Recent content by gkent

Those aren't what he's looking for.

Sounds like you got metric ****

There are two ends to each belt !! Three belts - 4 holes !

You need to install the seat belt anchors if you intend to put belts back in. You also need to re-install the tabs that hold the seat back in place. But since the car is painted you'd likely have to screw those in place. Mine with the seay installed:

To the frame rails.

What master are you using ?

Piece of cake. I did mine with all the material still in place. Only the seat back needs to be modified - not the seat bottom. The only mods needed were a couple pieces of the wire on the back side - cut, bent inward then re-welded. I seem to recall only a couple small welds - one or two on each...

Don't be so hard on the mechanic, he's just covering his ***. The last thing he needs to do is misquote the job and have the customer hold him to it! Its not every day someone brings a '70's classic into a shop for repairs and these days there aren't many mechanics around that have ever worked...

Area around the taillight will be different. If they're cheap, why not give 'em a try! One lesson I learned - replace as little of the sheet metal as possible !!

WAY overkill !!!

A relay is always a smart idea. A fuse between the relay and the pump. Trigger the relay with ground - that way you don't have 12 volts running through the switch.

open your hood and measure the height of the frame rails on each side. They should be damn near equal side-to-side. A low left front will yeild a high right rear

Got a torque wrench that goes that high ?!?!

Wish I'd had that a week ago !!!!!!!

HOWEVER, you may require spacers on either side of the shock in the crossmember spacers on either side of the shock in the crossmember. The sleeves in the bushings on replacement shocks may be too short to fill the space in the crossmember.