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Thanks that’s what I ended up doing.Mine are original doors, used a 68 door on the driver side and had to move the door lock back on the inside. Just was concerned about how many knee and hip closures were put into the sides of them in the past.
I would think it about has to be , it’s driving me crazy. I’m seeing the bottom of the door as straight and pretty much straight at the very top but seems to transition to a swoop the further you get to the middle.
On my 69 road runner doors how much if any swoop is there when you lay a 48” straight edge along the mid section (front to back) mine seem to suggest the rear third starts to concave then flares back out at the back end of the door. Maybe it’s supposed to be straight and suffers from fat chicks...
If you are fairly on center go to the largest drill bit you can,not to exceed actual tap drill size. You should be able to eyeball how on center you are. If you got it off to one side and are at the root of the female thread grind the blade to fit. Using a caping chisel or punch concentrate on...
Mine done the same thing. I drilled through the center to just short of tap drill size then used a hacksaw blade to split it and collapse the remains..
Looking for a relatively rust free front bench seat frame and springs 69 2dr b body. I’m in Topeka KS and will drive a reasonable distance for a face to face deal.