Recent content by Daliant

It has a 4bbl intake with an adaptor plate for a 2bbl

Keep it down by you... lol

I noticed that too, looks like a late 50's GMC cannonball cab up front and VW bus in the rear. Just like a mullet, business up front, party in the back.

A 4 pin ignition box will work on a 5 pin system w/ dual ballast resistor. A 5 pin ignition box will not work on a 4 pin system w/ single ballast resistor. All factory style ignition boxes must be grounded to function.

It's got one hell of a body lift kit on it, I'm guessing the cab still has the small tunnel from when it was 2wd. Can't tell what transfer case it has, hopefully not the full-time 4wd one and it has lockout hubs up front. Looks like dana 60's front and rear, probably 4.10 gears in it.

Plan on getting about 8 miles per gallon with that thing.

Try the valve cover with bolts instead of studs, see if the cover will come on and off without the studs in the way.

The 68 k frame takes a different style idler arm than the 66, you'll need to use the later style arm.

Slap that thing in straight up, it's good with iron intake/exhaust manifolds . It's a pretty tame cam, good for a little bump in HP on a stock engine.

I suspect the quality of the shoe has changed in the last 20 years. Have you ever tried a set of insoles? Although any type of insert is going to inherently make the shoe feel narrower, but it might take pressure off of one area and transfer it to another.

Here's my 2 cents, monday morning quarterback assessment of the situation, you've got a couple of issues that are stacking up against you. #1: oil pressure is slow to come up upon first start when cold/ been sitting for a while usually is an oil filter drain-back issue or a weak oil pump or...

Got any pictures? There could be more going on than just caster angle. If the caster is that far off you might want to cut the spring perches off and weld new ones on at the right angle, this is assuming it's a tube axle.

Anything you manage to dislodge from the pickup will just be sucked back in as soon as you start the engine, even if you flush the pan and change the oil, it won't help. I've tried cleaning pickup tubes before while removed from the engine and you wouldn't believe all the bits of broken plastic...

Put a windage tray and a baffled oil pan in that thing before you spin a bearing, sounds like you're driving the car in a fairly spirited manner and the oil is sloshing around in the pan uncovering the oil pump pickup momentarily, a gulp of air into the oil pump = no oil pressure.

Yes, this isn't texas you're not drilling for oil, just enough clearance for the input shaft.