Recent content by 72RoadrunnerGTX

Keyed 12v positive is being supplied to the input side voltage limiter (voltage drop?) at your B labeled terminal via the accessory circuit, will show continuity to the 12ga black wire at the ignition switch Molex connector if testing. On the output side of the voltage limiter is averaged to...

Of the two 18ga black wires, one is the cluster ground (C), and one is the keyed power supply to the voltage limiter (B). The original Rallye harness uses a wider female Packard terminal on the ground lead. The other end of that lead is the harness ground near the far driver’s side dash frame...

To be clear, should only continuity between the two outer switch terminals in reverse, no other gear position.

Is there continuity through the outer contacts of the installed switch in reverse? If not, pull the switch, depress the plunger, do you have continuity through the outer switch contacts? Ensure there is only one seal in place, have seen inadvertently doubled up seals interfere with the switch...

For a ’70 b-body, insert the Molex terminals into the Molex connector as indicated below. Cut the small black wire from the Molex connector and tape it back or remove the Molex terminal if you have a column shift auto and insert the shift indicator lamp lead in that cavity. Failure to remove the...

The circuit breaker in the switch isn’t going to prevent long-term heat build-up at the switch or other related stock headlight circuit conductors or terminations due to excessive lamp load current. Takes quite a bit of current to trip that breaker when it’s in good order.

For headlight current comparison, prefer my own measurements over the “published” current draw specifications for various lamp types. Some are quite a bit off the published numbers.

Heat at the headlight switch? Too much headlamp current for what the stock switch and wiring was designed for. Replacing the switch isn’t going to fix it. What headlamp type are you running? Likely have some wire warming going on as well in the stock 16ga headlight wiring and experiencing a high...

Before unwrapping the harness to get at the splice, I’d be sure the terminal on the black wire at the ignition switch Molex leading to the splice is good, It’s a short run for that black wire to the splice. I’d probe into the wire just behind the terminal. Hard to imagine the splice is bad.

Yep, should work fine, splits off to the input side stock dimmer control, can pick it up there as well.

Doesn’t surprise me, I think I’ve heard that said before.

I agree the porting issue mentioned likely plays a role in the amplitude of the noise transmitted up the Mopar columns I experienced last year but the porting didn’t eliminate the noise altogether. Replacement boxes were sent out and installed (thanks BAC) and were quieter for sure for both...

I believe it has to do with the proximity of the gear box pressure control valve to the input shaft of the box. The hydraulic noises generated by the control valve operation being mechanically/directly transmitted up through the stock style coupler (BAC’s version of the stock coupler) and...

Actually, fusible links react slower than fuses or circuit breakers typically, can absorb the occasional current spike without tripping. When sized appropriately, they tend to be more reliable than fuses in this application. A failed/blown fuse, or tripped circuit breaker, on the power supply to...

What jumps out at me is the “shunt wire” bypass, paralleled/defeated circuit protection for the stock under dash wiring. Should a short occur in the stock unfused wring or components fed by this wiring, it will allow close to 200 amps to flow from the battery before any circuit protection...