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J11y is the better plug but haven't been manufactured in decades. I use autolite 85's as a substitute. OEM wires would have been 7mm carbon core; farly high resistance. J11y plugs were non- resistor, 85's are resistor. OEM wire plus the 85 plug will have more resistance than original. It may be...
i drill a hole on each side of the blocked heat crossover to allow for some heat and to keep the automatic choke working. some climates may be ok with the heat totally blocked but if temps get around 50f or lower that iron intake wants heat. aluminum intakes are a little more flexible. generally...
One of the first places i look at when idle or low speed problems occur is the idle/ low speed jets. They're usually pretty small and doesn't take much to clog them. I always keep a set of the small drill bits around to run thru them and clean the sediment out.
The design helix on the cam gear and intermediate shaft are designed for downward thrust. Any vertical thrust would damage the distributor. To verify this all one has to do is look at the thrust surface on the bushing. I fell for the vertcal thrust thing years ago and did the collar on the...
The ohms on my factory sending unit in the 440 in my 69 r/ t is 196 at room temps. The autometer sender i use in the car is192. I have an aftermarket that reads 180. I can' t specifically recommend anything. Aftermarket is a crap shoot.
from my continuing experience with a stock iron intake they quit around 4000rpm with a stock displacement engine. you may rev them higher but they're not doing anything. good off idle/mid-range intake and that's about as good as it gets.
i know the goal says 700hp, but i didn't notice exhaust...
Pretty close. The r/t was 3880 when i weighed it many years ago without me in it. Don't remember exact configuration. The '65 was 3780 without me in it when first put together in 2003. Since then i've done alum heads and wheels.