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6 Barrel Carbs

Have you ever tried a ch28 with two 1407's?
I had the CH28 manifold & 2 Carter Comp. AFBs on a ** highly modified 440, in like 1978
it wasn't that great, I'd rate it a fail, even after tuned

that's not that great of a manifold, old tech. or archaic tech.
compaired to most anything today
Even the old Dir. Conn. over teh counter DP 383 or DP 440
was way better intake, & a single carb dual plane

Now the CH28 with 2) 4160 600cfm VS Holley's
way out performed it
added like 5 mph in the 1/4 too,
took off a tenth+ or more in 60 ft too


I've had the 1407, Webber/Edelbrock (POS) w/electric choke on a
stock 68 RR 383/335hp stock motor, it had like 67k miles
& it sucked *** too, took it off post haste
I have it still on the shelf too, won't use it on anything I own

Not a fan at all, & I know how to tune a carb & read plugs

IMO proven, a good big 4bbl Holley
or the 950cfm 3bbl VS on an old open TR7, ** on that same engine above
was a way better performing combo, even on the street

even the Performer RPM single 4bbl, with a Holley 3310 or Street Avenger 780
(hands down best dual plane single, 4bbl intake available)
or even the old Torker was a better performing manifold, hands down
 
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I had the CH28 manifold & 2 Carter Comp. AFBs on a ** highly modified 440, in like 1978
it wasn't that great, I'd rate it a fail, even after tuned

that's not that great of a manifold, old tech. or archaic tech.
compaired to most anything today
Even the old Dir. Conn. over teh counter DP 383 or DP 440
was way better intake, & a single carb dual plane

Now the CH28 with 2) 4160 600cfm VS Holley's
way out performed it
added like 5 mph in the 1/4 too,
took off a tenth+ or more in 60 ft too


I've had the 1407, Webber/Edelbrock (POS) w/electric choke on a
stock 68 RR 383/335hp stock motor, it had like 67k miles
& it sucked *** too, took it off post haste
I have it still on the shelf too, won't use it on anything I own

Not a fan at all, & I know how to tune a carb & read plugs

IMO proven, a good big 4bbl Holley
or the 950cfm 3bbl VS on an old open TR7, ** on that same engine above
was a way better performing combo, even on the street

even the Performer RPM single 4bbl, with a Holley 3310 or Street Avenger 780
(hands down best dual plane single, 4bbl intake available)
or even the old Torker was a better performing manifold, hands down
I'm not with you on this. But, people have different opinions and experiences. i'm also very curious as to how you bolted two holleys to a ch28; any pics? you can do it to one of those crappy offenhausers, but it's physically impossible on a ch28 without cutting the manifold up.

i've heard all the horror stories about 1407's and dived into them anyway. truth is they have their pro's and con's like any other aftermarket part. currently i have five of them. all work and the three i have on my two cars are no problem.
 
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Sorry I started this thread. We are keeping everything stock. Using original intake and 3X2 carbs. Just wanted to see if there is anything to look for when performing rebuilds on tri-power setup. Got what I need to move forward. Thanks everyone.
 
the orifice size is .023", very small for an IFR, and it's difficult to clean out. when it gets dirty you'll have low speed problems. if the carbs have been sitting unsealed for years you should go thru every air and fuel orifice.
Since it bears mentioning, to clean out these tiny orifaces, pluck a single wire out of a wire brush, hopefully that should help carefully clean out those tiny ports.
 
I'm not with you on this. But, people have different opinions and experiences. i'm also very curious as to how you bolted two holleys to a ch28; any pics? you can do it to one of those crappy offenhausers, but it's physically impossible on a ch28 without cutting the manifold up.

i've heard all the horror stories about 1407's and dived into them anyway. truth is they have their pro's and con's like any other aftermarket part. currently i have five of them. all work and the three i have on my two cars are no problem.
You may be correct, it may have been a Offy intake I had the 2 Holleys on...
I had both, I may have been mixing to 2 combos up... My bad if it was
If it was (Offy 2x4bbl), it was still considerably faster
& better than that CH28 with the 2 Carters, even with the way better 'real Carters AFB Comps'...

I'm "still" not with you on the performance side of either, that manifold or the Edel/Webber 1407...
it (carb) doesn't flow anywhere near 750cfm (just look at the top of the carb, all them square edges)
all the FLOW restriction thru it, & was a PITA to get anywhere near right, even with a single 4
on a really good proven manifold, dual plane like an Edel. RPM Performer... Webber/Edel. fail

Still the CH28 I had with the real 2 Carter Comp. AFB's, was a fail...
Holley for the win...

opinions vary vastly
that's mine
 
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Sorry I started this thread. We are keeping everything stock. Using original intake and 3X2 carbs. Just wanted to see if there is anything to look for when performing rebuilds on tri-power setup. Got what I need to move forward. Thanks everyone.
No big deal on my end,
It's just a debate, happens when you deal with performance & cars
always different opinions/likes etc.
 
Lots of the usual six pak disinformation.
A properly tuned six pak car outruns it's 4bbl equivalent, always

While it is not rocket science the key is in the set up and tune up which befuddles most
 
Lots of the usual six pak disinformation.
A properly tuned six pak car outruns it's 4bbl equivalent, always

While it is not rocket science the key is in the set up and tune up which befuddles most
going from a completely stock 375hp 440 (factory exhaust, 10:1 pistons, cam, 3.23 gear, automatic '69 b-body) i went from 14.01@99mph to 13.45@104.5. with nothing more than a 6pak.
 
going from a completely stock 375hp 440 (factory exhaust, 10:1 pistons, cam, 3.23 gear, automatic '69 b-body) i went from 14.01@99mph to 13.45@104.5. with nothing more than a 6pak.
Just one of my cruisers, but just a +.030 440 six pack with a mild hyd. F.T. cam my red 70 Charger has well over 1000 passes on it over the years at usually averages around a 12.68-12.90's at around 118 mph at 4290 lbs with a 1/4 tank of gas on regular ole BFG or Cooper street radial tires.
 
Just one of my cruisers, but just a +.030 440 six pack with a mild hyd. F.T. cam my red 70 Charger has well over 1000 passes on it over the years at usually averages around a 12.68-12.90's at around 118 mph at 4290 lbs with a 1/4 tank of gas on regular ole BFG or Cooper street radial tires.
Well that thing sure turns on at the far end!
 
Sorry I started this thread. We are keeping everything stock. Using original intake and 3X2 carbs. Just wanted to see if there is anything to look for when performing rebuilds on tri-power setup. Got what I need to move forward. Thanks everyone.
These things clean carbs better than any other technique or tool I have tried
Screenshot 2026-02-10 at 2.03.04 PM.png
 
My old (1980's) 446cid 6bbl STR 14-6, VS outboard highly modified carbs
IIRC 0.590" Purpleshaft FL tappet, with 1.6:1 (0.629 gvl) w/Super Gold Cranes,
ported 68 iron Bill Stammerjohn heads 906s, like 280cfm (?), with 90cc chambers
Venolia 12:1 domed, shaved a bit & valve relieved a tad more pistons,
to be like 11+:1 with a 0.039-0.040" dead-soft solid copper gaskets,
it would mile an hr pretty damn well, with 29x9.5 Hoosiers D2's, 4.30:1
in my old Yella' 69 RR
back in the early 80's street racing, 11.40's no juice, w/23 spline 4 speed car (& it lived)
(I ran M/T N50/15 Sportsman's sticky street DOTs for a while, 12.61 was my best pass IIRC,
slicks were way better & way faster, launch more RPM like 3,500
)
after N2O 10.70's mid 123+ or minus 2mph Fremont or Sacramento (IIRC)
with a Top Gun '2bbl plate kit, their 250 jets, it was more like 175hp kit with juice/N2O
& 1/2" spacers under the outboard carbs, holley blue pump & dedicated red pump for the N2O
Holley bypass reg./s, flowing at 5psi (N2O) & flowing rate of 7psi to the Carbs
on shot-peened LY rods, good ARP bolts, Childs & Albert tri-metal bearings
& stock forged crank, polished & balanced, with ARP studs on the bottom-end & heads
it was too much gear for it, 7,200rpm at the stripe if it hooked well on juice
like 6,800rpm without N2O, good Hayes Clutch, BorgWarner style IIRC

It was a fun car, I wasn't beat very often on the street
quick for what it was & it was street driven almost every week
from Concord Ca. to, Fairfield, even to Sacramento area
or bay area cities like Cupertino South Bay, SanJose
or north to Sebastopol or Rohnert Park
or SF & Oakland, Richmond, Berkeley & El Cerrito were all hot spots
so was Sacramento out in front of Rancho Secco Nuke plant, was a hit
so was Pittsburg on 10th street in front of the PG&E power plant,
some hairy wrecks out there, some serious faster cars too
or in front of Antioch PG&E plant too

But best was cruise nights, Fri. Sat & sometimes Sun. in Walnut Creek
Main St. Locust loop & then out to Encino Grande Safeway 'to bench race'
meet up the bros. on the corner of Concord Blvd & Willow Pass
& get street races going, until all hrs of the night (right behind my house)
could see it off my rear deck, on Ignacio Valley rd. both ways
or Willow Pass rd. Concord for the slower cars just outside of the
Encino Grande Safeway parking lot, people from all over, came there
between Concord & Walnut Creek, fast cars for the time, for 10+ years

I drove it sometime even to work, when I didn't have to carry any materials
to spice up my commute

sorry for the shot book just reminiscing
Budnicks 69 RR 440 str-6bbl #1.JPG

while still building it, 1981-82ish, didn't have juice until like 1985ish
Budnicks 69 RR 440ci str-6bbl #2.JPG


not mine but one of these outboard kits
Intake 440-6bbl Edelbrock STR 14-6 MoPar Jet & Outboard Plate kit 3690793.jpg


Intake 413-426w-440 Edelbrock STR-14-6 Cross Ram Tom Hoover 9-1975  jetting.jpg


Intake 413-426w-440 Edelbrock STR-14-6 Cross Ram Tom Hoover 9-1975 modification bulletin drawing.jpg

not mine but something like this down on the intake inlets
Intake 413-426w-440 Edelbrock STR-14-6 Cross Ram Tom Hoover 9-1975 modification manifold.jpg
 
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