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I'd call 440 Source and ask. We just went through this and are sitting at about .0045" and they said to run it but to not hang it at 8,000 rpm all day long.
I learned that machine shops usually under cut the bore by like .001 to make sure the piston to wall clearance is good. But in your case...
This is a random question but since your build is almost exactly like what I'm working on right now, are you using anything special on the bottom end? I'm talking billet main caps, ARP main studs, girdle?
I'm doing the RB version of this build but with 240 heads and a Sniper EFI. Same cam...
I'm wondering if you really need to run a "mellonized" intermediate shaft gear on a Hydraulic Roller cam. The cam is from Howards and they are telling me the Milodan 21505 would work just fine. Talking to 440 Source and they are saying mellonizing is an absolute must.
So whats the deal? I want...
I'm on my computer with a 1440p 32" monitor. I think I can see just fine. Where the bracket dips, it should be flush. Like the 1st picture I posted. The casting extends out and all I see is the casting take a 90 degree turn downward which is where you see the spark plug bracket.
A real easy/quick way to see if its a 440 is looking for the number pad on the drivers side right behind the water pump housing. It should look like this. The hole would be the bolt hole for the valley pan hold down on the drivers side front.
From the looks of your picture, this engine looks...
Running a PTC 3500 stall 9.5" converter behind a warmed over 440 and it does great. Kinda want a lower stall as this is a street car but it will have to do for now.
Surprised no one has mentioned:
Von Ryan's Express
The Sand Pebbles
Hell is for Hero's
I miss the days on TNT or TBS for Memorial Day/July4/Veterans Day that they played all the old classics all day long. Hardly ever see the classic war movies on TV anymore.