Dash voltage regulator

[Data Plate]

The 69 charger rally dash is there a way to test the voltage regulator on the back of the dash and also the condenser that’s there with it

 

[turbine68rt]

Just curious, Are you getting any sudden "flares" in the readings of the temp and oil pressure gauges? I had that for many years until switching to a solid state unit as suggested by some members here. Holds readings rock steady.

 

[dadsbee]

Regular old style sweep needle voltmeter is your friend...

 

[Data Plate]

My problem is my fuel gauge I had the cluster out and it was checked by tach man but my gauge still won’t register over half a tank I went through 3 sending units already I just ordered a new gauge and when I pull it out again wanna make sure the voltage regulator is good do I need that round condenser also

 

[pnora]

My problem is my fuel gauge I had the cluster out and it was checked by tach man but my gauge still won’t register over half a tank I went through 3 sending units already I just ordered a new gauge and when I pull it out again wanna make sure the voltage regulator is good do I need that round condenser also

That round unit is a suppressor. You do not need it. It was designed for radio noise. If your oil and temperature gauges work ok the limiter is working. Did you do the simple test? Ground the wire at the tank and see if it goes to full?

 

[Data Plate]

Yes I did it pins out but when I hook it up won’t show more then half tank when full I ordered a new gauge but not sure that’s it either

 

[pnora]

Yes I did it pins out but when I hook it up won’t show more then half tank when full I ordered a new gauge but not sure that’s it either

Ok. Do your other gauges read correctly

 

[Data Plate]

All other gauges read fine I’m thinking about changing the fuel gauge and also putting in the solid state limiter maybe that will fix it

 

[Data Plate]

To drop the steering column do the 3 bolts that mount to the floor board also have to be removed or just loosened I had a hard time last time getting enough clearance to get it out

 

[BeepBeepRR]

The problem is simple. The new senders suck *** and none of them work correctly. I highly doubt changing the voltage limiter will fix it. You may have to adjust the float arm on the sender to get it to work right. I am about to do the same thing. I actually bought the R/T Specialties cluster board with built in voltage limiter and it did not fix the issue. On to doing the sender. As far as I know the only accurate one is the original one.

 

[Data Plate]

I have the original sender which came with the car and put it in it’s in now and my gauge still does the same thing there is a guy that rebuilds them but gets between 80 and 185 to do it I may have to let him

 

[rich hourigan]

can someone recommend a rebuilder for the sending unit? i used wolfs in the past but hes not doing that anymore..thanks Rich

 

[pnora]

All other gauges read fine I’m thinking about changing the fuel gauge and also putting in the solid state limiter maybe that will fix it

If all the other gauges read fine then the voltage limiter is working correctly. Now you need to do this. Unplug the wire at the sender. Get a clean ground and ground the wire. Turn the key on and tell us what it does.

 

[Data Plate]

Ok just pulled the sender wire off and grounded it the needle shot up quickly way past full pinned out to the right

 

[Data Plate]

Shot up quickly

 

[pnora]

Shot up quickly

So the problem is in the sending unit. Are you sure the sending unit is grounded? You could plug the wire in and run a ground to the sender and see if the gauge changes. Your gauge and voltage limiter is working fine. I had the same problem when I built my Charger. I bought one of these and calibrated it and my gauge now is extremely accurate through the whole sweep. I mounted it behind the kick panel. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/...ct_id=748/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd748.htm

 

[Data Plate]

How does that box hook up is it involved I’m not so good with electronics

 

[pnora]

How does that box hook up is it involved I’m not so good with electronics

You take the blue wire and cut it in half. The unit is has coded terminals and you hook the two blue wires up as directed. Then you need a keyed 12 volt source. I used the one going to my tachometer. Last a ground wire.

 

[Data Plate]

Ok thanks I’m gonna try and adjust the sender in there hopefully I’ll get good results I’ve been fighting with the problem like a year now

 

[Data Plate]

When adjusting the arm I should bend the tab in the top of the sender for a higher reading on the gauge is that right