Need Input On 360 Build

I’m rebuilding the 360 that was in my 72 charger. I shooting for a mild performance build that brings the life out of the engine without completely killing my wallet. I need help with cam and carb selection. This is my first engine build/rebuild.

I’m looking to use the comp cams 20-214-4 camshaft and a Holley 4150 650cfm double pumper. Are these wise choices?

The specs I’m working with are as follows:

Block:
-casting number 4179930
-block has a deck clearance of 0.005”

Crank:
-looks to be factory cast crank
-casting number 402716(9)

Heads:
-casting number 3418915B
-2.02” intake
-1.60” exhaust
-max valve lift looks to be around 0.472”
-head volume of 69cc
-stock stamped rockers

Intake:
-Edelbrock performer rpm dual plane

Pistons & Rods:
-Speed pro hypereutectic H116CP
-Rods have casting number 3418645

From some calculations, it appears I’m making roughly a 9.7:1 compression ratio, which is where I’d like to be.

I appreciate everyone’s wisdom, as my engine experience comes from Google and the gas pedal.

I can't help with the motor specs but I can say the Holley 650 D/P is the best carb I've had on my similar cubic inch poly stroker. Better than a Holley 600 Vac Sec and better than an Edelbrock 650 AVS2.

Whiplash72 said:

I’m rebuilding the 360 that was in my 72 charger. I shooting for a mild performance build that brings the life out of the engine without completely killing my wallet. I need help with cam and carb selection. This is my first engine build/rebuild.

I’m looking to use the comp cams 20-214-4 camshaft and a Holley 4150 650cfm double pumper. Are these wise choices?

The specs I’m working with are as follows:

Block:
-casting number 4179930
-block has a deck clearance of 0.005”

Crank:
-looks to be factory cast crank
-casting number 402716(9)

Heads:
-casting number 3418915B
-2.02” intake
-1.60” exhaust
-max valve lift looks to be around 0.472”
-head volume of 69cc
-stock stamped rockers

Intake:
-Edelbrock performer rpm dual plane

Pistons & Rods:
-Speed pro hypereutectic H116CP
-Rods have casting number 3418645

From some calculations, it appears I’m making roughly a 9.7:1 compression ratio, which is where I’d like to be.

I appreciate everyone’s wisdom, as my engine experience comes from Google and the gas pedal.

Click to expand...

If you want a Comp Cam I would use the 20-223-3 Extreme. The extra help on the exhaust side is most always good on this type of build.

good choice of pistons, i have them and love the performance. it woke my 360 up big time.

Thermoquad.

You say the block has a deck clearance of 0.005" - was the block zero decked?
Factory blocks had quite a bit of deck in them, typically around 0.090"

My Challenger 360; ported later 360 heads with 2.02 int, LD340 (similar to your RPM intake), 650 dp Holley, Crane 220 hyd roller w/1.6 Crane rockers, measured 9.0-1 compression, TTI headers and 2 1/2" exh, 3.55, 4 speed. It has run 12.70@109 with drag radials. Runs on 87 octane.
Doug

WileE said:

Thermoquad.

Click to expand...

Wouldn't the OP be better off with something that can still be bought new, is a simple design and parts are available from the local store? It's his first engine build after all.

You actual driving style and type really affects parts choice.
A drag car is pedal down.
Normal city highways driving is much different
D/P carb is really not needed on the street.
If your driving is mainly around town, A rear gear change gives you the most bang for the buck and seat of the pants performance.

Whiplash72 said:

I’m rebuilding the 360 that was in my 72 charger. I shooting for a mild performance build that brings the life out of the engine without completely killing my wallet. I need help with cam and carb selection. This is my first engine build/rebuild.

I’m looking to use the comp cams 20-214-4 camshaft and a Holley 4150 650cfm double pumper. Are these wise choices?

The specs I’m working with are as follows:

Block:
-casting number 4179930
-block has a deck clearance of 0.005”

Crank:
-looks to be factory cast crank
-casting number 402716(9)

Heads:
-casting number 3418915B
-2.02” intake
-1.60” exhaust
-max valve lift looks to be around 0.472”
-head volume of 69cc
-stock stamped rockers

Intake:
-Edelbrock performer rpm dual plane

Pistons & Rods:
-Speed pro hypereutectic H116CP
-Rods have casting number 3418645

From some calculations, it appears I’m making roughly a 9.7:1 compression ratio, which is where I’d like to be.

I appreciate everyone’s wisdom, as my engine experience comes from Google and the gas pedal.

Click to expand...

well only thing I will say is don't use a flat tappet camshaft, they go flat more than not. The duration and center line of the cam you picked is good for your application, but you can convert to a hydraulic roller and with the same duration get over .500 lift and pick up about 40 ft lbs of torque, built serval like this for street cars. And I usually do the 408 stroker kit and wind up with around 425HP on pump gas.

Whiplash72 said:

I’m rebuilding the 360 that was in my 72 charger. I shooting for a mild performance build that brings the life out of the engine without completely killing my wallet. I need help with cam and carb selection. This is my first engine build/rebuild.

I’m looking to use the comp cams 20-214-4 camshaft and a Holley 4150 650cfm double pumper. Are these wise choices?

The specs I’m working with are as follows:

Block:
-casting number 4179930
-block has a deck clearance of 0.005”

Crank:
-looks to be factory cast crank
-casting number 402716(9)

Heads:
-casting number 3418915B
-2.02” intake
-1.60” exhaust
-max valve lift looks to be around 0.472”
-head volume of 69cc
-stock stamped rockers

Intake:
-Edelbrock performer rpm dual plane

Pistons & Rods:
-Speed pro hypereutectic H116CP
-Rods have casting number 3418645

From some calculations, it appears I’m making roughly a 9.7:1 compression ratio, which is where I’d like to be.

I appreciate everyone’s wisdom, as my engine experience comes from Google and the gas pedal.

Click to expand...

Perhaps you should wait a little longer, accumulate more $$$, and do it correctly, measuring and recording all dimensions, bore or honest the block, balance the rotating mass, and talk with several cam vendors, head suppliers about what your intentions are. What transmission?? What rear end gear? A/C or not, car weight, headers or no..... IMO.... 650 cfm Holley with vacuum secondary butterfly valves or equilivant old style Carter AVS would be better.......what do you intend to do with the car.....street, street/strip or strip only.....pick a category and design accordingly.....btw....what's the budget????........$10k or $5k or $7500k or $1500k????........just curious.....
BOB RENTON

66 Sat said:

Wouldn't the OP be better off with something that can still be bought new, is a simple design and parts are available from the local store? It's his first engine build after all.

Click to expand...

I'd rather a reman TQ vs. some new junk that's been mis-assembled by whoever in what country.

HemiSuperBee:​

Thank you for the recommendation on the Comp Cams 20-223-3 Extreme. Makes sense having the extra help on the exhaust side. I just need to check my valve clearances.

71Beeper:​

I unfortunately don't have the specific history on this engine from the previous owner other than the fact that it was rebuilt along with the transmission. As you stated, I very much believe the block was zero decked. I also forgot to add that the cylinders are 0.030" over.

dvw:​

Thank you for your build specs, it's always great to hear peoples setups as I plan out my own!

66 Sat:​

Thank you for you input on the Holley carb! I agree with new, local parts. Since it is my first build, it helps me limit the number potential failures. It would be fun to slap a thermoquad on there, but I'm still gaining experience and don't want to dive straight into the deep end.

MoparLeo:​

Totally understand the environment and use case has a big influence on part selection. I'm aiming for a more street/strip setup, even though the likelihood of this car seeing the strip is small for now. It will spend a lot of time on the highway based on my location. I need to figure out what gears are in the rear end. I was never blessed with that info from the previous owner. I will say the gears in it currently had me turning about 4200 rpm when cruising around 70 mph on the highway.

Rebelrouser:​

I was looking to go with a hydraulic flat tappet. I like its simplicity and I feel for this application is good. Rollers are great, but I feel for this scenario they just introduce more potential failure points. I don't plan on sustaining WOT or very high RPMs for long durations (such as circuit racing). I really appreciate your feedback and I still plan to research some roller camshafts. Do you have any personal favorites in this category?

RJRENTON:​

My budget is roughly $2,500 but it isn't firm. I'm willing to spend the extra bucks where it makes sense. I'm reusing the pistons, rods, crank, heads, intake, rocker assembly (could be convinced for some new ones), oil pan, and maybe the pushrods. The block was cleaned, honed and measured. I got a new oil pump and pickup tube, rings, and bearings so far. The rotating assembly is back in the engine and I plastigauged it all and it came out right on spec. Application is street strip. The rest of the car is a stock 72' charger. No A/C (which sucks in Texas but it isn't a daily). There were long tube headers on the car when I got it, but they were ratty and crushed in some areas because they were the lowest point of the car. With that being said I'm getting new ones that will fit better if possible or go to a medium length. It's got a 727 in it but I don't know what the current stall torque is. I will need to look at it and see what I can find.
My intentions are to do it correctly, otherwise I'm wasting money. That is why I wanted to reach out on here and make sure I'm not completely out of sorts on my build. I know there are infinite ways to build an engine, and everyone has there own preferences/experiences. I just don't want to make simple mistakes and brick an engine before I can have fun with it.

WileE said:

I'd rather a reman TQ vs. some new junk that's been mis-assembled by whoever in what country.

Click to expand...

Well I would hope that the carb was at least assembled in Bowling Green Kentucky but I pulled it apart, checked it and re-assembled myself anyway. There were no issues.

Rebelrouser said:

well only thing I will say is don't use a flat tappet camshaft, they go flat more than not.

Click to expand...

Nobody that I know that currently has a classic car has had a camshaft failure except me.
Yeah, there are lots of stories of cams and lifters failing but they are not the majority. I have had numerous mild to moderate V8s with reasonable valve spring pressures live just fine with flat tappet cams.

Kern Dog said:

View attachment 1868528

Nobody that I know that currently has a classic car has had a camshaft failure except me.
Yeah, there are lots of stories of cams and lifters failing but they are not the majority. I have had numerous mild to moderate V8s with reasonable valve spring pressures live just fine with flat tappet cams.

Click to expand...

Agreed. Been building for almost 50 years. With the cam you are looking at spring pressure will be 130ish seat and mid 200 over the nose. Use a light spring for break in. A BR type oil. After use a good oil such as Gibbs Hot Rod, VR1, ect and you will be fine.

looks good. make sure to use matching valve springs

Thank you all for your wisdom and recommendations!

I’ll send updates in here of the build and hope to share some fun news once it’s back in the charger.