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I have always wiped everything down with a wet sponge then followed up with Meguiars NXT Tech Protectant...it's great, provides nice shine, smells nice, and is NOT greasy.
For a spray can clear, I'd get a sandable type and wet sand the finish, then buff it out....it will shine like crazy once you do this. Wet sanding after the light coat of clear will help the 2nd layer lay down better, then you can apply a "wet" coat that won't fog or run.
I just installed a set of the KYB Gas Adjust shocks on the front and rear of my car this past weekend...difference is night and day, definitely pleased with my decision. I don't know why they get a bad rap for being too stiff, these ride very nice...firm but not tooth chipping stiff.
haha, the half asleep response to it was priceless...there is a nuclear power plant about 20 miles from me and I thought it was the distress siren, freaked out for a second.
The only issue with securing it better is the amount of a "turn" after it's inserted into the notches on the trim ring...
Long story short, I woke up to my car's horn staying on constantly (at 2 am mind you). When I went down to the garage I noticed the horn button had popped off the center of the steering wheel and caused the horn to stay on. These buttons don't seem to go on very tight, so here is my question...
How did you get the lacquer to settle correctly? As I said, I tried it on the sill plates but it looked horrible...I did it very lightly but was not impressed.
Thanks again for the compliments, I'm quite pleased with how everything turned out.
Just this weekend, I finished the front shock...
Thank you very much. I toyed with the clear coat idea but when I polished my sill plates, I tested the method out on them and it looked absolutely horrible...even after a wet sand and polish they didn't quite have the "shine" I was looking for, and you could definitely tell they were painted...
No I didn't, this is my budget re-build/re-work so I haven't got the cash to get that done...eventually I will, or get them chromed. Possibly have everything powder-coated to match the body, and reverse the "theme".
All I did was apply 2 coats of wax to the parts to help somewhat protect them.
Without a doubt this raised my level of appreciation for the companies that specialize in this type of work. Being my first attempt at re-finishing any sort of metal, it was a learning experience to say the least...props to those who do it day in and day out, year after year.
Your car makes me extremely jealous....all that power, and a beautiful car (slightly bias). I had thought about reversing the theme on the front end....where the black accents are, I wanted to chrome them and powder coat everything else black....I suck with photoshop so I really don't know how...
Yeah, getting off the factory anodized coating was definitely part of the challenge for sure, lots and lots of elbow grease with 220 grit sand paper....once that was off it was more "workable" for sure.
For the dings and dents, I went to Harbor Freight and got a set of sheetmetal...
Thanks a lot guys, I really appreciate all the positive feedback...it definitely took a lot of time and patience...thankfully I'm not really into watching a lot of TV. I had all the parts in my basement and spent hours after work every day, and a majority of my time on the weekends doing this...
Thanks, hard work for sure. The process for the aluminum was to dry sand with 220 grit to remove all the oxidation and pitting (believe me after you do this there is no reason at all to go to the gym haha). Following that, I wet-sanded (in a cross-hatch pattern) with 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500...
Wanted to post some pictures of my finished product for the front end (headlight housings, side panels, and grille), and also the rear panels (each side of the license plate). ALL of these pieces were badly pitted and oxidized prior to my work, and for being my first time "refinishing" metal, I...