Recent content by 72RoadrunnerGTX

Nacho, Wiring diagrams do indeed show power windows & liftgate window options power take on the battery side of the ammeter, conceding that one point. Not sure I follow the logic in that. Possibly not being an operating load, it’s likely the momentary high current draw from window lift motors...

#330

No, ignition 1 is run (full voltage in the run position only), Ignition 2 is the resistor by-pass (full voltage in the crank position only).

If the Sniper and the fuel pump are connected straight to the battery as their generic instructions specify, that would explain the constant false charging indication on an ammeter-based charging system. May as well do the ammeter by-pass then, as the original purpose of the ammeter will be...

Yep, run a wire from one field terminal to the alternator case, connect the single original field wire to the other. The black device in you pic is an original style mechanical regulator.

Yes, you can run a later dual isolated field alternator on a ’69 and earlier application, just ground one field terminal. No technical reason to replace the existing mechanical regulator if it’s working as it should. However upgrading to the later electronic regulator is fairly easy to do.

That would indicate you have some incorrect loading at the battery or on the battery side of the ammeter. As mentioned, a fully charged healthy battery will draw verry little current on its own, ammeter should be centered under normal operating conditions.

That's backwards, the red ammeter lead goes to the battery, the black is the feed from splice1 then to alternator. To OP, are you assuming the black wire is grounded or has it been tested?

It's an internal component of an original ammeter.

Really need to do a proper diagnosis, forget about the test light, break out the digital VOM, configure it for amps. Connect it between the battery post and the disconnected cable. How much current draw while at rest? Careful not to try to start it or activate any big loads with the VOM...

Sounds like an ignition switch Molex connector issue to me. You can properly diagnose/test it and the ignition switch function prior to taking apart the column. Perform a voltage drop test on each side of the red ignition switch feed while under load.

Bulkhead charge circuit by-pass, one older approach is running a drill trough the melted cavities and running a direct splice through.

Ign1 is present at the alternator, one of the field wires (blue one) if that had been shorted it could explain the melted wires at the choke control. The rectifying diodes don’t have anything to do with the field side of the alternator however.

Yes, on that manifold, there is no technical reason to plug off the empty choke well if the divorced choke spring assembly is removed.

15.5volts? Have you checked the voltage drop between the battery and the ign1 terminal at the regulator while running?