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Rebuilt 727 shifts but no downshift

you need that pressure increase throughout the full lever movement. If you just go by just having the lever full movement, you might only have 1/2 or 3/4 pressure, you need full pressure to get the kick down to work properly. That's why I said you need an increase in pressure as soon as you hit the throttle and as the lever moves the pressure increases over the full swing of the lever
I believe this was my problem, no meaningful pressure increase until more than 1/2 throttle which caused all sorts of part throttle drivability issues. The thing would shift to 3rd by 20 mph and would never kick down
 
Putting the cart before the horse. Adjustment doesn't mean a thing if the throttle pressure doesn't increase with lever movement. If the pressure goes over 100psi with the lever back? Then it's most likely an adjustment issue. If the pressure is low? The valve could be stuck, valve installed incorrectly, valve body cracked, weld on the throttle shaft broken. Early soft shifts indicate low throttle pressure.
Doug
I agree with everything you said, but what I’m trying to get across is if you don't have pressure right from the moment you're pressing the throttle; even if you fix all those problems you mentioned, you are going to have trouble. With the trans in gear, the pressure should start to rise as soon as the throttle is opened.
 
Now for my dumb question of the day- when i test the throttle pressure, what position should the shifter be in?
 
I would put the car on jack stands, put the car in high gear and check to see if the pressure rises as so as you press the throttle, if it does you have it adjusted correctly. With the car off, check to see if you have the lever fully to the back when the carb is fully open. You should have the partial and wide open kick down working now. Take the car for a spin, see if you have partial and full throttle kick down, if not you have other problems. If the 1-2,2-3 shift points are where you want them, great, if not, then you can play with the adjustment a little to get them where you want them.
 
I agree with everything you said, but what I’m trying to get across is if you don't have pressure right from the moment you're pressing the throttle; even if you fix all those problems you mentioned, you are going to have trouble. With the trans in gear, the pressure should start to rise as soon as the throttle is opened.
Pressure never rises with the crack of the throttle. The lever moves quite a bit before the cam on the throttle shaft ever contacts the throttle valve.
Doug
 
Pressure never rises with the crack of the throttle. The lever moves quite a bit before the cam on the throttle shaft ever contacts the throttle valve.
Doug
With the trans in gear, the pressure should start to rise as soon as the throttle is opened. This assumes that the trans lever starts to move rearward with the throttle movement...there is no lost motion.
 
Pressure never rises with the crack of the throttle. The lever moves quite a bit before the cam on the throttle shaft ever contacts the throttle valve.
Doug
Have to agree with the above, there’s at least 1/4 travel before the throttle pressure valve gets into play on the VB.
 
Have to agree with the above, there’s at least 1/4 travel before the throttle pressure valve gets into play on the VB.
I've always adjusted the kick down this way

This is from the Hot Rod article. The lowdown on stock Torqueflite kick-down. Check post #46

"If you adjust the cable so the lever is at the front of its travel range at idle, the line pressure will not increase properly as the throttle increases," Jason Muckala of Motech Performance explains. "This makes the trans shift too early, and it can cause the clutches to slip and destroy the transmission. I've seen people install springs to hold the lever forward, but it's not supposed to stay in that position at idle." This photo shows the lever full forward; in this portion of the lever's arc you can feel no pushback from the lever, an indication that no increase in line pressure is occurring.

Somewhere in this range of the lever's arc, you can feel a slight resistance from the lever's internal spring. This is where the line pressure begins to rise, ultimately causing a downshift. Properly dialing in the lever's range of motion is critical to shift performance and transmission longevity.

For the first half of its travel range, there is very little resistance and the lever does nothing. At the halfway point, you can feel where it starts to hit the valve inside the trans, and that's the position the lever must be in at idle."
 
I've always adjusted the kick down this way

This is from the Hot Rod article. The lowdown on stock Torqueflite kick-down. Check post #46

"If you adjust the cable so the lever is at the front of its travel range at idle, the line pressure will not increase properly as the throttle increases," Jason Muckala of Motech Performance explains. "This makes the trans shift too early, and it can cause the clutches to slip and destroy the transmission. I've seen people install springs to hold the lever forward, but it's not supposed to stay in that position at idle." This photo shows the lever full forward; in this portion of the lever's arc you can feel no pushback from the lever, an indication that no increase in line pressure is occurring.

Somewhere in this range of the lever's arc, you can feel a slight resistance from the lever's internal spring. This is where the line pressure begins to rise, ultimately causing a downshift. Properly dialing in the lever's range of motion is critical to shift performance and transmission longevity.

For the first half of its travel range, there is very little resistance and the lever does nothing. At the halfway point, you can feel where it starts to hit the valve inside the trans, and that's the position the lever must be in at idle."

Here is a picture of stock factory linkage. You will see the green spring holding the linkage forward against the carb stud in the closed throttle posistion. At this point the KD lever is full forward at the trans. Granted minor adjustments can be made. But during low throttle opening no additional throttle pressure is called for or used.
Doug




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Doug, I have my car set up the same way as your picture, but I have it adjusted like the way the Hot Rod article says, so when you open the throttle, pressure starts right away. In the 1970 Dodge Factory manual for a 383 motor with 3.55 gears, it states closed throttle shift point 1-2 are 6-10 mph and 2-3 are 10-14 mph. which I find very soft. My shift point 1-2 happens at around 20 and 2-3 is at 30. Nothing wrong with the way the factory has it set up, it works just fine, they do it that way to please everybody (grannies to the average guy). I've had friends that shave a little off their governor to raise their shift points, that's another way of doing it. When you raise the hp of a motor, which most guys like us do, increasing the throttle pressure right when you press the throttle it helps the transmission live longer, as the clutches will be slipping less on the shifts.
 
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