of the Molex terminals on the blue and red wires, on the ignition switch side of the Molex while running.
All tests need to be done while under load, running.

Thanks 72RR. So to test voltage drop across the ignition switch, do I put one VOM probe on battery positive and the other on the red or blue wires on the ignition side in the back of Molex terminal? Or am I putting one probe on blue wire and one probe on red wire on the ignition side in the back of Molex terminal?
Obviously, one way involves getting really long leads to reach from battery to the interior.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Or am I putting one probe on blue wire and one probe on red wire on the ignition side in the back of Molex terminal?

Will give you the voltage drop across the ign switch only.

 

[JG1966]

Will give you the voltage drop across the ign switch only.

Thanks. That's what I'm looking for.