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The next thing about being in the hobby forever are items others threw away.
An acquaintance put headers on his 1968 GTX along with a new factory exhaust.
I got the discards.
Bite the bullet and pull the motor.
Check bellhousing freeze plugs, rear main seal, oil pan gaskets, motor mounts.
Also consider opening the block drain plugs to get rid of accumulated water jacket gunk.
Do 5.9 Magnum motors have the ears for motor mounts?
I had a B&M flex plate for using a LA360 with a regular torque converter.
Are you saying the 5.9 flex plate has the balance weight instead of the torque converter?
Sold it and the pieces of 360.
I had one of those manifolds on my 1964 Plymouth convertible using a 1967 383 AFB bought from a Chrysler dealership.
The ears were drilled for both mounting bolt patterns, I opened up the secondary hole to clear the throttle blades on the carb.
I can't remember if I did anything to the throttle...
I bought the solid state in a points regulator case type because too lazy to drill holes in firewall.
Also ran a wire from regulator mounting screw to ignition coil mounting bolt.
Works good with original 35 amp alternator.
Nice find you got there. To run an AVS you'll need an adapter that will add height and lessen hood clearance.
As with a lot of early parts there is no provision to mount the ignition coil and you'll have to fabricate a throttle cable bracket.
The carb issues due to ethanol gas?
There are rebuild...
During their life dealers took care of oil leaked by tightening the rocker cover bols rather than replacing gaskets, backyard mechanics did likewise.
Check the cover flange with a straight edge and gently hammer flat.
The get those rocker cover reenforcemets GM uses.
Most wheels around today have the stud holes worn oversized due the repeated impact wrench use.
Also tire changers used by salvage yards aren't the best and destroyed wheels I was going to buy.
We have one left, and unused G78x14 out of a 1974 Plymouth, everything else removed from vehicles we...