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440 PS fluid boiling after 3 minutes at idle.

Don't worry until you get it all hooked up. Turn to turn will get out most the air out of system . Sorry for some of "off wall "comments that some have posted. IMHO, newbies should be cut a little slack!!!!!! He's only 29,guys, "c'mon man".
 
Park your car in garage, pop the p/s cap and I guarantee you'll see bubbles & foaming. Running or not, the way it is.
 
Bubbles are normally caused by cavitation, if it’s not running ,no bubbles.
 
Power steering fluid boils @ 600° Fahrenheit. I'm sure it's not boiling. Just warming up @200° and foaming.
 
I haven’t tried to turn the wheel yet because it’s on jack stands and the steering linkage is unhooked because I’m doing a disk brake conversion at the same time haha. It’s literally over 200° from just sitting there idling without me turning the wheel. Could it be a air pocket problem?
What you need to do is make sure it is full. Center the wheel. Start the engine and observe what the wheel does. If it goes on its own one way the gear box valve is not centered. If this is happening the pump will overheat as it is continuously applying power to the gear box. You may not notice it with the linkage off.
 
Burpy burpy time...

1.Jack the front wheels off the ground.
2.Open the PS reservoir cap; fill it to "full cold" level
3.Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock 10 times *engine off*
4.Start the car and let it idle for about 10 seconds withOUT turning the wheel
5.Shut it down
6.Top off fluid if necessary
7.Repeat steps 1-6 until fluid no longer gurgles during step 3

Once properly purged, if you still have problems, the pump likely has an issue.
 
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Burpy burpy time...

1.Jack the front wheels off the ground.
2.Open the PS reservoir cap; fill it to "full cold" level
3.Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock 10 times
4.Start the car and let it idle for about 10 seconds withOUT turning the wheel
5.Shut it down
6.Top off fluid if necessary
7.Repeat steps 1-6 until fluid no longer gurgles during step 3

Once properly purged, if you still have problems, the pump likely has an issue.
If it is that easy hell yes .
 
How does one learn more? By asking questions. I asked a question. Great advice by you. Must of taken you years of experience.


LOL...That wasn't too bad...I saw one of these fellers tell a guy that he had to "be smarter than a bolt"...

LOLOLOLOoo....You're right...

It must have taken them YEARS to get themselves that smart...
 
LOL...That wasn't too bad...I saw one of these fellers tell a guy that he had to "be smarter than a bolt"...

LOLOLOLOoo....You're right...

It must have taken them YEARS to get themselves that smart...
So many are smart years go by.
 
If you don't have a pinched or restricted (internally) line somewhere, then I'd suspect that the back pressure valve has stuck.
You could also try looping the hydraulic lines back into the pump to bypass the steering box to see if that changes the heat; if it runs cooler it could point to a restriction in the box itself.
 
Greeting all,

what would cause the PS fluid to boil 5 minutes after initial start up? Here is what I have. 66 charger with a 440 with a Saginaw pump connected to the original PS box . Could the 440 pump be pushing too much PSI for the stock gear box? Is it just a matter of running some PS cooling lines? It’s a brand new PS pump. The reason I replaced the old one was because it did the same thing!. Fluid is over 200° After Five minutes of just sitting there. I’m using ps fluid not ATF.

I believe the Saginaw pump has a combination flow control valve/high pressure relief valve as part of the pump assembly. The flow control valve keeps the oil circulating while not building any appreciable pressure IF there is no demands on the steering system....like going straight ahead at highway speeds. When the wheels are turned against the stops, the pressure builds to maximum at which time the high pressure valve opens and the high pressure oil (~ 1500 psi) recirculates back to the resivoire. This causes the oil to get very hot....the equivivant energy turning to heat. It sounds like your problem lies with this flow control valve/high pressure relief valve to be deffective.....causing the flow to be restricted to the point of the relief valve opens. There is a shuttle valve that is part of this flow control assembly, that if it sticks will cause the problem of excessive pressure and heat build up. NEVER USE ATF in this system...use a medium weight HYDRAULIC OIL, ISO VIS 46 (similar to SAE 20 engine oil), as this oil is designed for a vane pump....it contains a anti foam, anti wear additives. This valve assembly is shown in the FSM for the Saginaw pump. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
 
Agree with OKDart.
200 deg isn't that hot when you consider your
coolant temp is around 180-185 deg. Trams temps
will run parallel or very close to coolant temps
as they're cooled via the trans cooler. Power
steering fluid doesn't have that luxury.
 
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