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Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Connector

Nxcoupe

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Anyone know somewhere I can get the connector that slides onto the sending unit stud? I'm getting signal back to it, sending unit is grounded, but gauge does not work. I'm thinking the rock hard terminal isn't making good contact on the sensing unit? Looking for a new one to replace it. Thanks.
 
Just asking...Do you have the metal clip on jumper strap over the rubber section between the sending unit and the steel fuel line? I had a similar problem and found a bad connection there. / And another question, does your temperature gauge work? If not, a common problem is the 12 volt to 5 volt regulator that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster. It controls both of those gauges.
 
RA has them in the generic section or universal.
 
If you are getting a faint pulsing signal with a test light the gauge should rise. Otherwise ground the wire at the tank and the gauge should swing to full.
 
RA has them in the generic section or universal.
Thanks. What is RA?

Guys, I've already diagnosed it, just need a new connector as the one on the car is hard as a rock. Temp gauge reads, barely but it reads. Fuel sending unit wire has strong pulsed power. Ground strap is in place and has solid ground connection.
I started this thread to find a pig tail that I could use to repair my harness. Don't really want to replace the entire harness for on pigtail connector.
 
Thanks. What is RA?

Guys, I've already diagnosed it, just need a new connector as the one on the car is hard as a rock. Temp gauge reads, barely but it reads. Fuel sending unit wire has strong pulsed power. Ground strap is in place and has solid ground connection.
I started this thread to find a pig tail that I could use to repair my harness. Don't really want to replace the entire harness for on pigtail connector.
So when you ground the wire the gauge goes to full?
 
Will let you know when I have an assistant.
 
Will let you know when I have an assistant.
Just make a jumper wire to ground and turn the key on. No assistant needed. To diagnose correctly you need to do this to be sure the gauge has full range capability. That end is always as hard as a rock. As long as the metal contact sleeve is contacting the stud it should work.
 
Just a note:
On my plymouth I an intermittent gas gauge reading.
I found that taking the wires off the gauge and cleaning everything it works fine since.

Maybe just as a test try wrapping some copper strands from a stripped wire around the stud on the sending unit and see if it reads differently to prove your thinking.
 
RA has them in the generic section or universal.
I looked for about 1/2 an hour and didn't see anything like it on there. Would you be able to post a link? I looked all thru their universal stuff.
 
Wow just looked They did have them, I bought one around 6 months ago. I guess they are out?
 
I don't know what those things are called? But take a pic of it and truck on down to your local NAPA and tell them you're looking for one of those. I bet they'll have one! Good Luck
 
Just make a jumper wire to ground and turn the key on. No assistant needed. To diagnose correctly you need to do this to be sure the gauge has full range capability. That end is always as hard as a rock. As long as the metal contact sleeve is contacting the stud it should work.
So an update, I got my buddy in the driver's seat and raised the car up. I disconnected the sending unit connector and tested the output with my testlight. It blinked steadily but the gauge didn't move. I grounded my jumper wire and put the other end up into the connector. He said the gauge went to full. I disconnected the jumper and hooked the connector back to the sending unit. The gauge showed right on empty. I disconnected it and it went below empty. I got my meter and the sending unit is showing 60 ohms. I went up and put 5 more gallons of fuel in it and it went to 1/8 tank on the gauge. So the unit is working, it's just not accurate. I need to pull the unit out and bend the sending unit arm down so as the float goes up, it will read the correct resistance and show the proper fuel level.
So to sum it up, sender works,it's just off and the gauge works.
 
C-3826.jpg
 
Before you go bending your sender arm, pop the float off and see if it is empty inside. They are known to develop very small pinholes and partially fill with gas over a period of time. I had it happen to my Plymouth and had to replace the float.
 
Before you go bending your sender arm, pop the float off and see if it is empty inside. They are known to develop very small pinholes and partially fill with gas over a period of time. I had it happen to my Plymouth and had to replace the float.
It's brand new, and it works, just way off but it wouldn't hurt to check. Thanks.
 
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