Recent content by wyrmrider

That's nasty KD even the parkerizing did not over it up

efi check overlap and lca requirements can't say anything without the details like what eas mentioned abve and head flows, rockers etw

picture? would show any water just use your nose

or isky, crower, rhodes "lube saver " with the flat flat work go to fabo and pm shane at crower dart19666 he gives members good guy pricing

use 1/2 " oil proof hose 100 blate cooler with 1/2 in and out no tube and fin esp with a high stall converter and.or tall gears

Flat top pistons at 0 deck is most likely going to give you much more compression BVVC Marsh will need more info for a cam (converter, gears, what's the use, etc can you get the head flows do not worry about the timing set do worry about the springs- do they come with the heads? cheers

worth asking but give AJ all the details, real compression, where the intake closes at .006 (or .004 -- .050 is worthless) gears weight tires, usage, etc

good do you have the flows on your new heads?

stock base circle? Shane at Crower PM Dart19666 over on the fabo forum, Rhodes or other quality lifter vendeor IMHO you need a band you would have no oil when the lifter turns with just a hole but maybe that works I think we did the hole down near the bottom of the oil passage with the lifter on...

surley- but why???

only use scotchbright if the motor is apart and you are going to clean, clean, clean damn stuff is worse than glass bead those are iron heads best ask the experts but IMHO 11:1 would take a larger than necessary cam to cut the DCR

is that one gasket or one set There are also copper IDK of "block saver" thick shims for a hemi

so do you really need a bore and new pistons on a low mile rebuild do not think cam till you: know your true compression know the rpm range you want to run head flows what gas build for quench

or a worn cam lobe or cupped lifter better check cut your filter open check the drain plug magnet

just use LY rods and MP rod bolts 9:1 [email protected] Lunati voodoo