Recent content by VAD Gold Rush

Hey all, I just figured I'd share my latest video which shows my 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring on its first trip to the drag strip since I installed the four speed. I hope you all enjoy.

My input: 1: 71 Plymouth Satellite Sebring/Roadrunner/GTX 2: 73 Dodge Charger 3: 70 Dodge Super Bee I'm personally surprised I put two Dodges on this list seeing as how I only have and only will have Plymouths. I obviously like the Fuselage body styling, though.

I'm getting my 71 Satellite ready for a drag race in September. It's currently running the stock oil pan. I'd like to get a decent oil pan with good baffling that won't drag the ground or cause fitment issues as this car will be returning to street duty after this race. What are you small...

I believe he does know about it. I made a post a few months back about the channel, and ended up on a list. As for my knowledge, I just have an intense interest, a car to play with and the internet at my disposal. I've been working on this car for almost 10 years now. My father is quite the...

I sure appreciate that. Half the time I feel like I come across as ignorant of what I'm doing.

I had to rebuild the upper control arms for my 71 Satellite. I whipped out the camera and filmed the process. I hope you all enjoy my tips and tricks for better alignment.

When I got a driveshaft for my a833 with 8 1/4 rear, I measured from the flat on the yoke to the end of the tailshaft. I sent the driveshaft shop the yoke and the measurements and the driveshaft fit first time.

Hey all, I just thought I'd share a fun, ride along/wrenching sort of video where I take my 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring for its first few drives with the freshly swapped a833. I hope you all enjoy.

The numbers I gave are good for both valves, but you can give the exhaust .002" extra lash if you feel safer doing that. One of my solid cams calls for .002" extra on the exhaust, another calls for same lash on both.

I would start at .025". That's a nice number given by many cam manufacturers. I'd say anywhere from .020"-.025" is safe.

Thanks a lot. I managed to fix the thread size for the z-bar pivot with the bellhousing in the car. I'm lucky to have been a machinist at one point so I had everything I need. I got the clutch fork pivot to work correctly with a bit of modification. In all, the car is back on the road.

I was able to find that old thread. I had a good look and it gave me a few ideas of where to look. I have tomorrow off, so I'll check it out and see what's going on.

That's all correct. The problem is inside the bellhousing. The pivot point for the clutch fork is too far away from the throwout bearing.

I'm using a Lakewood LK7000 bellhousing for the 4 speed swap in my 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring. I'm having problems getting my clutch fork to align properly. Does anyone on here have any suggestions from experience? I'm using a clutch fork from Brewer's Performance with the clutch pivot...

I'm sure those are beryllium seats. They're required for use with titanium valves.