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Convertible? Power windows? Not many things drawing power from the battery side of the ammeter but some convertible top pumps are connected at the battery side of the ammeter at the ammeter. Some platforms draw power for power windows on the battery side of the ammeter but are key switched via a...

Assuming the ammeter returns to center when shut off or battery disconnected. Not seeing how a connection issue at the ammeter studs would create a high charge indication. Normally, a high abnormal charge rate would indicate a battery problem, were the batteries tried load tested, verified as...

Not following that math there, 25%? A full correct quad set of Retrobrights draws close to 12 amps on high beam. Which is about the same as, or a bit more than, the original OE tungsten-based sealed beams. Sealed beam Halogens drawing about 14 amps, and High wattage H4/H1 system will draw about...

Yes, there are several LEDs offered as replacements for H4s, will fit any housings designed for H4s. Issue is, that for most of these cars, they are too bulky on the backside and will not fit into the buckets without cutting holes in the fender structure behind the buckets. In that regard, the...

Have installed many sets of those E-code Hellas. Only way to adjust is the method mentioned already, pull it up to a flat wall, 15-20 feet away on a flat surface. I will bring fender covers or something to hang over and block all but one lamp, adjust one at a time. The low beams have a...

Nope, each one meant a happy customer and much time saved chasing the occasional transient popping noise problems later in most every installation of high-end audio systems into high-end automobiles of the time I operated a very successful high-end installation shop. Bought them in thousand-unit...

Well now that’s “nonsense”, the logic of using diodes pre-computer was explained fairly well in post #22 I believe. Have personally installed many hundreds of diodes across added automotive Bosch, or Bosch style, relays, if they didn’t already have one internally, for decades to keep popping...

As mentioned, you have a short in one of turn signal lamp circuits, could be at a socket or in the wiring leading to.

Technically, for the diode symbol, current is blocked in the direction of the arrow (indicated by the perpendicular line at the tip of the arrow), as DC current flows from negative to positive, current is allowed to flow opposite the indicated arrow.

Adding diodes across the primary side of automotive Bosch style relays is nothing new. Dates back to the start of high-end automotive audio/stereo, for the same reasons posted here but to address relay “popping” being induced into line level components, pre-computers. Yes, when the diode is...

Here is my experience with the RTX brake warning light wiring. See post #34.

I have seen all sorts of goofy stuff. If the circuit board is grounded sufficiently there is no need to replicate the added ground lead. You can lose that condenser as well, not needed for the RTE vr.

Basically, converting the lower column to a stock type ’73 configuration, replacing the column tube, shaft with a ’73 B-body column parts that includes a “rag-joint” and related heat shield. Kind of a tough thing to do mentally, installing a rag joint, going backwards of sorts but really didn’t...

Yea, late to that party for sure, no excuses. Priorities and a degree of laziness I suppose. When I restored this car almost 20 years ago now, don’t recall any chatter about anything other than KYBs. Hoping to spend more time driving my cars now.

Following up a bit on my Borgeson conversion, was able to finally find the time and available access to the alignment rack, distracted by other projects. Not sure if I mentioned previously, as well as the Borgeson box and related steering column modifications to stop the hydraulic noise coming...

Will have to disagree that opinion, “All the current in the car passes through those gauge contacts”, fact is, as stock, while in normal operation, no vehicle loads are routed through the ammeter and related connections. If added loads are correctly loaded on the alternator side of the ammeter...

Not talking about the 160 milliamps it takes to trigger the primary side of the typical Bosch style automotive relay, referring to the unswitched high current load secondary power source, it does matter where this power comes from with a stock ammeter-based system. Running loads need to be on...

Of the items listed by the OP in the first post, which would you consider would not be in use most of the time while the vehicle is in operation, engine running? Other than convertible top pumps and station wagon rear gate window lift motors, what other types of accessories are you referring to...

If running a stock ammeter-based charging system, never connect loads at the battery or anywhere on the battery side of the ammeter. If not wanting to connect directly at the alternator stud, you can use a simple stud mount near the bulkhead connector, land the alternator feed on it and run...

Ok, and? Does not matter which leg carries more current or has less resistance. Doesn’t not matter which fusible link opens first. What matters is how much total current flows before any circuit protection reacts and will any segments of conductors in any part of the newly created parallel...