Recent content by R/T Boy 67

Did the oil light come on or the gauge read zero ? Is that how you discovered you were low on oil? If the suction tube is on the bottom of the pan, you should still have oil pressure with 3.5 quarts. A lot of 440s only had 4 quart pans.

You don't want it rubbing up against the other terminal either.

The hold down bolt is also a vent. Make sure it is not plugged.

It wouldn't hurt to give it a good look while the engine is out. The service manual has measurements of the unibody. It is possible that the whole front clip was replaced.

As noted above, the rear Shackle mounting point is 1" farther back on a dodge.

I'm glad it all worked out for you.

Thank you.

I'm guilty of not looking at the adds, before I made my comment. I am Canadian, so I apologize.

The 7-1 -68 is the closest to the original manifold, so use thar one. Any manifold with a casting date two weeks to a month before the engine build date would be perfect. I had an engine with a block casting date one week before the engine build date.

The numbers are not on the trunk lip in 66-67. See above posts, with pictures.

Factory parts and shop manuals, are sometimes wrong, and are not necessarily the last word.

The undercoating looks fresh, so mineral spirits might work. If not, try heat and a scraper. You only need to see a couple of digits to see if it matches the rad support, vs the IBM card. The location of the stamp is not exact, but it should be in the general area, mine was not under the bumper...

Not that it matters, but the VIN code D is a 273.

I believe the 67 bearing is a one year deal, and very hard to find. You might be able to make a 68 up one work.

The rear body code is on the rear crossmember, usually between the two bumper brackets. If it is rusty in that area you might not be able to see it. If you can't find it, then the rad support is all you have. If it looks factory original then I would have to say, VIN swap.