opinions on 383/496 stroker

daytona kid · Feb 8, 2015

Along with other possible motors, I'm also still considering the option of rebuilding my original 383 that came with my 68 charger. I see 440 source makes a 496 stroker kit for the 383. The reason I'm thinking about this is that it would help the value of my car if I keep the original motor in it, and I could still race it a little with some decent hp. Do you guys think a 383 will stay together long if I try to get about 500hp out of it? Any experienced info appreciated.

lewtot184 · Feb 8, 2015

if you have a numbers matching block and are concerned about value; set it aside and race on something that won't de-value the car if it's busted.

daytona kid · Feb 8, 2015

Yea, I was thinking that way about it but it's not exactly a matching #s motor. It is the motor that came in the car from the factory but it was before they started match numbering the motors to the cars. Just looking for/at the pros and cons of all my options.

Xp29h · Feb 9, 2015

If you think the 383 will add overall value to the car then I would take it out and set it aside and run something different just in case as lew.. stated. But if not, I hear the 496 stroker kit will do a pretty good job for the 383.

rumblefish360 · Feb 9, 2015

IMO,'the best way to go about this issue is to purchase another block and build the "Hot" engine from there. This way there is little down time, no value loss to the car and you can have a ton-O-fun while your at it without ever saying to yourself, "I wonder....."

MoparMitch · Feb 9, 2015

daytona kid said:
Yea, I was thinking that way about it but it's not exactly a matching #s motor. It is the motor that came in the car from the factory but it was before they started match numbering the motors to the cars. Just looking for/at the pros and cons of all my options.

Did you know that the numbers on 68 blocks is not located on the block near the oil pan rail ?. If it is stamped, you will find it on the top of the block at the rear, just next to the oil sensor hole. This will be on the edge of the block where it meets the transmission or bell housing.

lewtot184 · Feb 9, 2015

68chicken said:
Did you know that the numbers on 68 blocks is not located on the block near the oil pan rail ?. If it is stamped, you will find it on the top of the block at the rear, just next to the oil sensor hole. This will be on the edge of the block where it meets the transmission or bell housing.

this is correct. if the block came with the car when it was built then it will have a VIN, mandated by federal law, to much the body VIN. trash the block and it's no longer a numbers matching car.

cdr · Feb 9, 2015

a big part of 68 had no stamping on the engine.

Budnicks · Feb 9, 2015

I've built several 383 strokers 3.75" {440 crank ground to B block specs}
3.95" {offset ground 440 crank with 2.20" Chevy rods}
4.15" a couple 0.040"/4.290" bore 383/479ci
4.25" most issues with clearance & custom parts needed, no big deal thou
I haven't had any block failures,
have the crankshaft radius machined down to 7.125" or less
lighter crank, makes balancing somewhat easier & block clearance better
I also use a block girdle, good oil pump & pan etc.
use good rods, make sure it's line honed/bored straight etc.
have someone who "actually" knows Mopars do the machining,
not the local yokel, unless he knows his stuff

But
the 383 has "allegedly" the weakest of the B-series/Low deck mains/webbing,
the 400 has strongest mains & webbing, in stock form
the 383 is "allegedly" slightly stronger than the 440 mains, smaller line bore/surface area, less webbing area to break

I have a stroker using my OE #'s matching block,
but I don't realty worry about #'s matching stuff really,
I haven't ever broke a 383 block either....

good luck what ever you decide to do

lewtot184 · Feb 9, 2015

hugh's sells the PEP rods. i have two sets of 440 source rods, they're chinese.

66Satellite47 · Feb 9, 2015

If it's the original from the car, keep it & build a new one. Bigger bore is better, 400 vs 383. Too bad you're not closer, I have 2 400 blocks decked & bored that I ran with cut down 440 cranks that would be reasonably priced. A 400 block, 3.75 stroke or longer with low deck 383/400 rods spins quick & would make good use of today's heads & intakes. The 440 length rods work good too. I think the durability would be good in the 500 HP range if keep the RPM's around 6500. I wish I had done that.

daytona kid · Feb 9, 2015

The last 6 #s of the vin were put on motors assembled 1/1/68 and later, as per law. And yes some motors prior had the #s stamped on top of the bell housing flange. My motor's assembly date stamp is late 67. I just kinda hate the thought of trying to store a block in my already crowded shop. I'll probably go with a 400/512 anyway tho, just a "what if" thought about the 383. And still may also try to get one of the damaged hemis I found fixed for later since that would be a slow/expensive build for me.

mopar 3 B · Feb 9, 2015

What are the number below the head and above frost plugs at the front on the drivers side. 08-16-68 if not date numbers? Date may not be exact just an example 383 block.

GrabberOrange69 · Feb 9, 2015

lewtot184 said:
this is correct. if the block came with the car when it was built then it will have a VIN, mandated by federal law, to much the body VIN. trash the block and it's no longer a numbers matching car.

'68 Cars built prior to 1 Jan 1968: Not all had VINs stamped on the blocks as it wasn't a model year issue, but a calendar year mandate.

daytona kid · Feb 9, 2015

GrabberOrange69 said:
'68 Cars built prior to 1 Jan 1968: Not all had VINs stamped on the blocks as it wasn't a model year issue, but a calendar year mandate.

It's actually a little stranger in my cars case. My motor was assembled in Nov 67 with no vin#s (prior to the mandate), but my car was built/assembled in Jan 68.

- - - Updated - - -

mopar 3 B said:
What are the number below the head and above frost plugs at the front on the drivers side. 08-16-68 if not date numbers? Date may not be exact just an example 383 block.

If they're a date cast in the block, they're the casting date. If they're a date stamped, they're the assembly date. Mine has both of those but no matching last 6 vin #s stamped.

- - - Updated - - -

Here's a good site that explains it.>

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/36.html

opinions on 383/496 stroker

daytona kid

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lewtot184

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daytona kid

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Xp29h

FBBO Gold Member

rumblefish360

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MoparMitch

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lewtot184

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cdr

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Budnicks

Jackstand racer #1 & proud of it, Sir Posts A Lot

lewtot184

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66Satellite47

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daytona kid

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mopar 3 B

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GrabberOrange69

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daytona kid

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