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Engine oil heater ideas

Moparnocar said:
Why not go to 10w40 at those temps?
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It worked just fine with the 15w40...if it ain’t broke don’t fix it lol.

I wouldn’t be worried about 3 seconds to build pressure. Now if it has to crank over a few times when cold and then run for 3 seconds that might be cause for concern.
 
To think I run straight 50 wt. to 30 deg. F. One of the cars doesn't even have a choke.
 
Is there a reason why a dipstick heater couldn't be used? (other than the cumbersome task of installing/removing)
 
The reason we're using 15-40 is because we use Shell oil that has the extra Zinc for Diesels. It seems to be the most commonly sold oil with that weight.
 
I never worried about a heater and just run an Accusump (preluber). Hit the switch instant oil pressure before you fire it.
 
Speaking about the Kat magnetic heaters; I just thought of something. Since I found mine melted down, I was wondering if after starting the engine, are you supposed to remove the heater from the pan and re-attach it after it cools back down? The package does not address this question. I left the heater on and plugged in continually. I bring the engine up to full normal temperature each time I start it. I also pump the brakes and hit them hard, put the car in gear and roll it back and forth a few times. I want to keep everything lubricated. It would be somewhat of a pain in the *** to have to crawl under to remove and reattach the heater each time. Any thoughts??

Update: I checked the new heater and they DO say it's okay as they say you can mount it to the pan with straps as mentioned earlier in this post! Why mine melted down is a mystery.
 
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I use to run 15/40 rotella in my 6.5 until I noticed it was freezing up in the oil cooler when going down the highway at -25c.pressure was fine at low rpm but at 2K gauge was dropping. been running T6 ever since. no heater,no delay with pressure on start up.
I use to service T/Trailers and guys would come in for service,when I told them it needed oil they'd pull one from jockey box, wouldn't even pour out of jug! certainly opened my eyes then, but when I saw it happen in my own truck, no conventional oil has been in it ever since! 95 6.5 and still going strong!
 
BB BELLA said:
I use to run 15/40 rotella in my 6.5 until I noticed it was freezing up in the oil cooler when going down the highway at -25c.pressure was fine at low rpm but at 2K gauge was dropping. been running T6 ever since. no heater,no delay with pressure on start up.
I use to service T/Trailers and guys would come in for service,when I told them it needed oil they'd pull one from jockey box, wouldn't even pour out of jug! certainly opened my eyes then, but when I saw it happen in my own truck, no conventional oil has been in it ever since! 95 6.5 and still going strong!
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Yes, this is what I'm worried about. I used to sell amsoil, and would keep 1540 in my trunk in winter. When I pulled it out, and it was still liquid, it sold to every diesel guy
 
otr truckers, never shut them down/ there in a place with plugs, have a wabasto.
putting a block heater on for a short time doesn't help newer cars, it fools the electronics into thinking the motor is warmer than it actually is. timing and enrichment is wrong for very cold engine!
my 6.5 block heater must be on for 4hrs. or it starts better without it, synthetic is an engine saver!
 
But with the heater the engine isn't cold. The engine absoebs the heat from the oil. Even the coolant is warm if it gets warm enough to open the stat. Even if it doesn't the water in the block is warm.
 
the block heater is close to the engine temp sensor! 1-2 hrs. on and the sensor thinks the engine is warm! it isn't believe me, when the 30mph wind is blowing on the block and pan@-25C it takes a lot of heat to warm 7 liters of oil and 500lbs. of steel!it just makes the sensor warm enough to tell the ecm reduce fuel enrichment and timing advance!that's why they recommend 4hrs. min.
 
Metal and fluids do not know what wind chill is. Just air temperature. Why does the heater need to be stuck that close to sensors? You would think they would be placed as far away as possible.
 
BB BELLA said:
the block heater is close to the engine temp sensor! 1-2 hrs. on and the sensor thinks the engine is warm! it isn't believe me, when the 30mph wind is blowing on the block and pan@-25C it takes a lot of heat to warm 7 liters of oil and 500lbs. of steel!it just makes the sensor warm enough to tell the ecm reduce fuel enrichment and timing advance!that's why they recommend 4hrs. min.
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Notice I said if its on long enough to open the stat.
If its only going to be 1-2 hours at that temp, leave it running.
 
mopar 3 B said:
Metal and fluids do not know what wind chill is. Just air temperature. Why does the heater need to be stuck that close to sensors? You would think they would be placed as far away as possible.
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they know windchill when your trying to heat them!
factory installed heater 25yrs. ago
 
BB BELLA said:
they know windchill when your trying to heat them!
factory installed heater 25yrs. ago
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Air circulation reduces heat or adds heat to an object only if you are trying to heat or cool it. It feels no wind chill otherwise.
 
I live in Minneapolis and usually keep my 66 Valiant parked on the street all year due to my not having enough space in garages, etc. for all my cars.
Anyway I end up having to move it due to snow emergencies and it always starts. Even down to -10F. I just let it warm up for 1/2hr before moving it.
 
the original question in this thread was about 15/40 in cold weather! I still think anything below -10c your playing with fire starting it daily! whether use decide to use a block,oil pan,light bulb for heat,anything helps!
the problem arrises when you overnight somewhere and plug in isn't available, go synthetic and never worry!
 
BB BELLA said:
the original question in this thread was about 15/40 in cold weather! I still think anything below -10c your playing with fire starting it daily! whether use decide to use a block,oil pan,light bulb for heat,anything helps!
the problem arrises when you overnight somewhere and plug in isn't available, go synthetic and never worry!
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Yep, that's what I'm saying. Put some 1540 outside overnight, then try to pour , it's damn thick. I can't believe that would be good on the motor. Hard on the intermediate shaft too
 
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