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63' Tapered axle 8-3/4 question

rpmmachineco

rpmmachineco

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So I'm building a low buck hot rod out of an old 63 dodge 330 wagon. I did not realize until today that it has the tapered axle rear.. Its an 8-3/4. I searched the web a little and really couldn't find a definitive answer to my questions so here goes, I'll ask you guys. I have a good 3rd member from a later 8-3/4 the 742 housing with a posi unit. and 3.23 gears. Is this a direct swap in my housing? 2nd- most say to replace the rear, that it will not hold any hp. I'm building a 440, I believe it should make 450hp, I know the org, 62-63 max wedge cars used this rear didn't they? Also, if I do replace the housing with an 8-3/4 flange axle rear, what rear should I be hunting from what model car? Some say look for an A-body rear others say late model B body rear is a direct bolt in? I just want to make sure if I really need to swap the rear, and If I do, what will make the easiest bolt in swap? Thanks guys.
 
The different center sections will swap. If you have an open rear now and use a limited slip you'll need the shorter axles. They're not that much shorter, the ends of the open rear axles can be machined or even ground off. The amount taken off slips my mind at the moment.
 
Section 1: Thrust Block Variations
There was a difference in thrust blocks prior to 1964 that make center section interchange, as well as axle interchange problematic. The thrust block, or “axle shaft thrust spacer”, it thr block that both left and right axles butt up against inside the center of the differential. Prior to 1964, all open differentials used a thrust block was approximately 1/8″ to 1/4″ thicker than units made after 1964. The Sure Grip thrust block prior to 1964, however, was indentical to all 1964 and later Sure Grips and open differentials. In 1964, the thrust block width was changed to match the Sure Grip thrust block width.

This difference in thrust blocks between Sure Grip differentials and open differentials required that two different axles be produced for each 8-3/4″ housing manufactured. This is true of all 1959-1963 cars with 8-3/4″s.

Guide to the Chrysler 8-3/4″ rear axle
 
Do yourself a favour and ditch the tapered axle rear end for a later one I have swapped in a later 1969 B-body for both the '64's I have owned. It is a straight bolt-in, if you use your '64 E-brake cables. The '66-'67 rear end is slightly narrower, like a '63, and will allow larger tires. Rear gear swaps and brake work are much easier with these one-piece axle rear ends.
A-body rear ends require moving the axle mounting pads.
 
Dave6T4 said:
Do yourself a favour and ditch the tapered axle rear end for a later one I have swapped in a later 1969 B-body for both the '64's I have owned. It is a straight bolt-in, if you use your '64 E-brake cables. The '66-'67 rear end is slightly narrower, like a '63, and will allow larger tires. Rear gear swaps and brake work are much easier with these one-piece axle rear ends.
A-body rear ends require moving the axle mounting pads.
Click to expand...

'62 and '63 have the narrowest housings of all the B body's. 1964 being the widest. I've seen '64 and newer axel housings under the '62-'63s. You have to use a stock wheel or even a reversed wheel.
 
'64 Max Wedge cars used the narrower '63 rearend, from the factory, to allow larger tires.
 
They are plenty stong enough for your application. You can cut down the axles with a $10 9" diameter cut off wheel from Lowes mounted in a mitre saw. You have to go slowly. It'll take 5-10 minutes to get thru it. Or you can install aftermarket axles. If you swap to a later housing they are a touch wider. So keep that in mind. The tapered axles are a pain to work on. Hub removal can be tough even with the right tool.
Doug
 
khryslerkid said:
I changed mine over to flanged axles. Bought them from Dr. Diff.
Click to expand...
Ditto on my 62, along with 11" drum brake package.
Nothing wrong with the 62-63 housing, just swap in new flange axles and they'll also accept 65 and up drum brakes (tapered axle backing plates are slightly different).

64 is too wide, imo, just swapped out my 64 rear with a later one.
 
Hey Guys a Big thanks for all the replies! That's great they make a kit to swap to a flange axle. I really wanted to keep the OEM rear. I believe a call to Dr. Diff is in my future, but for the time being I may just shorten the axles and run my sure grip 3rd member. I do plan on running slicks, so would be nice to have some new axles with long 1/2 wheel studs too.
 
rpmmachineco said:
2nd- most say to replace the rear, that it will not hold any hp.
Click to expand...
Anymore, this seems (to me) like asking what WW1 was like...... no one knows anymore. It seems like 98% of all Mopar owners go '65 and later just cuz everyone says to. Granted it does make some things easier. Anyway, I built mine (64) old school with tapered axles and a 742 cased grip. If i ever get my 426 together, weel see what it can handle. :carrot:
 
Last edited:
I do not think it is a question of the tapered axle rear ends being weak or failure-prone. They are just a general PITA to work on, compared to later ones. Especially if you arranging centre sections often.
 
I don't think changing the housing is necessary. You may find this helpful:
www.forbbodiesonly.com

Converting early taper axles/hubs to use later removable brake drums and all RH lug studs.

Hey guys, I am seeing posts about changing rear ends on early B bodies with the old style taper axles. I considered making that change, but, since nothing is really wrong with my original rear end, I didn't want to go through the work and expense to do it. However, I am in process of a front...
www.forbbodiesonly.com www.forbbodiesonly.com
 
Dave6T4 said:
I do not think it is a question of the tapered axle rear ends being weak or failure-prone. They are just a general PITA to work on, compared to later ones. Especially if you arranging centre sections often.
Click to expand...
Actually, I think the biggest hurdle is being the first to remove the drums on the car and coughing up the few bucks to buy a drum puller for a one-time use.

You can borrow one from a friend, as they can't be much in demand anymore.
 
Also the shimming part. I haven't done it and wouldn't want to.
 
RemCharger said:
Also the shimming part. I haven't done it and wouldn't want to.
Click to expand...
Shimming was not difficult at all. However, there are no shims to be found that i know of..... You would need some extra junkers laying around to snag parts off of.
 
A 5/8" hole saw without the center drill bit will cut through the swedges on the drum. Drill just through the drum, just over 1/16". Then the drum will slide off. Then you can remove the axles. No need for the puller. If you want to add long studs this would be the time.
Doug
 
Exactly how many times does anyone actually do repairs on the early rears?

Not often, if ever, would be my guess.

I had a '47 Plymouth that had a 360 in it mated to a stock manual trans and rear axle.

The guy I bought it from did the motor install 30 years ago... never broke anything except worn brske shoes.

I never drove the I just flipped it but some guys get skeered of stuff they hear from strangers.
 
Krooser said:
but some guys get skeered of stuff they hear from strangers
Click to expand...
I hear the ball & trunnion driveshaft joint is scary, yet it has been in my 64 for decades, many of those with a ripped boot.
Never heard of one fail in a Max Wedge car.
 
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