520 CI Stroker 440 Engine Problems In 1967 Fury

[Green72]

These guys can help you fix it! The knowledge is here!
GET THEM THE BASIC INFORMATION THAT THEY ARE ASKING FOR!
Post #36 is a start

 

[Orig69]

I know this is a B-body forum… and I already posted this on the C-body forum 6 years ago in 2019, but I figured I would also post this here to get all of your help thoughts and opinions on this to hopefully finally get this car running right. My stepdad has a 1967 Fury II 2-door sedan with only 400 miles on it and a 440 stroked to 520 cubic inch big block built by the late Nick Wilson of Comp-U-Flow 25 years ago; it has aluminum heads, an aluminum intake, aluminum radiator, electric fans, an Edelbrock 750cfm carburetor, phenolic carburetor spacer, roller cam, TTI headers with a complete exhaust system, an Advance Auto Parts electric fuel pump, electronic ignition by Rick Erenburg, and a slightly higher 10.5 compression ratio. The engine has given my stepdad nothing but trouble and has not run right since he installed it in the car. It would run like a bat out of hell when its cold and do great burnouts, then it would get hot and want to stall. First it started with honing out the cylinders because they were too tight, then it was the carburetor, then it was the coil, then it was the distributor. Nothing but a pain in the a$$. My stepdad went through 3 coils and 3 carburetors, and he says everything is new. It ran great, then it didn’t, then it ran great when we put it away last November, and now it won’t run right again. My stepdad took it out yesterday when it was 98 degrees and it seems like we are back to square one again where it idles lopey like it wants to stall then it does wicked burnouts then it stalls again. I just don’t understand it. It runs, then it doesn’t, then it runs, then it doesn’t. My stepdad is a good mechanic and can work on a regular 440 no problem, BUT he is new to high performance stroker engines. I have been told it could be vapor lock on the C-body forum, I have been told it could be ignition, I have been told it could be fuel.

Here are pictures of the car, the engine, and the post I made on the C-body forum. My stepdad spent GOOD money on this engine and he is so fed up with it he is planning to rip it out and put another engine in the car, and I would like to possibly help him out because I would hate for him to rip it out if it is something small and stupid after spending all of that money.

Any help or opinions would be appreciated!

Thank You In Advance.

67 Fury 440 Engine Problems

How many gaskets do you have between the carb and the intake manifold?

 

[BSB67]

Put a fuel pressure gauge connection at/near the carb. Run the line out to the driver side wiper blade. Picture attached.

If you have November fuel in it and recently had the issue, it is potentially due to the winter blend, not the ethanol. The Reid Vapor Pressure for winter fuel is like 13, verses summer blend of 7 or 8.

I have proven time and time again that this is a real issue. Especially if it’s an on-again, off-again issue. The heat will cause either vapor lock, or percolation.

 

[padam]

Not the car no, but the engine if we can’t get it right then yes because he is fed up with it.

I tried to pm you but your in box is full.

 

[66ChargerHI-PO]

I tried to pm you but your in box is full.

Cleared it a bit, PMed you

 

[Texas97]

How many gaskets do you have between the carb and the intake manifold?

more or less than the unanswered questions in this thread?

 

[Charlie Brown]

As others have sugessted, check fuel pump pressure. A common issue with these Mopar engines is the FUEL PUMP PUSH ROD - check the length - it should spec out at 3.22 inches.

 

[davidplymouth1@]

Hmmm. Been thinking about your problem. A lot of builders do these strokers just for drag racing. They often prefer certain clearances to be slightly tighter because it will last longer. But that only works if the motor is to be run for short periods at a time. Ya know how they do it. Start it up - get it warm - do a good burn out to heat up the tires - then a single pass down the track - then shut it off and cool down again before the next race. 6-8 minutes and its really hot after that. The very first thing I thought when I read your post about a stroker was " sounds like pistons might be too tight". A lot of builders use aluminum pistons and they do swell when they get hot. Are yours aluminum? The bigger the piston/ the more they swell. And if the rings aren't cut enough/properly, they can cause tightening as well. Sometimes the rings can get so tight, that they tear the top of the piston right off. But you said you honed it and that fixed it. If the pistons were too tight, then you must've seen scores in the cylinders. Was that the case? Did you pull all of the rings off of every piston and measure the gap at the top and bottom of the stroke on each cylinder for that particular piston? What did the cylinders measure before and after honing? Do all of the cylinders have an even diameter from top to bottom of each hole, and are they equal with each other? Did you measure the pistons? I'm not trying to make you feel bad bro. But, all of this matters, and I got a feeling you didn't check any of that stuff. And that's just a small part of what needs be to measured and checked. And again, I'm not picking on you at all bro - I respect you man. I'm just trying to explain what you're facing w/a motor like that. And how hard it is to simply answer your question. Probably be impossible for an expert to diagnose while he's standing in front of it hearing run. Heck, it could just be "vapor-lock" I'm certainly not smart and I'm far from an expert. I'd normally suggest that you go through the basic check list - but it sounds like you've already done that many times in the last 6 years. I seriously doubt anyone is gonna be able to tell you how to get it going with a simple fix. (like maybe you skipped something simple) I know that's NOT what you wanna hear, but you'll be a lot happier if you either tore that motor down completely and check all of the clearances yourself as you reassemble it. Or might be easier/better to just buy a nice healthy big block that's not so radical. You'd still have alot of fun (do burnouts) and actually get to drive it without a breaking down all of the time. It's a beautiful car and you deserve to get out and enjoy it. Good luck bro.

 

[#41]

After all the years and money, it's time for stepdad to swallow his pride and take the car into a performance/race shop and have them diagnose it. Knowledgeable and experienced people with race engines need to get their hands on it.

The other option is to keep internet sleuthing which will inevitably leave you in the same cycle of frustration.

 

[BSB67]

New fuel tank, and carburetors, tare the engine down, but no simple diagnostics.

Not sure anyone can help.

 

[66ChargerHI-PO]

Fuel tank pictures for those asking

 

[66ChargerHI-PO]

Pictures of the carburetor and spacer for those asking, I remember the carburetor being a 750cfm. Also has an Edelbrock Performer Intake

 

[savoy64]

The fuel tank is new, and we put gas in it last November. We have not checked the pump pressure, we only have the electric pump on to start the engine after its been sitting and we have a high volume mechanical pump otherwise


The turnpike used to sell it, but unfortunately does not anymore. I know exactly where you are talking about, its only 5 minutes from our house. I will PM you on coming over, that would be greatly appreciated if you are willing to

I may be missing something here. I have a 522 stroker in my car. I ran into some problems trying to use a mechanical fuel pump pulling thru an electric that was not running. There are electric pumps that you can pull thru but not all. Use one or the other with a regulator and gauge.

 

[Orig69]

Pictures of the carburetor and spacer for those asking, I remember the carburetor being a 750cfm. Also has an Edelbrock Performer Intake

View attachment 1895469

I do not see the carburetor adapter in there and it comes with that Edelbrock intake manifold.

Without the carb adapter you have a vacuum leak.

You can spray in between the spacer and the intake manifold (near the secondaries) to confirm.

 

[polyjohn]

hello 66 Hipo,

We have done this exact build in a 66 Polara with a 512ci.
Yep we had teething troubles too but nothing like yours!

My first though is that's a 440 carb not a 520ci carb.
We had ours built by HP carbs and they recommended a 950cfm.

We tried many fuel systems to get the carb supplied correctly.
Electric pumps and aftermarket mechanical too.

It runs with no vacuum on the Dizzy and a fairly stock Mopar electronic ignition system.
I have used some aftermarket DEI and they have been terrible for coil eating.

 

[Don Frelier]

I do not see the carburetor adapter in there and it comes with that Edelbrock intake manifold.

Without the carb adapter you have a vacuum leak.

You can spray in between the spacer and the intake manifold (near the secondaries) to confirm.

I disagree.
You don't need a carb adapter with a performer 440 intake and an AFB style square-bore carberutor.

But the Edelbrock carbs do tend to be way lean right out of the box. So lean they can exhibit some of the symptoms described: start and run well cold, drive 15 - 20 minutes and it will quit and not start.
( Actually it would with several pump shots from the accelerator pump but most would be worried about flooding so you stop and scratch your head for a while)

I'm not saying this is the problem but I do hope you get it resolved.

Sounds like it has tremendous potential.

 

[Orig69]

I disagree.
You don't need a carb adapter with a performer 440 intake and an AFB style square-bore carberutor.

I also read the same thing somewhere but when I scrolled down it said it was a AI-generated answer.