Recent content by jonny0666

I ditched the proportioning valve for an adjustable and a mechanical T for the fronts.

Still having an issue with my brakes locking up. I figure it’s the residual valve. Ive tried everything to get the damn thing out and I'm on the verge of destroying this master. I’ve heard I can just use a 4 wheel drum master cylinder and that could solve my problems. Any truth to this? Thanks.

... if it works. I’ll give it a shot. Thanks. And I’ll look into the master as well.

Yeah I’ve read that you can use a paper clip and burn open the residual valve... or is it worth it to try and remove it?

I’m using a drum/disc MC. So you just by-pass the distribution valve and use an adjustable instead?

Recently I did a 4 wheel conversion on my car. I used the Right Stuff conversion kit from Classic Industries. Originally a 4 wheel drum car. Swapped out the booster and master cylinder for disc/drum. Then decided to go full balls to the wall and got the rear conversion. Slapped it all together...

I had fraudulent charges a few years ago. 3 days after i made the complaint i was reimbursed.

I stand corrected. Still, check the block connections.

Happy Halloween

Check the dimmer switch. They go bad. Check the feeds on the wire side (opposite the fuse side) of the bulk head block, i had a burnt connector there for my 71, took me weeks to find it. check the cluster ground. Then check the fuses.

I believe that’s the C pillar inner support structure. I don’t believe those are reproduced to my knowledge.

its potmetal, i believe. that or aluminum. I put the probe on the bulb, just on top of the socket, the brass bottom that sticks out from the socket a bit. I will have to check the contact points and the grounds.

interesting...

Ok. I’ll check that too.

I’ll check the socket. Grounds are good. Besides probe would have grounded it, no?