Recent content by 493 Mike

No mention of Indy heads? Mike

My wagon weighed 3580 before I took out about 30#s. Aluminum heads, water pump and housing, 3" exhaust w/c.o.s, GV OD, 727, 8 3/4 w/SG, Caltrac mono leafs and bars, plastic fuel cell, no interior behind bucket seats, no wiper system, glass hood, steel rear wheels. Mike

Where is the secondary air door? Air Valve Secondary. Mike

Thanks for trying! Mike

Technically, it's for a 4 speed 69 RR. Looking for options here. Thanks. Mike

I just clicked on the link and the address and phone came up? Mike

My motor has one connector with a red and a yellow and a second with 2 blue wires (I think as the colors are faded). Variable speed wipers. Mike

Does anyone have one to sell? Mike

The clock-spring is of bimetal construction, like a carb choke spring, and opens/relaxes with heat. The weight on the other end of the shaft helps balance the opening action. In the old days I sprayed Chrysler solvent/lube on the shaft/bushings at every tune-up. Mike

You can probably buy a grommet at the hardware store but, certainly not a dual sleeve like you show. Search the Mopar vendors on this site or just Google them. Mike

I had my last drive shaft built at: http://drdrivelineinc.com/ It was almost too pretty to use. Mike

I had Dynamic build 2 converters for different cars/combos and they both worked well. Frank even cut me some slack when I bought the second converter! Mike

And, it forces exhaust gases to travel up through the passages in the cylinder heads, through the intake manifold, releasing heat to speed up the vaporization of the fuel and better combustion. The shaft has bushings which wear out and leak and the antirattle spring rusts out and falls off. Mike

This looked like a fun project! Mike

Check with local truck supply companies. They usually offer drive shaft rebuilding/repairs/replacement. Mike