67 Belvedere with factory AC

Hi guys, I'm converting a 67 Belvedere with factory AC to the modern compressor, lines, condenser, drier, and expansion valve.

The water shut off valve leaks, and is currently bypassed. I need to do something with it. I could send it out and have it rebuilt, but that would require taking the heater box out. Something I'm trying to avoid. At least I think you have to remove the box. Has anyone ever taken the valve out of the firewall from the engine side? It kind of teases you, but there is supposed to be a cable and capillary tube attached.

I'm wondering what other ways anyone here has tackled the problem. I'm not worried about factory appearance, just function. So I was thinking of trying to put a vacuum operated one inline and splicing it to the appropriate hose inside.

I'd love to hear anyone's ideas.

That cap tube is REAL easy to break, and it's a pain to get at the connection for it.

Sorry I can't be more help.

I broke mine just as I thought I had it pulled out far enough to undo the connection.

Finding a new/used one is iffy and could be expensive.

You should be able to remove the 3 screws from the firewall and pull it out far enough to remove the cable. If you remove the 2 screws attaching the cap tube sensor from the heater box, you can pull the whole unit out. If you can't pull it away from the firewall enough to remove the cable, you may have to un hook the cable from the slide control to get enough slack. The capilary tube is removable from the water valve as it just plugs in. I sent mine to Jim Tucker in Valley Center, CA and he rebuilt it. Cost $95.00 plus shipping but is about the only way to keep things original. Here are some pics of the before and after on mine.
Jim's number is 760 749 3488

On my 73, the PO had it converted.

I don't see any replacement parts other than a new dryer and the gauge/vlave fittings.

It cools just fine in the Florida 95-105* summer.

Thank you sixpack for the pictures, they really help. I have to go digging, as I might have one to experiment on taking apart.

I didn't mention this before, but it is a friends car, and he wanted to put the newer compressor in for efficiency, but now that sounds counter intuitive. I didn't know the newer ones flowed less, thanks A383. The old compressor, and a few of the lines were bad, so we thought this would be the best way to repair the system. We already have a complete underhood system on the way.

Does anyone know exactly what the capillary tube does? I couldn't find anything on it in the service manual. My guess is to prevent the heater core from freezing?

Rich - you should replace the condenser with one designed for use with R134. It will work much better. You can have the factory hoses modified to use with a modern compressor or have some made up at a hose shop. I converted my old Dart by installing R134 adapter fittings keeping all the 35 year old components and it worked OK. It also helps to seal the condenser to the radiator to force ALL the air thru the condenser - especially when the car is stoppped.

Thanks Jeff, we did get a new condenser too. I admit this is an experiment as well. We wanted to try all new stuff at least once. Since I do hvac, I know I can get this together correctly. I'm just trying to figure out what on earth that capillary tube actually does.

At this point, I think I'm going to get a vacuum water valve and see if everything works correctly. I have a bad habit of modifying things even when I'm told it won't work. LOL That's how I built my 4x4 ford van with a Cummins in it.

Vintage auto Inc. had these

The flow of water to your heater is controlled by a water control valve. These valves vary from a head mounted cable type to capillary and vacuum units. If they leak, coolant is spilled out, often onto your carpet, leaving a mess. Refer to the price chart below after looking up your heater control valve number in the following charts.
Number Series Price
900 series manual valves $46.50
900 series vacuum valves $69.50
1200 series Thermo-Pill valves, exchange (1200 series valves are sold exchange with your old one. Add $30.00 without it.) $135.00
1900 series, vacuum or cable type $69.50
DODGE & PLYMOUTH
Year Model Type Part No.
1949-52 70, 71, & 300 heaters Manual H980
SOLD OUT

1949-54 103, 104, 500, 501, 502, 503, 504, 505, 506, & 550 heaters Thermo-Pill H1205
SOLD OUT

1953-54 Dodge 600, 601, 602, 603, 604, & 605 heaters Thermo-Pill H1220
1955-58 701, 702, & 704 heaters Thermo-Pill H1219
SOLD OUT

1955-58 705 heater Thermo-Pill H1275
SOLD OUT

1959 All w/ hot water heater Thermo-Pill H1240
1960 716 heater Cable Oper. H982
SOLD OUT

1961-62 Recirculating heater Hand Oper. H980
SOLD OUT

1962 719 heater Thermo-Pill H1245
1960-64 715 heater Thermo-Pill H1218
SOLD OUT

1962-64 720 & 727 heater Thermo-Pill H1246
SOLD OUT

1962-64 Air conditioned: 880 Thermo-Pill H1218
Air conditioned: except 880 Vacuum H997
SOLD OUT

1965-67 Air conditioned Thermo-Pill
H1279

1968 All air conditioned Thermo-Pill
H1279

All includes sensing unit Vacuum H1997
All except AC Cable Oper. H1990
SOLD OUT

1969-70 Auto temperature control: includes sensing unit Vacuum H1961
SOLD OUT

1969-71 Manual control AC Vacuum


H1949

1972 Air conditioned Cable Oper. H1948
1973 Air conditioned w/ removable bracket Cable Oper. H1948
Air conditioned w/ integral bracket Cable Oper. H1919
1974 All heater or manual control air cond. Vacuum H1909
All auto temperature control (includes sensing unit) Vacuum H1906
Coronet, Charger, Belvedere, & Satellite Back to Top
1965 Air conditioned Thermo-Pill
H1279

Vacuum H977
1965-66 Exc. air conditioned Thermo-Pill H1246
SOLD OUT

1966-67 Air conditioned Thermo-Pill H1280
SOLD OUT

1965-70 Exc. air conditioned (for 3 hoses) Cable Oper. H1990
SOLD OUT

1968-69 Air conditioned Thermo-Pill H1281
1970 Air conditioned Thermo-Pill H1282
1971 Air conditioned Vacuum


H1949

1972-73 Air conditioned Cable Oper. H1948
1974 Air conditioned Cable Oper. H1917
Challenger & Barracuda Back to Top
1967-69 All Cable Oper. H1983
SOLD OUT

1970-73 Air conditioned Cable Oper. H1948
1974 Air conditioned Cable Oper. H1918
Dart, Lancer, & Valiant Back to Top
1961-62 All Thermo-Pill H1245
SOLD OUT

1967-69 All Cable Oper. H1983
SOLD OUT

1970-71 Air conditioned Cable Oper. H1954
SOLD OUT

CHRYSLER & DESOTO Back to Top
Year Model Type Part No.
1949-52 70, 71, & 300 heaters Manual H980
SOLD OUT

1949-54 103, 500, 501, 502, 503, 504, & 550 heaters Thermo-Pill H1205
SOLD OUT

1953-54 600, 601, 602, 603, 604, & 605 heaters Thermo-Pill H1220
1955-58 701, 702, & 704 heaters Thermo-Pill H1219
SOLD OUT

1955-58 705 heater Thermo-Pill H1275
SOLD OUT

1959 All w/ hot water heater Thermo-Pill H1240
1960-64 All Thermo-Pill H1218
SOLD OUT

1965-67 All Thermo-Pill
H1279

1968 All except air conditioned Thermo-Pill
H1279

Cable Oper. H1990
SOLD OUT

All air conditioned (includes sensing unit) Vacuum H1997
1968-70 Service kit for uto temperature control valve Sensing Unit H1964
1969-70 Auto temperature control (includes sensing unit) Vacuum H1961
SOLD OUT

1969-71 Manual control air conditioner Vacuum


H1949

1969-71 Rear heater Cable Oper. H1955
SOLD OUT

1972 Air conditioner Cable Oper. H1948
1972-73 Rear heater: -1/2" x 5/8" hose Cable Oper. H1955
SOLD OUT

1973 Air conditioned with removable bracket Cable Oper H1948
Air conditioned with integral bracket Cable Oper. H1919
1974 All heater or manual control air cond. Vacuum H1909
All auto temperature control (includes sensing unit) Vacuum H1906
Imperial Back to Top
1960-66 All Thermo-Pill H1218
1967-68 All Thermo-Pill
H1279

Air conditioned (includes sensing unit) Vacuum H1997
Except air conditioning, 1968 Cable Oper. H1990
SOLD OUT

1968-70 Service kit for Auto temperature control valve Sensing unit H1964
1969-70 Auto temperature control (includes sensing unit) Vacuum H1961
SOLD OUT

1969-71 Manual control air conditioner Vacuum


H1949

1969-71 Rear heater Cable Oper. H1955
SOLD OUT

1972 Air conditioned Cable Oper. H1948
1972-73 Rear heater: -1/2" x 5/8" hose Cable Oper. H1955
SOLD OUT

1974 Auto temperature control (includes sensing unit) Vacuum H1906
1974 Air conditioned Cable Oper. H1918
Dart, Lancer, & Valiant Back to Top
1961-62 All Thermo-Pill H1245
1967-69 All Cable Oper. H1983
SOLD OUT

1970-71 Air conditioned Cable Oper. H1954
SOLD OUT

CHRYSLER & DESOTO Back to Top
Year Model Type Part No.
1949-52 70, 71, & 300 heaters Manual H980
SOLD OUT

1949-54 103, 500, 501, 502, 503, 504, & 550 heaters Thermo-Pill H1205
SOLD OUT

1953-54 600, 601, 602, 603, 604, & 605 heaters Thermo-Pill H1220
1955-58 701, 702, & 704 heaters Thermo-Pill H1219
SOLD OUT

1955-58 705 heater Thermo-Pill H1275
SOLD OUT

1959 All w/ hot water heater Thermo-Pill H1240
1960-64 All Thermo-Pill H1218
SOLD OUT

1965-67 All Thermo-Pill
H1279

1968 All exc. air conditioned Thermo-Pill
H1279

Cable Oper. H1990
SOLD OUT

All air conditioned (includes sensing unit) Vacuum H1997
1968-70 Service kit for Auto temperature control valve Sensing Unit H1964
1969-70 Auto temperature control (includes sensing unit) Vacuum H1961
SOLD OUT

1969-71 Manual control air conditioner Vacuum


H1949

1969-71 Rear heater Cable Oper. H1955
SOLD OUT

1972 Air conditioner Cable Oper. H1948
1972-73 Rear heater: -1/2" x 5/8" hose Cable Oper. H1955
SOLD OUT

1973 Air conditioned with removable bracket Cable Oper H1948
Air conditioned with integral bracket Cable Oper. H1919
1974 All heater or manual control air cond. Vacuum H1909
All auto temperature control (includes sensing unit) Vacuum H1906
Imperial Back to Top
1960-66 All Thermo-Pill H1218
1967-68 All Thermo-Pill
H1279

Air conditioned (includes sensing unit) Vacuum H1997
Except air conditioning, 1968 Cable Oper. H1990
SOLD OUT

1968-70 Service kit for Auto temperature control valve Sensing unit H1964
1969-70 Auto temperature control (includes sensing unit) Vacuum H1961
SOLD OUT

1969-71 Manual control air conditioner Vacuum


H1949

1969-71 Rear heater Cable Oper. H1955
SOLD OUT

1972 Air conditioned Cable Oper. H1948
1972-73 Rear heater: -1/2" x 5/8" hose Cable Oper. H1955
SOLD OUT

1974 Auto temperature control (includes sensing unit) Vacuum H1906
Heater Shutoff Valves Back to Top
Mechanical heater shutoff valves mount on head, manifold, or in the hose.
1/2" pipe head or manifold mounted Dash cable type $46.50
5/8" inline hose mounted thumbscrew type $14.75
Back to Top

I got one from a RV parts dealer.

They had several and we has to physically look at them to see which was the best fit.

I also had to extend the cable mount to get a better angle, so the cable wouldn't bind.

be carefull as some are push open and some are pull open.

IIRC it was $12, and made of engineering plastic to help curb corrosion.

Thanks, I was thinking of using a vacuum operated one so I don't have to mess with the cable. But I'm still not sure if the water valve regulates temp on heat or just shuts off the flow completely for AC.

A383Wing said:

the original triangle water valve on the firewall is operated by the temp cable on the dash. It regulates the flow of water into the heater core for more or less heat into cabin

Click to expand...

Thank you, I didn't know that, so adding a vacuum one will not work.

Thanks again, I didn't realize the cable will reach. I tried puling it and it wouldn't come out an more. I'll have to dig around under the dash a little.

Thanks, I'll dig into it and see what I can do.

If you go with an aftermarket valve mounted in the engine compartment, you will need a longer cable. The existing cable will not be long enough. Plus, you will have to deal with the large hole in the firewall where your existing valve is mounted. If you want to stay with the stock valve, I can send you the one in the above pictures that I had rebuilt. It cost me $109.00 to get it back from California. My car will not be going back together until next spring and I have a couple more of these valves that I can have rebuilt.
I know it is spendy but it solves your problem. Another problem you may run into is the valve that is located on the heater core inside the heater box itself. Mine was stuck and needed to be replaced. That was another $82.00. Maybe yours is ok but if is hard to operate, the vacuum actuator will not be able to move it.
Here is a picture of the heater core valve.

I haven't had the heater box out, so I'm not familiar with this picture. If that's a vacuum operated valve then that's the one I thought I was trying to shut off.

Do you know why there are two valves.

I knew this was not going to be easy!