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Big Block Water Pump Housing #2780987

CompSyn

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Want to buy.

Big Block Water Pump Housing P/N #2780987

With date code between 8/24/1968 to 9/10/1968

In good usable shape.
 
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Want to buy.

Big Block Water Pump Housing P/N #2780987

With date code between 8/24/1968 to 9/10/1968

In good usable shape.

I 've got one with the correct casting number but, I don't see a casting date. Is it a code?
Mike
 
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The water pump housing I perceived to be original to my numbers matching engine has 9 3 on it.

My engine assembly date is 9/4/1968.

According to MMC Detroit -> LINK

Two digits can mean Month and Year, or Month and Day

Month and Day would make sense so then is there no way to tell the year?

Another possible clue is my temp sensor has M8 on it. That would seem to indicate December 1968? Could have been changed out? Who knows for sure?
 
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The water pump housing I perceived to be original to my numbers matching engine has 9 3 on it.

My engine assembly date is 9/4/1968.

According to MMC Detroit -> LINK

Two digits can mean Month and Year, or Month and Day

Month and Day would make sense so then is there no way to tell the year?

Another possible clue is my temp sensor has M8 on it. That would seem to indicate December 1968? Could have been changed out? Who knows for sure?
Would engine assembly date and casting date for the housing be the same? I would believe that the casting date should be closer to the block casting date. They both had to be machined before use.
 
Would engine assembly date and casting date for the housing be the same? I would believe that the casting date should be closer to the block casting date. They both had to be machined before use.
I don't believe it would be possible to assemble any engine with a pump cast the day before. Like you mentioned, machining was necessary and logistics must enter into the process also. There is also the "human factor' to consider.
Mike
 
Would engine assembly date and casting date for the housing be the same? I would believe that the casting date should be closer to the block casting date. They both had to be machined before use.

Probably right. The date 8/24/68 found in the OP, is the block casting date.
 
One has to look at all years of WP to see how casting variances occur over time. For instance for the 69 model year, I have noticed that there is a cast in fratzoid on the front of the face. Not on 68's, so when this change occurred takes looking at many housings. Other clue, orange paint, if original means 69 or 70 HP engine. another clue , 70's use a small pipe nipple. Another clue, is placement of the casting number, 69's and up seemed to have it on the outlet portion. Earlier ones are on driver side near pump opening. And finally later housing I seen with full month day and year cast in, earlier ones dont.
Be a scientist, look at a LOT of data before writing the policy paper.
 
One has to look at all years of WP to see how casting variances occur over time. For instance for the 69 model year, I have noticed that there is a cast in fratzoid on the front of the face. Not on 68's, so when this change occurred takes looking at many housings. Other clue, orange paint, if original means 69 or 70 HP engine. another clue , 70's use a small pipe nipple. Another clue, is placement of the casting number, 69's and up seemed to have it on the outlet portion. Earlier ones are on driver side near pump opening. And finally later housing I seen with full month day and year cast in, earlier ones dont.
Be a scientist, look at a LOT of data before writing the policy paper.

Google failed me here. What is a “fratzoid” you refer to?
 
I appreciate the conversation from all here. Perhaps I'm going about this all wrong and need to start over from the beginning and explain why I'm looking for a different water pump housing in the first place. Since we have a great conversation going, maybe there will be other ideas on how to achieve my objective.

I have the original numbers matching 383HP for my 69 Road Runner. I don't believe anyone had taken the engine out before me but it was clear someone did a cam swap years ago hence the newer paint on the timing cover. The newer paint on the intake and valve covers was done by me. Pics and more information below ->

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Below, my pump housing after I cleaned it up and soaked it in Evaporust. From all appearances, it has one thin layer of Hemi orange paint remaining in some spots. Now here's where I admit to my mistake. After all my efforts failed to remove the stubborn heater nipple, I resorted to cut it off. In doing so, the blade got into the housing. This is one of the factors in me looking for a new housing. The other factor is the thermostat gasket surface has some pitting on it. It is both these factors that prompted me to search for a suitable replacement which may be like searching for a needle in a hay stack.

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Ideas? Opinions? Should I continue looking for a replacemnt or is there some way I can repair the one I have? I wondered about welding these problem areas but was told cast iron is very hard to weld. Other ideas we've talked about is brazing or even JB weld. What do you guys think?
 
I blasted the entire pump and still couldn't find anything besides the 2 areas in my first post.
Mike
IMG_1945.JPG
 
'fratzoid' should have said the Chrysler pentastar. fratzoid is the dodge triangle symbol.
 
Since this is more of a fact gathering thread, I moved it to the General Tech.....
 
The top surface under the thermostat can be belt sanded smooth and only your hairdresser would know.
 
I blasted the entire pump and still couldn't find anything besides the 2 areas in my first post.
Mike

Thanks for doing that Mike. What does the thermostat gasket surface look like? Sure wish 5XZZ made some sort of sense to me?
 
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