Hideaway headlights electrical motors

[KohrtRacing]

Excited to finally hook up these hideaway headlights.

Not an electrician, so this is a little bit of foreign territory, but I believe I’m going down the right path by going with a double-pole, double-throw switch that will allow polarity/reverse polarity both to push and pull the actuator piston, lifting or dropping the gates.

I’ll have to fabricate custom brackets to actually mount the motor. Has anyone utilized these electric ones instead of the vacuum canisters? Would love to see how you mounted them.

Video of Actuators

 

[pnora]

Those actuators need limit control switches. If they travel to far they will tear the plastic door mounts and stops off. They were also designed with a control box that worked off the limit switches. You have a lot of work ahead of you to try to fab everything up.

 

[KohrtRacing]

Those actuators need limit control switches. If they travel to far they will tear the plastic door mounts and stops off. They were also designed with a control box that worked off the limit switches. You have a lot of work ahead of you to try to fab everything up.

Agreed that there will be a fine tune needed for open and close but they do have max extensions that are easy to line up with full close. Pretty simple actually.

That said, Thinking some play between the two will benefit in the form of a wire or something. That allows for flexibility as it turns the corner upward and downward.

Fabricating a bracket is the easy part. Simply aluminum angle. May tig a telescoping tube to fit the hole perfectly on the actuators body.

 

[KohrtRacing]

Well, this test went a lot better than I thought it would! Mocked it up and it’s almost dead nuts right off the bat.

Can’t post a video inside this thread, but I have posted a follow up in the original link.

 

[KohrtRacing]

I think just a simple aluminum angle bracket off the bumper support facing towards the inside of the vehicle will do it.

 

[pnora]

Agreed that there will be a fine tune needed for open and close but they do have max extensions that are easy to line up with full close. Pretty simple actually.

That said, Thinking some play between the two will benefit in the form of a wire or something. That allows for flexibility as it turns the corner upward and downward.

Fabricating a bracket is the easy part. Simply aluminum angle. May tig a telescoping tube to fit the hole perfectly on the actuators body.

Seems like you have all the answers so all I will say is best of luck.

 

[Coelacanth]

Not sure how this might help, but the FSM states *not* to bench-test the original pop-up headlight motor. The correct way to install it is to use the adjuster knob at the bottom to rotate the motor so the headlight covers are about halfway up (there are 2 marks on the motor that need to line up), then install the square rod through the motor and into each cover. Because the motor rotates in both directions a specific amount of rotation, if it's not installed exactly this way, it'll damage stuff. Are you able to calibrate those motors to precise limits?

 

[KohrtRacing]

Not sure how this might help, but the FSM states *not* to bench-test the original pop-up headlight motor. The correct way to install it is to use the adjuster knob at the bottom to rotate the motor so the headlight covers are about halfway up (there are 2 marks on the motor that need to line up), then install the square rod through the motor and into each cover. Because the motor rotates in both directions a specific amount of rotation, if it's not installed exactly this way, it'll damage stuff. Are you able to calibrate those motors to precise limits?

I’m a bit lost on what you’re trying to describe. These are aftermarket electrical actuators that have a max extension but can also be stopped when you cut off electrical current?

 

[RJ Squirrel]

This has been my plan for mine too, buy two linear actuators and fab my own. I realize that a kit can be bought, but what fun would that be.

 

[Coelacanth]

I’m a bit lost on what you’re trying to describe. These are aftermarket electrical actuators that have a max extension but can also be stopped when you cut off electrical current?

I'm describing how things are supposed to work, so maybe that's helpful to you by comparison. As pnora said, good luck with your plan.

 

[KohrtRacing]

This has been my plan for mine too, buy two linear actuators and fab my own. I realize that a kit can be bought, but what fun would that be.

Nice! I’m routing my piston through the old factory hole and then mounting the gate lever to the actuator by way of wire with play in it. I think trying to mount it direct to the lever will tear off or break something while the wire allows for flexibity play when it rolls up and down.

Mounting my bottom actuator to the bumper Support this way I don’t have to tear up the factory mount to do anything.

I went with a steel spacer and angle that I just have to tig quick.

 

[RJ Squirrel]

I am a few weeks away from mocking up my front clip, so you get to plow the trail. Some linear actuators I have bought in the past had adjustable internal limit switches, which may or may not help. Looks like you are getting it figured out!

 

[KohrtRacing]

I am a few weeks away from mocking up my front clip, so you get to plow the trail. Some linear actuators I have bought in the past had adjustable internal limit switches, which may or may not help. Looks like you are getting it figured out!

these ones are built in. I bought these years ago and was eager to finally get these installed lol just never seemed to have time before the season started.