392 Swap Trunk Mounted Battery

[PistolGrip6]

I have been working on the Gen 3 Hemi swap wiring of the trunk mounted battery to the front of the car.

Both positive and negative cable runs are 0/1 pure copper welding cable from the battery to a 250 amp fuse, fuse to painless remote battery disconnect, disconnect to front bulk head through the lower firewall, from the bulk head to the starter. Separate cable from bulk head to a 175 amp fuse over to the 150 amp alternator. I know it’s a bit redundant to fuse between the bulk head to the alternator. Just wanted to protect it from a short.

Ground cable from the battery to a bulk head through the floor, floor mount to the rear passenger frame. Front drivers side frame rail to engine block.

What are your thoughts on this set up? I’m open to criticism. Have I missed anything so far?

 

[70chall440]

I believe what you have will work ok, however I like my disconnects on the negative side. I had a painless remote disconnect like yours on my 71 Charger (on the negative side) but I had issues with it and went to a full mechanical. This might be because it was on the negative side but according to the info I could find it should work there.

I would recommend using some boots on all of your bulkhead connections. You can get them Amazon for like $10 for a 10 pack.

I also agree about having fuses, I use resettable circuit breakers.

I would recommend installing at least 1 large ground from the engine to the frame. I typically install two 4g grounds one on each side of the engine. I do this due to the ECU and electronics which are somewhat sensitive.

Otherwise, I think it looks good.

 

[PistolGrip6]

I believe what you have will work ok, however I like my disconnects on the negative side. I had a painless remote disconnect like yours on my 71 Charger (on the negative side) but I had issues with it and went to a full mechanical. This might be because it was on the negative side but according to the info I could find it should work there.

I would recommend using some boots on all of your bulkhead connections. You can get them Amazon for like $10 for a 10 pack.

I also agree about having fuses, I use resettable circuit breakers.

I would recommend installing at least 1 large ground from the engine to the frame. I typically install two 4g grounds one on each side of the engine. I do this due to the ECU and electronics which are somewhat sensitive.

Otherwise, I think it looks good.

I appreciate the feedback. I will go on Amazon now and get the bulkhead boots. I’ll look into adding another ground to the passenger side. Ive only got 4g cable and lugs left so I’ll use it.

Couple questions… did you run a separate 10-12 gauge positive from the battery to the front for non interrupted/disconnected power for the ECU and radio?

Did you get the circuit breaker type off Amazon?

 

[70chall440]

I appreciate the feedback. I will go on Amazon now and get the bulkhead boots. I’ll look into adding another ground to the passenger side. Ive only got 4g cable and lugs left so I’ll use it.

Couple questions… did you run a separate 10-12 gauge positive from the battery to the front for non interrupted/disconnected power for the ECU and radio?

Did you get the circuit breaker type off Amazon?

Per your questions

1. Yes there is a dedicated 12g wire from the battery to the ECU.

2. I did not run a separate wire for the radio to the battery, although I probably should.

3. Yes I got the circuit breakers from Amazon. I am running a 250A for the alternator side and a 50A (I think) for the rest of the car