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Broken K member bolt

dspur

dspur

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After heating and using breaker bar repeatedly and getting it at least over half out, I did this. It felt like it broke loose finally but it just broke.

Impact would not turn it so I applied heat and force with the 1/2” breaker bar.

Apparently rusted in, the other bolt came out with some persuasion and the tip beyond the threads in the k member was deteriorated badly. The frame appears very solid.

I plan to start drilling but open to any suggestions as to how to proceed. The bolt is too recessed to weld a nut on it, don’t wanna weld the k member to the frame lol.

TIA for any solid advice.

IMG_4606.jpeg
 
Get the other three out, drop the frame and then deal with it. Lots of PB Blaster sprayed up through a hole to coat the other bolts threaded ends and work them out carefully.

As for the broken off one, after the K frame is out of the way drop a nut over it.. welded it on good and turn it out.
 
I have cut a window into the side of a rail, removed the old nut and replaced it........ welded it into place and closed the window
 
eldubb440 said:
I have cut a window into the side of a rail, removed the old nut and replaced it........ welded it into place and closed the window
Click to expand...
May be the easiest way Car is on a lift so I guess I’ll be making a stand for the k member / engine. Gonna drill holes small holes at the bolts and saturate with PB blaster from the top.
 
dspur said:
May be the easiest way Car is on a lift so I guess I’ll be making a stand for the k member / engine. Gonna drill holes small holes at the bolts and saturate with PB blaster from the top.
Click to expand...

I'd leave the k member in place to locate the new nut/bolt......... the broken one can be removed through the "window"....... put the new nut/bolt through the K and tighten it up, then weld the nut; or at least tack it into place......if you gonna remove the K anyway, you can use small plug welds from underneath to hold the nut.....keep the nut in the bolt to keep the spatter out, and use a little antiseize when installed permanently
 
If you are going to drill it out, drill a 3/8" hole dead center by center-punching it and start with a 1/8" bit.
Once you drill the guts out with the 3/8" drill, the bolt should collapse somewhat and then "rattle" it with a
punch and hammer while keeping it wet with penetrating oil of some type. Re-tap all of the holes and use
anti-sieze on the bolts.
 
I've had success building up weld on bolts that are deep. Add weld to the center and make it look like a christmas tree. Once you have a good mound then weld the nut on it.
Doug
 
zyzzyx said:
If you are going to drill it out, drill a 3/8" hole dead center by center-punching it and start with a 1/8" bit.
Once you drill the guts out with the 3/8" drill, the bolt should collapse somewhat and then "rattle" it with a
punch and hammer while keeping it wet with penetrating oil of some type. Re-tap all of the holes and use
anti-sieze on the bolts.
Click to expand...
I need to get a tap, know right offhand what size / thread? Thx

Nevermind 5/8”-11
 
dvw said:
I've had success building up weld on bolts that are deep. Add weld to the center and make it look like a christmas tree. Once you have a good mound then weld the nut on it.
Doug
Click to expand...
100%. Usually I'll weld a washer to the built up nub, then a nut to that welded on the outer perimeter
 
Mine done the same thing. I drilled through the center to just short of tap drill size then used a hacksaw blade to split it and collapse the remains..
 
Flint said:
Mine done the same thing. I drilled through the center to just short of tap drill size then used a hacksaw blade to split it and collapse the remains..
Click to expand...
I have drill all the way through the bolt, just short of 3/8’s bit but hacksaw blade won’t fit. What am I missing? Thanks
 
dspur said:
I have drill all the way through the bolt, just short of 3/8’s bit but hacksaw blade won’t fit. What am I missing? Thanks
Click to expand...
If you are fairly on center go to the largest drill bit you can,not to exceed actual tap drill size. You should be able to eyeball how on center you are. If you got it off to one side and are at the root of the female thread grind the blade to fit. Using a caping chisel or punch concentrate on the side and direction that will loosen it. It will probably come out in pieces but you will get it. Chase all of them with a tap after words.
 
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