Recent content by archangel

Thanks, devinism!

Would someone with a Charger/Super Bee Rallye dash please confirm that this is indeed the factory correct knob for the clock? I am looking for a knob from my '70 Super Bee Rallye dash clock.

More findings to back up what has already been said. Based on the factory parts manual all 15 are the same, P/N 6028399. Note that the acorn nuts are not the same as those used on the side marker lights when speaking of the '70 Coronet/Super Bee, P/N 6027625. Guessing maybe that they are a...

Here is an example of both lengths used. 2 long, 13 short are required. The shorter one is exactly the same as the longer with the exception of stud length. All of them should have the rubber donut seal. The one in the picture is compressed and dried out. I am hoping to make some all Mopar...

Here are some pictures of what I believe to be one of the factory studs. This is one of the two longer studs that anchor the top ends of the trim panel. I will have more examples to compare to later this week and will update my findings.

Did they have some sort of sealer in the cup portion? I will post some pics of the factory studs later this weekend.

What type of nuts did the factory use to secure the rear trim panel on a 1970 Super Bee or Coronet. A picture of originals would be appreciated. Context: I believe that my Bee had been rear ended early in it's life and the rear trim panel was replaced with one for a Coronet using...

Perfect, thank you!

I am interested. PayPal okay?

Are the wiper squinters still available?

The gap is a bit more pronounced at the top and bottom of the indicator window. Just seems like debris would easily collect in the space. My plastic pry tool tip is quite thin.

Admittedly an off-the-wall question. I am reassembling my center console top plate assembly for my '70 Bee. Specifically the auto shifter hole "plate'" or unit that mounts from underneath. When I seat the assembly I notice that there is a small air gap around the top side of the gear select...

Wow, I am impressed. Factory look but with great durability and rust prevention. At the start I decided to replicate factory methods, with their inherent drawbacks, as much as practical for an amateur restorer (myself) but have rethought my decision more than once. Oh well, I have to remind...

I am also a first timer but not quite as far along as you. Hopefully mine will turn out as nice looking as yours. Several questions: Where did you find NOS parts? I could only find NOS Moog parts. Did you dip your LCAs? With respect to the LCA pivot shaft holes in the K-Member...did you clean...

Thank you.