Got a bunch of old Miller tools out of a Chrysler dealership. Most #'s pop up on the web, but not these. Could it have been used for setting the old rope rear main seals?
Any old timers recognize this tool?
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Rear main seal installer for rope style seals
khryslerkid
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Crankshaft Rear Seal Forming Tool
Don't know about value, but I'm using a rope seal in my 400 block! Engine builder believed it was the better way to go. JMTC ruffcut
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Modern rope seals aren't made of asbestos and don't survive as well as the originals did... In the past you could find NOS rope seals still in the Mopar package on Ebay... If I were building an engine that would be my preferred route..
khryslerkid
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Ebay has a couple of Ford and GM ones. $30 - $40 bucks.
Rear main seal driver for rope seals
It was old stock that the builder had. He's been building Mopar engines since 1963.
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put a rope seal in a 383 rebuild when I was 20 years old...... had zero experience and no clue........ engine ran great, seal never leaked
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When I first worked in the refinery, every pump had rope seals. They all had to have some 'leakage' so they didn't burn up and that was the same way with engines. Only thing is the factory knew just how much they needed and they worked.
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And the new "seal" AKA "packing" came on a roll, probably 25 feet of asbestos packing.....
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We had a cabinet that was 4x7 and it was packed (no pun intended) full. Don't remember and probably never paid attention to how much was on a roll but it was a lot lol. All kinds including foil wrapped and graphite impregnated and pretty much all sizes. That cabinet was just for the central shop hands....all the area shops (at one point there were 4 area shops in the refinery) had a cabinet for packing too. As the years went by and all the pumps etc were converted to mechanical seals, the packing cabinets slowly went away. The conversion started in the mid 80's or so.
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arent the rope seals designed for a knurled surface?
khryslerkid
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The knurled pattern you see on some crank shafts are to help direct the oil into the engine.
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No....smooth surfaces are needed or the packing will be destroyed. We used several rings of packing with a lantern ring somewhere in the center to allow coolant/lubrication to enter the packing gland. In many cases, the product that the pump was pumping usually had a line from the discharge to the gland for this. The packing needed to be adjusted from time to time as needed. If it was leaking too much, the gland needed to be snugged up until very little leaked. When there was no more adjustment, the old packing would have to be replaced. That could be done in place with the pump shut down and suction and discharge valves closed.
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