Recent content by R/T Boy 67

It is a 66 model year. It could be the 365 horsepower version, with dual exhaust. The engine code would be 82 on the fender tag

2951736 is a 1970 440 intake. A holley will bolt on, but you might need a thick gasket for accelerator pump clearance, and a throttle arm adapter for mopar linkage.

An edelbrock AFB type carb should bolt on, they have the two bolt patterns, but going to a newer intake will be better in the long run.

Flip it over and attach it to the manifold with Allen bolts.

Those marks are only to get you in the ballpark. You need to degree it into where you want it. There are some gear drives that don't have any marks, so I've read.

Engine oil would work. I torqued mine to 150, and then added some with my 1" drive ratchet. In your case since all the parts are the same, tightening up to the same marks should work, but a little oil would make it easier.

Did you lube up the threads? Torque spec is 240 foot pounds, or more correctly pounds feet.

In Brewer's description it states 66 up uses the lower location. At least that is the way I take it.

Yes, it is a six cyl. coronet 440. I've learned at least two mopar facts in the last week. I didn't know they used only the one digit on the fender tag to describe both six and eight cyl. cars, in 1965. I won't bore you with the other one.

There are 18 spline and 23 spline transmissions. You will pay a lot more for an 18 spline, but 23 is all you need for a stockish 383. You want a B body or E body trans for the correct tailshaft length. A 70 up trans uses the automatic crossmember. A 66 up trans with the slip yoke would make...

There is conflicting information on the tag, according to my source. The W in the W35 code means coronet 8, but 20 is the code for a 225 six cylinder. What is the first digit or letter on your VIN tag.

It was for a 1970 383- 4bbl, from the factory.

VIN starts with CE= Newport. CL= Newport custom.

Without taking it apart, you could push gently on the driver's side axle, and then have someone push on the thrust button with a broomstick from the other side, and the axle should move out against the bearing. If that happens then the thrust button is sliding okay. You could also fashion a way...

Does the thrust button move freely back and forth? And just for your info., the spline lining up thing has nothing to do with the carrier number. It is a sure grip thing.