Looking for power brake booster & master recommendations

[The Rebel]

The issues l have are:

Some previous owner put in the purple cam which caused the engine to not generate enough vacuum to properly fill the booster for proper breaking, so l had to install an external vacuum pump.

The guy l bought it from converted the front drums to discs and the shop that did that installed a new master cylinder and a non-OEM style booster, wish I had the original parts they took off.

The booster is not an OEM style booster and l want one to get back to an OEM appearance.

Based on post #3, l now feel my breaking will be more improved with the unit posted.

What is wrong with yours?

 

[koosh]

Ok…. Looks like its a toss up between Dr Diff, and Pirate Jacks…I don’t see much difference between the 2, unless there’s some sort of discount being a forum member?

 

[koosh]

New master & booster ordered.
Seems like Dr Diff is extremely knowledgeable and helped me thru the ordering of correct parts …
Fingers crossed ill end up with none leaking great brakes!
Thanks to all for the input.

 

[The Rebel]

Cass is great to work with. Keep us posted on the project as I've decided to put in the right unit over the winter.

 

[Mariposa Mike]

So what unit number did Dr Diff advise and you ordered?

 

[koosh]

So what unit number did Dr Diff advise

So what unit number did Dr Diff advise and you ordered?

“Bendix Style Dual Diaphragm Booster
Options: Vehicle: '66 - '70 B-Body , Application: Add under dash linkage and stiffening plate (fits wedge engines only) (+$60.00) , Add Master Cylinder: 1 1/32" bore aluminum master cylider assembly (+$50.00)”

 

[Nxcoupe]

I am looking at the inline tube stuff. I had good luck with other parts I ordered from them, so was leaning towards their set up. Seems similar to the stuff that has been posted here.

 

[Mariposa Mike]

That must be what is listed in Post #3 but I was not sure if the post was saying this was the one to use or not. Thanks for the reply.

 

[The Rebel]

Any updates??

 

[koosh]

No updates yet, had to travel day after receiving the Dr Diff items.
A tad disappointed though, was hoping to get instructions with it since I’ve never installed these in the past.

 

[1STMP]

You started this post stating your
master leaks at the line connections.
Isn't that the main focal point of
failure?
Re-tap master (even if it means
jumping up a size on the fittings).
You're dealing with parts that are
more than 50 years old and god knows
how many times those parts have
been "brought back to specs."
I would assume what system you have
is able to stop the car except for the
leaking lines.....KISS....

 

[koosh]

You started this post stating your
master leaks at the line connections.
Isn't that the main focal point of
failure?
Re-tap master (even if it means
jumping up a size on the fittings).
You're dealing with parts that are
more than 50 years old and god knows
how many times those parts have
been "brought back to specs."
I would assume what system you have
is able to stop the car except for the
leaking lines.....KISS....

Not dealing with 50 year old parts….in post#1 shows brand new INCORRECT master and booster, a GM setup which original owner installed. Through research here, leaks occurred because GM master and Mopar steel lines do not mate…..keeping it simple