Recent content by XCELLR8

Found this on a Google search and that car looks a lot like this. Might have been a trim level trying to generate sales. As said, MOPAR was in sad shape in the late 70s.

Yeah it's hard to tell with all the brush. I see what looks like a split grill, but I don't see the little "opera" windows on the quarters. Googling 1977/78 Dodge Monaco comes up with what looks like is sitting in that yard. Looks to be a base model 2 door hardtop.

1977 Plymouth Fury 2 Door. Edit: Mr C is correct Looks to be a base model without the "opera" windows.

That is the same cover I have on my 1977 400. In my research, it was a one year only timing cover.

I have this cam kit in a 400 smogger motor. 8/1 CR. I agree with all replies above, need to know more and what your goal is. This is what I have: stock 1977 400 with 8/1 CR, performer intake, Edelbrock 800cfm carb, Stealth heads, Thumper cam kit, 1 5/8 long tube headers, Progression ignition...

I would like to finish this topic off and help someone with my experience. My ignition coil went bad and had a weak spark. Since 2015 I have changed 3 ignition boxes and two coils in this car and I had enough. I installed a Progression ignition system and got rid of the Chrysler ignition all...

To put an ending to this install and to help anyone else going forward, my issue was two fold. I went back through the set up and I was a couple degrees off, both in my crank rotation being set at 10* and not quite lined up on the black 10* marks on the distributor. Fixed all that and timing is...

I will need to go through the wiring. The car started out with the lean burn, switched to Mopar electric ignition before I bought it 28 years ago. I am switching to a Progression ignition unit that requires 12+ volts at all times. I ended up running a dedicated wire to the battery with a switch...

I went back and looked at the FSM for my car and the brown wire that is switched goes to the EGR timer not the ballast resister. The other brown wire out of the starter relay is the ballast resister bypass for starting. This car starts and runs, but every switched 12v wire is showing ~11 volts...

The car is a 1977 Cordoba with 400. I am trying to find a switched wire that has full 12 volts. In checking the car every wire that is switched only has ~11 volts. I have went to the starter relay and I have 12.6 volts on the red wire but when I go to the brown wire that goes to the ballast...

I could not get the car to idle at 10*, had to crank it up to 1600rpm. I started at 20* and worked up to 35* at idle. Timing light was the same as app's reading until I went to 32* the app went to 31* and the timing light was 31*. I went to 34* and then 35* in the app and timing in app was 31*...

I got my Progression unit in and started. I must say that is has changed the way my car idles and reacts to throttle blips. I have not driven it yet as I have some other things that need sorted. One thing I ran across in trying to up the idle timing is it won't go farther than 31*. When I set...

Thanks for the info. What brand spark plug wires did you use on the Progression unit.

I am looking at getting the Progression unit and wanting to know if the code you get is tied to you or the distributor? Can the code be transferred to a new owner, if you sell the car or motor? Funknut - Any updates on how its working.

Just an update. It was not my timing light that quit, it was my ignition system. I went to start the motor up the next day to continue tuning the carb, it was missing and backfiring out the exhaust. Motor would not idle only run badly if given throttle, then it would not run at all. Pulled #1...