Recent content by Doorkicker

Well...the main point for the TF heads is airflow. If not using a performance intake, it's kinda a waste. I would think rpm performer would be a min. If you go original iron... you're not going to take any advantage of the heads or cam.

Yep! Piston to valve. If you have a bore scope you might see a mark on the piston and/or valve. There can be contact that's hard to see with new pistons. I don't see your lift being an issue...those heads are good to .680... And the cam isn't aggressive so I'm rethinking if its p2v. Just seems...

post cam specs... and share the 240 part number... there are actually three different types of 240's. Gut reaction... - Too much lift for the spring/head, so your binding up. Especially with 1.6 rockers. - P2V. Even minor at 5000+RPM can cause a bend and worse with 1.6 rockers. - Wrong size...

I've read this several times to make sure I'm understanding you... and i think I'm there. I will say that the marker jumping back before moving forward is likely just the inductive pickup. Each timing light has different levels of accuracy. If it's SUPER consistent, then I would check for a lose...

Timing is impacted by a few characteristics, such as compression ratio - static and dynamic, arguably - chamber design, piston design, and cam specs, such as duration, LSA, and especially overlap. Nevertheless, most engines will have 12-15 initial timing. It all come down to what total timing...

Using the torsion bar as the base?

Best to mark the tube, pull the headers, and bend the header tubes on a bench. The jack will almost certainly mess up the torsion bar. Depending on how bad they're rubbing, my first try (to avoid removing the headers) would be to heat up the tube and hit with a hammer.

wow.. those boxes are expensive!

Just my $0.02... ---Question #1 - Mostly relates to aftermarket wiring kits. To run wires directly from fuse block / dash harness direct to loads (lights, ignition, sensors, and such), or to break the wiring up into harnesses (rear / tailights, front/head lights, engine, and such). I make my...

Yowzers! Note to self :)

I'm fairly certain if you have a disk/drum master, all you need in the distribution block. 1967-70 Mopar B-body Distribution Block, Disc or Drum

I run and really like the MT's... Mickey Thompson 255612 Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S Tires | Summit Racing

I did the "feed from a gas can" test and same results. It's the pump. And I checked the push rod length and it's good to go As far as electric pump, my cars are throttle body injection. Which this one will be by Thanksgiving:) I actually have a Sniper on the bench.... So, kinda a no-brainer...

Frankly, that's why all my cars - except this one - have electric fuel pumps. I just don't trust'em. Odd right? Most folks hate electric pumps... but I avoid cheap ones. I think the "low buck" mechanical pump got me here, but we'll see.

I may have missed someone else suggesting this, but I would check the rear shaft bearing. Not hard to do with it in the car.