Power Brake Booster Bracket like A-bodies have?

[68 Sport Satellite]

I've recently learned that while our B-bodies Power Boosters mount engine side directly to the firewall, the A-bodies have a stepped bracket in between the booster and firewall. It also has additional linkage to reduce over boosting from the booster. Too much boost is something I'm experiencing with my new Bendix Dual diaphragm 8" booster. It stops, but even with a 1-1/8" MC pedal feel is WAY too light for me. So it got me to investigating and I wanted to run this by you guys.

See below for the B-body setup:

Here's the A-body setup:

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

From the A-body FSM:

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Although this bracket setup was not offered factory for B-bodies, several aftermarket companies are offering this setup with a matched booster to work for our B-bodies. Have any of you B-body owners installed one? I'm curious how the pedal feel compares and what challenges if any were encountered. The reason I thought of this is I read on another site where someone said that most of the firewall mounted booster setups are much more sensitive and feather light pedal feel compared to the boosters mounted with the bracket in-between.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Never mind.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Bump for feedback from those who know what I'm talking about

 

[Kern Dog]

The problem is in your front brakes. The pads are aggressive.
If you don't believe me, feel free to back off the adjusters in the rear drum brakes. The pedal will travel further but still have the same feel once the extra travel is made and the whole system engages.
A brake pad swap is faster and cheaper than changing the booster. You will not like the look of the booster style with the reduction linkage on the engine side. The stock B body design was neater, cleaner and it worked.
Of all brake systems that I have used and driven, the B body booster worked the best.
These three cars all have the same booster:

All three have different calipers and pads. Your car and the orange Coronet have rear drums, the Charger is 4 wheel disc.
Yours is the only one that has grabby brakes.
If you want to spend the money to chase down a problem, the brake pads would be the first thing I'd check. Changing them is a 30 minute job that requires no brake bleeding.
That new booster will require new brake lines since it stands off of the firewall enough to render the original lines too short.
Hey...I often run down the rabbit hole trying new things but I aim for the easiest and cheapest ideas first.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

B bodies used the engine side firewall linkage on hemi cars to clear the valve covers. The other B bodies had it in the inside of the firewall. I can't believe there is any difference between the two as far as overall pedal ratio is concerned.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I'm just doing advance research because of two things I've read from others:
1) brand new dual diaphragm 8" Bendix boosters that malfunction out of the box and have too light feeling pedal pressure.
2) Power brake booster setups with the under hood bracket feeling different pedal pressure than power brake booster setups with the under dash bracket.

One thing at a time. I will properly bed in the new pads first before anything else.
KD, next time I'm up for a visit I'll drive your B-body and A-body and pay closer attention to compare.
Maybe in the end I'll be a guy who prefers the feel of manual brakes (I've had and driven 4-wheel manual drum brake cars before and it was no big deal).

 

[BDnFL]

Bump for feedback from those who know what I'm talking about

I can’t offer any help as I’m going down the road of bad brake stopping.
Reading your thread I learned I have the booster set up from an A body, it has the stand off from the firewall.
I’ll start my own thread so my issues don’t interfere
Car: 68 Charger with factory power brakes originally all drum changing to disc/drum.