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Big Block 4 speed Hydraulic Clutch

kb67mopar

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Looking for some opinions, recommendations, etc. I'm putting together a bit of an off topic project (sold my B-Body a while ago, but you guys are the best tech folks on the interwebs). I'm putting a 1969 383 in front of a 1985 A833 OD transmission. I have a new bell housing and the input bearing retainer has been turned down to 4.807 to fit. What I am looking for is recommendations on hydraulic throw out bearings and clutches. I'll be using a 10.5" flywheel. What clutches do you guys like the best and what have you guys used for a hydraulic throw out system? I don't have any form of mechanical linkage and the truck is already setup for hydraulic, but obviously this trans combo wasn't part of that design. Love to hear some of your opinions and ideas!

Thank you in advance

Kevin
 
Just use the factory set up and make a bracket to mount the slave. Go and look at a factory set up and you should be able to figure it out from there.
 
Just use the factory set up and make a bracket to mount the slave. Go and look at a factory set up and you should be able to figure it out from there.
I don't have a factory setup, just the transmission. Are you talking about the factory setup from the D150? The dakota came with a NV3500 that can't bolt to the big block and had an external mounted slave that I can't use here.
 
I don't have a factory setup, just the transmission. Are you talking about the factory setup from the D150? The dakota came with a NV3500 that can't bolt to the big block and had an external mounted slave that I can't use here.
You said the truck/cab is set up with a hydraulic clutch. So get the slave and make a bracket for your bell/transmission combination.
 
You said the truck/cab is set up with a hydraulic clutch. So get the slave and make a bracket for your bell/transmission combination.
Maybe could work. No clue if the travel distance would work with the factory arm ratio...But maybe..
 
Maybe could work. No clue if the travel distance would work with the factory arm ratio...But maybe..
Mopar had a TSB and it was to convert mechanical clutch to hydraulic. We did many of them. The mechanical clutch was left untouched. All that was done is mount the bracket and install the slave on the lower end. So if you already have the pedals and master it will work. So yes if mounted correctly the stroke will be fine.
 
Mopar had a TSB and it was to convert mechanical clutch to hydraulic. We did many of them. The mechanical clutch was left untouched. All that was done is mount the bracket and install the slave on the lower end. So if you already have the pedals and master it will work. So yes if mounted correctly the stroke will be fine.
That assumes using the D150 parts. I doubt those are the same as a 1998 Dakota. but I can look at that. Thank you for the idea. Might even be able to use the D150 slave and hardware. I could make the bracket if the slave will work with this bell housing.
 
I used an American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing in my '68 Coronet. I didn't have any mechanical linkage either as it was converted from an automatic. No overcenter spring required since these hydraulic throwouts are all diaphragm type clutches. I loved it, worked awesome. Smooth, linear action and no "hitch" like with OE setups.

I used the factory pin on the clutch pedal so there was no guessing on pedal ratio. A.P. provides a rod end, threaded rod and coupler setup to actuate the slave but it requires drilling out the factory clutch rod pin to mount it. Drilling out the pin on the pedal is a PITA so instead I cut an OE clutch rod down then drilled and tapped it to attach to the coupler/threaded rod. Worked perfect.
IMG_5371.jpg


I mounted the master cylinder reservoir here.
IMG_5370.jpg


Setting up the master cylinder and bracket on the firewall was a bit of a pain but everything else was pretty straightforward. There is more room in that area on trucks than there is on passenger cars so it should be no problem.

There's also the Malwood hydraulic throwout bearing/pedal kits that mount the reservoir inside the car. You'd have to look or ask if they make a kit specifically for your application.
 
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