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Is that touching at full lock? How much interference is occurring once it makes contact? If it's minimal, and you're not road racing this 68, I wouldn't even worry about it.
I'd recommend... after you put in the helicoil (preferred) or timesert, I'd consider using a stud as opposed to a bolt moving forward. It puts less wear and tear on the insert when removing and installing heads in the future. The hole is blind (does not go into the water jacket) and the bolt is...
The floating pin is only easy to mess up because you fail to put the locking rings in or correctly. If so, the pin would slap the cylinder wall... but would that create a consistent knocking? and without spark? Dunno.
As for press fit... it's super easy to jack that up because it's easy to...
Ok... cool... we can move away from the flywheel, fuel pump, pulleys, and drive gear/bushing.
- As for the oil pump. I'm all about the gasket because if there is a leak, well you won't know other than low oil psi. Nevertheless, if the internal and/or the outer rotors are worn badly or loose...
@72RobCharger ... ok... I'm going crazy over here :)
In summary... just generalizing where we're at...
- timing is ok and no change if advanced or retarded (seems to "reduce" the pre-ignition concern)
- no change when pulling plug wires one at a time (seems to eliminate rod or piston problems...
wow... ok... you can definitely hear it.
If I was right there with you I would...
1) check timing to see what total is just to be sure.
2) start pulling plug wires cylinder by cylinder and reving to see if it goes away
There is a tiny part of me that thinks it's in the piston (wrist pin...
If the crank is a bit "lose" fore and aft the engine will still last - in fact, some high horsepower motors will have a touch of extra clearance on the thrust bearing. But if too much eventually that thrust bearing will give in to the beating and it will progressively get louder. The engine will...
Check the crank seat... basically, how far forward and aft does it move when not running. Some engines, if built a little lose, will have a crank knock at around 2500-3000 due to thrust bearing clearance. Will sound like a rod knock. HTH
Yes you can change the rear seal with the engine in the car... I've done to several of mine. While technically not always necessary, but it's typically easier to remove the oil pan once you drop the drag link. Anyway, it's totally doable... it's just a bit of a tight space.
A bit of a silly question, but I want to put some stickers (like the ones you get from COMPCams, Holley, Wilwood, etc.) on the passenger window of my car but I want to be able to remove them and reapply them for car shows, races, etc.
I was looking at clear vinyl with a temporary adhesive as a...
So, I suspected/expected that would be the response, but I think what we're really talking about isn't necessarily just time, but also RPM, specifically cranking RPM. In most cases, you'll get oil pressure fairly soon. Anyway, thanks for confirming.