Dash install/electrical test

[BAFRAID]

Hey everyone, just just getting ready to reinstall my dash. Wanted to know if anyone could guide me on how to do a basic electrical test to make sure all the lights work and basic things like that? It’s on a 69 super bee with a rally Dash

 

[pnora]

You need to supply power and ground to the dash. Then you need the wiring diagram and do a pin out test with either a voltmeter or test light.

 

[BAFRAID]

You need to supply power and ground to the dash. Then you need the wiring diagram and do a pin out test with either a voltmeter or test light.

Would it be safe to use like a 12 V car battery charger to power it? I guess I’m also just curious where you connect the power to the plug.

 

[pnora]

Would it be safe to use like a 12 V car battery charger to power it? I guess I’m also just curious where you connect the power to the plug.

I would rather use a battery at the correct voltage. You would put the power to the big red wire the one that goes to the ammeter. In the car it would be where the fuse link goes to.

 

[BAFRAID]

I would rather use a battery at the correct voltage. You would put the power to the big red wire the one that goes to the ammeter. In the car it would be where the fuse link goes to.

And then negative to the black on the voltmeter?

 

[Canadian1968]

The cluster is out of the car right?

This is a little more involved than you think. Depends what exactly you want to test. Are you looking to test your gauges? You want to just see if all your lights work ? Hooking a battery to your Ammeter while its on the bench won't do anything. The ammeter doesn't doesn't directly feed the dash at all. Its not like you can just "plug it in " on your bench and see if it all works.

The gauges are supplied power from the voltage regulator that is connected to the circuit board. This regulator drops the voltage to 5v for the gauges. YOU DO NOT WANT to supply 12v directly to your gauges. You could ground the dash, apply battery voltage to the regulator input pin. Then ground the correct stud on each gauge briefly to see if the gauges are at least moving. As far as lights those are all connected to the wiring harness that is feed threw the dash. With the exception of a few ( I think 3 ?) that light up fuel/ oil/ temp / ammeter.

Instead of trying to put power to the dash I would simply do a continuity test for the circuit board, its pretty easy to follow the pin connection to each individual gauge. Just put your multimeter to the continuity setting, and test each pin. This will tell you if your circuit board is in good shape. You can test the basic function of the switches in the same manner . Really other than that you need to put the dash in and hook it up . Power for lights goes threw your fuse box first before it makes it to the dash.

 

[pnora]

And then negative to the black on the voltmeter?

Ground has to go to the dash frame. The black wire at the ammeter would be going to the alternator. It is not a ground.

 

[wish4hemi]

Hey everyone, just just getting ready to reinstall my dash. Wanted to know if anyone could guide me on how to do a basic electrical test to make sure all the lights work and basic things like that? It’s on a 69 super bee with a rally Dash

This article goes through how to bench test a dash: https://moparconnectionmagazine.com...ery-pt-2-testing-restoring-the-gauge-cluster/

 

[BAFRAID]

The cluster is out of the car right?

This is a little more involved than you think. Depends what exactly you want to test. Are you looking to test your gauges? You want to just see if all your lights work ? Hooking a battery to your Ammeter while its on the bench won't do anything. The ammeter doesn't doesn't directly feed the dash at all. Its not like you can just "plug it in " on your bench and see if it all works.

The gauges are supplied power from the voltage regulator that is connected to the circuit board. This regulator drops the voltage to 5v for the gauges. YOU DO NOT WANT to supply 12v directly to your gauges. You could ground the dash, apply battery voltage to the regulator input pin. Then ground the correct stud on each gauge briefly to see if the gauges are at least moving. As far as lights those are all connected to the wiring harness that is feed threw the dash. With the exception of a few ( I think 3 ?) that light up fuel/ oil/ temp / ammeter.

Instead of trying to put power to the dash I would simply do a continuity test for the circuit board, its pretty easy to follow the pin connection to each individual gauge. Just put your multimeter to the continuity setting, and test each pin. This will tell you if your circuit board is in good shape. You can test the basic function of the switches in the same manner . Really other than that you need to put the dash in and hook it up . Power for lights goes threw your fuse box first before it makes it to the dash.

Thank you for explaining. It helps a lot.

 

[pnora]

I had my dash on the bench. Hooked the battery up to the Large red on the bulkhead and grounded the dash frame. I was able to turn the lights on and check all the functions. I had a turn signal and brake light switch hooked up so all the lighting functions could be tested. I then turned the key on and was able to operate the gauges and test every circuit. The radio even played.

 

[Canadian1968]

I had my dash on the bench. Hooked the battery up to the Large red on the bulkhead and grounded the dash frame. I was able to turn the lights on and check all the functions. I had a turn signal and brake light switch hooked up so all the lighting functions could be tested. I then turned the key on and was able to operate the gauges and test every circuit. The radio even played.

View attachment 1102340

I don't think that is what the OP is working with. I could be wrong . In order to do that ,you must of had your ENTIRE dash wiring harness installed with fuse box along with all other wiring that is connected to bulkhead. And I have no idea how you got gauges to work with out them being connected to the sending units . Or your radio unless you hooked up the antenna somehow ? As well as blinkers as they are grounded threw chassis

I am not her to start an argument either , but to test the way you apparently did requires to take the entire body /chassis electrical system and re create it on the floor. Not something most people do

 

[pnora]

I don't think that is what the OP is working with. I could be wrong . In order to do that ,you must of had your ENTIRE dash wiring harness installed with fuse box along with all other wiring that is connected to bulkhead. And I have no idea how you got gauges to work with out them being connected to the sending units . Or your radio unless you hooked up the antenna somehow ? As well as blinkers as they are grounded threw chassis

I am not her to start an argument either , but to test the way you apparently did requires to take the entire body /chassis electrical system and re create it on the floor. Not something most people do

Look at my picture. Yes it is on the bench. Load only makes the flasher open. You can still check the wires for voltage. Gauges can be checked for being able to function by grounding the circuit for each Gauge. Yes I plugged an antenna in. Very simple and elementary to run needed tests. No sense over complicating things.

 

[Gus chiggins]

Hey everyone, just just getting ready to reinstall my dash. Wanted to know if anyone could guide me on how to do a basic electrical test to make sure all the lights work and basic things like that? It’s on a 69 super bee with a rally Dash

Get yourself a powerprobe. I know they are a hundred bucks, but they work.