Recent content by lewtot184

My r/t has a 3/8 pickup-sending unit (original to the car),but came with 5/16 tank to pump.

Meant what i said.

The original fuel supply lines for my 69 r/t were 5/16 front to back. 1/4" return line. I have the original fuei pump off my r/t and it has a 5/16 nipple for tank to pump, 1/8" pipe outlet for a brass 5/16 inverted flare fitting for pump to carb. Never seen a factory 440 with 3/8" lines. 3/8"...

You've got a lousy mechanic. It's simple and much cheaper to learn what you have. Those holleys aren't rocket science. I've always considered holleys one step above a lawn mower carb because they have a cruise circut. Why blow $500-$600 when you have in your hand all you need?

Use it. Probably a 750 DP. Should be a number on the choke tower. Try that carb first before you blow money on something else.

1407's

The two 750's i bought earlier this year did need work as they came out of the box. Float settings were way off. The carb i use as a primary had the primary throttle blades in crooked. A novice would have never figured that out. The jets looked like some monkey with a screw driver installed...

I run two 750 edelbrocks on my 65 dodge. No hiccups, stumbles, etc. I love "too much cfm"; it pegs the fun meter. My other car is a stock 440; definitely cfm challenged.

Yep. Way too much cfm . Maybe a stromberg 97 would tone that down.

Think outside the box.

Get rid of the button if your sure you have a flat tappet cam.

Squealing

Any cam upgrade will need springs changed. Stock springs won't handle much lift. If your not up to spring changing try to stay with .460" maximun lift at the valve. Truth is if you not going to upgrade anything else a stock magnum cam or the mopar 272/.455 aren't bad choices. I did the small...

Shouldn't need a cam button for a flat tappet cam, and i never use a metal button when i've done roller stuff. I did have a cam bolt (single bolt cam) rub once. Drove me crazy figuring it out.

Preignition and detonation are two diferent things. Preignition can be instant death for the engine. Detonation takes a little longer to kill things. I use quench distance for detonation resistance. Some folks get quench distance a little distorted. .040" is the minimum, not the target. .060" is...