Recent content by 1mightymopar

Thanks again for all your help guys. Finally figured it out. the orange and the pink wire are joined together and run all the way to the fuse box directly. Orange wire was connected to the 20 am constant and pink was in orange bank. Surprised that it did not go to the switch or dinner first...

Ok got the courtesy lights to work by moving the pink wire on the fuse box. They had it piggy backed in the orange wire. My problem is still that the orange wire has constant power with ground making my light stay on. I just put in a new dimmer switch. Any idea where this power would be...

Thanks guys, I think I've figured out a couple of things that may be wrong with mine. I'll revisit tonight and let you know. Thanks again for your help!

The 3 amp fuse is the pink bank on the far right. It's labell d 3 amp so that's why I called it that. I'll take a pic later today. Why is my shift indicator always on? Can't figure out how it shuts off? I get the door switch cuts ground for courtesy lights but not shift indicator.

Hey guys, hoping someone can help me out. After changing the wiring in my charger I can't seem to get my console lights to work properly. My shifter indicator light is always on. My console lights do not work. Orange wire has 12 v Pink wire has 0 (pink is piggy backed on orange in the 3 amp...

Going to have to check if there are two ports available?? If not will need to rig up a tee. If I use the old sender, new gauge reads 100... If I use the new sender, old gauge doesn't read. Will need to have both going separately. Thanks for your input!

Hey guys, I recently added the three under dash gauges. Voltmeter - no problem. Temp gauge - no problem. Oil pressure, now I got a problem. How do you hook up additional under dash gauges and still have the dash oil gauge work? I currently have an electrical sending unit and gauge in a 69...

I ended up changing the water pump, thermostat and water pump housing and sending unit. Was not good to have to flush and redo this again after 3 times. LoL. Added another ground to the firewall and added mechanical gauges. Ground fixed the ammeter and the overheating looks like it was a bad...

Thank for all you input guys. I really appreciate it. I'm in the process of hooking up mechanical gauges, but I think the temp gauge is accurate. It heats up at high speed only. At idle, it's firm at 180. Can it be the water pump, thermostat or possibly a head gasket? No smoke coming out the...

Is it possible I put too much thread sealer on and the water channels are blocked in the heads? Still doesn't explain the ammeter though.

I don't thin so, but anything is possible? I read somewhere guys were having issues with e3 plugs? That true? I just came in from a ride. Took it in the highway to see. It's nice and cool out today. On the highway, perfect. 170, ammeter slightly over half solid. No bounce. The minute I...

Thanks, I did try with a infrared gun. Rad is cold as a cucumber, water pump also ok. Driver side head a little hot but not Thanks David, I did hook up a voltage meter to the battery. 12 volts off and 14.2 - 14.5 when running. Gas gauge does not move. Solid as a rock. I'll double check the...

The heads weren't changed. Just added hedders with new hedder bolts. They first leaked, so I pulled them out and added thread sealer. Leaks stopped with that.

Could the heads be jammed up/plugged? I had the cap off the rad and there was movement. Slow mind you, but there was movement. Could 1 head be clogged?

The gauges are all stock. When the car is warmed up (180) I can put it in reverse and the gauge will started to move almost instantly. You figure with higher rpm, the temp should go down, not up. At idle the Ammeter is also somewhat steady. Both worked perfect before... you think the pump...