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Needs a good ground to the fender, the lower bracket has some teeth designed to dig through the paint and undercoating on the underside of the fender panel. I will add a separate ground wire using a ring terminal under the mounting stud nut to insure a good ground to the lamp housing.

Another take on relay flyback diodes in automotive applications.

Working on a new set of videos about electrical issues common to these original ammeter-based electrical systems. Updated the fixture a bit for a little more clarity while doing some more load testing with a new tool (to me anyway) to track resistance and heat related issues. Will be reviewing...

The 833 does not have a Neutral safety switch, back-up light switch only. The described/pictured wiring is the back-up switch wiring, nothing to do with the starter relay. As previously mentioned and diagramed, the unused terminal on the relay goes to the clutch pedal switch (at the clutch...

Yes, to the primary side of the relay. The clutch pedal switch would provide the ground to activate the relay when the pedal is depressed only. If the clutch pedal switch is not used, will need to provide a ground and be careful not to start it while in gear. The same terminal would be used for...

You have a “bare post” on the starter relay? Green wire? You are not using the clutch pedal switch? You need to ground that “bare post” to be able to activate the relay from the ignition switch.

Yea, I saw that one, thanks for the props. Tried to comment on it, appears you may still have my YouTube profile blocked, commented on an earlier vid on that project challenging some ammeter info presented, my comments disappeared shortly after that. Good luck.

FYI, this is what those voltage limiter connectors look like on a factory original Rallye harness. Ground lead on the right.

FBBO member RJRENTON "Bob" has passed away.

Hadn’t heard about that, sad news. Bob had commented a couple of times on this tread when it first went up back in January.

Now if those original bulkhead terminals (Packards) were rated to handle anywhere near 30 amps of current, we likely wouldn’t be having this discussion. Load up some options, power windows, power seats, power door locks, A/C, C-body? Hence the factory C-body recall approach to parallel around...

All stock configuration? Make sure those added loads (EFI, head light relay, and related equipment) are all connected to the alternator side of the ammeter, NOT directly connected to the battery. May want to consider the C-body recall approach to relieve some current stress off the bulkhead and...

All numbers listed were taken with the same test equipment here at the same time and at 13.5 volts, rounded to a tenth of a volt or so, the tolerances between different test equipment doesn’t play a role in this comparison. OE stock 12AWG headlight wiring? What year/platform is that? Most stock...

The numbers on that chart mentioned are carefully measured numbers using the same test equipment for all bulb types listed. They are the actual numbers for both sets Retrobrights I own. The stock headlight wiring and related components were barley able to handle the OE sealed beams without...

Keyed 12v positive is being supplied to the input side voltage limiter (voltage drop?) at your B labeled terminal via the accessory circuit, will show continuity to the 12ga black wire at the ignition switch Molex connector if testing. On the output side of the voltage limiter is averaged to...

Of the two 18ga black wires, one is the cluster ground (C), and one is the keyed power supply to the voltage limiter (B). The original Rallye harness uses a wider female Packard terminal on the ground lead. The other end of that lead is the harness ground near the far driver’s side dash frame...

To be clear, should only continuity between the two outer switch terminals in reverse, no other gear position.

Is there continuity through the outer contacts of the installed switch in reverse? If not, pull the switch, depress the plunger, do you have continuity through the outer switch contacts? Ensure there is only one seal in place, have seen inadvertently doubled up seals interfere with the switch...

For a ’70 b-body, insert the Molex terminals into the Molex connector as indicated below. Cut the small black wire from the Molex connector and tape it back or remove the Molex terminal if you have a column shift auto and insert the shift indicator lamp lead in that cavity. Failure to remove the...

The circuit breaker in the switch isn’t going to prevent long-term heat build-up at the switch or other related stock headlight circuit conductors or terminations due to excessive lamp load current. Takes quite a bit of current to trip that breaker when it’s in good order.