Current 73-74 Road Runner Values

[RSMS]

That is a comparison of cost to restore. Does not matter the make, model or year. The difference in price is not enough to get the poor condition car in the same shape as the better condition car.

The best car to restore is always the most original car you can find. Buying a shiny car or a previously restored car will almost never work out the way you think it will. Pictures are deceiving and a talented bodyman can “polish a turd” or “put lipstick on a pig”. Unless you or someone who know what to look for checks out a car old car before purchasing it there is a good chance surprises are in your future.

 

[Shorty Thompson]

Hey all,

My first car was a 73 RoadRunner and I am potentially looking at trying to find one after the holidays as a project. If I could find my old one I would but she is long gone and it needed a ton as it was.

I know that prices are all over the place depending on condition and what someone is willing to pay but I wanted to get a consensus on current values for what a "solid" project would be from the 73-74 veterans on here.

Assumptions:

- Frame rails are good
- Light to typical rust issues (that is known about, there is always more, haha)
- Some dents and dings
- Has fender tag but assume Non-Matching Drivetrain. If it matches that is great but I know that will change the value by a lot
- Drivetrain may or may not work but will assume a rebuild

I wouldn't be interested in a satellite clone so we can keep that out.

Mainly looking at 73 RoadRunners & even potentially some with the "GTX" package if they are even able to be found. There is not a lot out there at the moment and so I thought I would start the search here and get an idea on what my starting point would be.

Here is a picture of my first one right before I let it go in 07. Looking back at it, it's a lot rougher than I remembered.

View attachment 1950426

View attachment 1950427

Driver or builder?

 

[plymouthman72]

There is a group that loves 71, likes 72, but abhors 73 and 74.

...and they are very vocal.

Then you have the 68-70 guys who are vocal about not liking anything 71 and beyond, haha. While they may not have the "cool" factor of the earlier models, I have always loved the 73-74's.

Driver or builder?

If I were to get another one, I would get one with the intention of building a nicer driver. I have already done the show car thing (victim of project creep) and I didn't end up driving it as much as I wanted. Knowing me though, I won't leave well enough alone and will still go to far into it.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

Then you have the 68-70 guys who are vocal about not liking anything 71 and beyond, haha

Agree.

While they may not have the "cool" factor of the earlier models

I think the 73/74 is way cooler.

 

[Paul_G]

Here is something else to consider. I am dedicated Mopar guy since child hood, but I like Mustangs up to 73 too. They rare pretty cheap cars overall. Parts are cheaper too. Put aside the Mach 1 and Cobra cars, because they are not as cheap. I see Mustangs in nice orginal shape, rust free, running, and in decent condition in the teens to $20k range. More for restored really nice cars. Even those are no more then $35k. Taking a rat you can buy for a few thousand, it takes $40k or more to restore it. Just not worth it. The "builder" cars are worthless.

Same applies to Mopar B body cars, just the $$ are higher. So many people do it anyway, put $60k and more in to a $30k car. That is what you want to find. RR Fan Dan thread #4 has the example of being screwed by a shyster. This is where you need to crawl around a car you like to look for anything that is questionable.

Now this scenario, guys will pull a car out of a barn, polish the turd and get it running then ask a higher price for it. Compare that price to taking the same car out of the barn and doing the restoration on it. Resto cost are the same, dont pay more for a polished turd. Cost to get it where you want are the same as dead turd car.

 

[plymouthman72]

Here is something else to consider. I am dedicated Mopar guy since child hood, but I like Mustangs up to 73 too. They rare pretty cheap cars overall. Parts are cheaper too. Put aside the Mach 1 and Cobra cars, because they are not as cheap. I see Mustangs in nice orginal shape, rust free, running, and in decent condition in the teens to $20k range. More for restored really nice cars. Even those are no more then $35k. Taking a rat you can buy for a few thousand, it takes $40k or more to restore it. Just not worth it. The "builder" cars are worthless.

Same applies to Mopar B body cars, just the $$ are higher. So many people do it anyway, put $60k and more in to a $30k car. That is what you want to find. @RR Fan Dan thread #4 has the example of being screwed by a shyster. This is where you need to crawl around a car you like to look for anything that is questionable.

Now this scenario, guys will pull a car out of a barn, polish the turd and get it running then ask a higher price for it. Compare that price to taking the same car out of the barn and doing the restoration on it. Resto cost are the same, dont pay more for a polished turd. Cost to get it where you want are the same as dead turd car.

This is what prompted me to ask the value question. I am good with paying a realistic fair price but I don't want to "overpay" for the post barn-find if it's going to cost me the same to restore it.

For instance, I found this 73 RR "GTX" on facebook marketplace and really want to like it. But like you said, there are so many other original examples of cars in much better shape that can be had for the same or not much more. I actually like those old Mustangs too or maybe even a 77-79 Camaro Z-28/Trans-Am . But those are not examples of my first car so I am still biased and favor the 73-4 Runner. Although a 79 Camaro z28 4 speed was supposed to be until my brother got into a wreck in 97 and totaled it.

1973 Plymouth roadrunner · U code 440

Ultimately, I know it all comes down to what a pesrson values as "worth it" and how much they are willing to spend. I just want to make sure I am being somehwat responsible before I tempt myself to jump back into the project world. I was hoping to get some possible ranges to what some would consider "fair" for the models but it's such a subjective question because there are too many variables to consider.